Urethane ran down floor slope and globbed up - DIY Chatroom

xylitol1 · 10-27-2009, 03:28 PM

I f'd up the urethane... used "Stays Clear" from ben moore. I layed it down as I had done on a flat surface but the slope of the floor caused a run... the urethane made run lines and pooled up. Now I am trying to figure out how to fix it.

Problem is, regular sanding tends to gum up the urethane, people have recommended a heat gun to smooth or maybe shaving it down with a wood shaver. I attached a photo that I think gives the idea. Eventhough it looks wet, it is not, but it has not cured either. When cured it will likely be a raised, clear bump.

Please no negative comments, I know this is really bad already.

RegeSullivan · 10-27-2009, 08:02 PM

I'd let it dry to see how bad it looks cause it just might not be noticeable. When the liquid evaporates out the bump will not be as high so it might look OK. If you are the only one that can see it and not one else does - just leave it alone. If it is an eyesore I would try a razor blade to shave or plane it down a little and hit it with 0 or 00 steel wool before the next coat. If it is water base urethane DO NOT use steel wool, use a fine Scotch Brite pad.

Be sure you are using a quality pad to spread the urethane and keep it flat and pull or push in one direction using slow even strokes. It should eliminate those lines you are getting.

Rege

xylitol1 · 10-28-2009, 03:19 AM

That is good advice, thank you. U think I can use a plane (power hand plane or u think a hand one will cut right through?) Is the scotchbrite pad (yes, it is water) for the purpose of scuffing the surface to get some more bonding surface area? What do you think would happen if I went over the surface with a power sander, maybe 80 or 120... think it might gum up...

Thanks again.

RegeSullivan · 10-28-2009, 10:29 AM

No - do not use a plane or power plane. I am assuming this is just one little spot. So, my suggestion was to use a single edge razor blade to gently scrape it or use it like a little plane and shave the hump off. Do not sand it at this point. If you really need to sand it let it harden a few weeks or months and start over. The reason to hit it with the Scotch Brite is to even out any marks from the scraping you just did with the razor blade.

In case you are tempted to use steel wool - it will make little rust marks in the finish because as does any abrasive it leaves little bits or traces behind that get embedded in the finish and oxidize over time.

I am curious what you used to apply the finish?

Rege

p.s. I didn't get into applying the second and third coats... But follow the manufacture recommendation. It most likely will suggest a light sanding with a Scotch Brite type pad between applications.

retired guy 60 · 10-28-2009, 10:53 AM

I agree, no plane or power plane. Use a paint scraper, the style that works best when you pull the blade across the surface. Then when the polyurethane is fully dry, as previously suggested, use a hand held random orbit sander to smooth over the surface using progressively finer paper. Finally, you may need to put a thin coat of polyurethane over the sanded portion to further refine the repair and make it blend in better. Even pros sometimes leave thicker coatings in spots. It is repairable.

lawndart · 10-29-2009, 12:12 PM

Wait for the poly to fully cure, then use a paint scraper like it was suggested above to pull off the excess poly. After that sand with a fine sand paper like 150-220 grit to a smooth finish.

After you have sanded it down apply blue painters tape around the area covering the boards in the immediate area that are good, leaving only the bad area exposed, and brush on another coat in that area. Let it dry then remove the tape. That should do the trick.

Looks like you used water based poly, am I right?

pinwheel45 · 10-29-2009, 12:52 PM

A sharp cabinet scraper will work well to. Only advice I could add, or clarify to what lawndart & the others have posted, is to get all the affected boards smoothed & just refinish them, being sure to cut into all the straight edges of each affected board.

skymaster · 10-29-2009, 01:58 PM

A Stanley scraper that uses utility knife blades is what I use. Agree with everybody let it cure,NO POWER plane! Using the razor ( utility) knife allows you to shear cleanly and even with the surface. Scotchbrite uber allus.
Another neat trick is this, you can actually buff out the poly with a pc of terry towel, make up a pad of it and really rub it, I was surprised but it really works. Dont ask why I found this out