Two questions for T&G flooring

Mark Harvey

The project is an old Railway Station, not heated and not totally weather proof. We are in Alberta Canada. First question, what should I use between the existion subfloor (3/4" thick planking) and the new flooring? Plastic, building paper, foam, etc.?
Second, as I know wood shrinks and expands with temperature,what is the best time of year to install the new floor. (1x4 T&G Fir).
Thanks.

cocobolo

Mark, over the past few years there have been a couple of such renovations done on the old stations on Vancouver Island.

Will this be used as a residence for someone? Or is it a renovation to save the station?

The first thing you will need to do is to address the weatherproof situation, particularly if there is water reaching the floor.

Let us know and we can help you from there.

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Mark Harvey

Station is only a show piece in a small town museum ... so no dwelling. No plumbing or electricity or any other modern day features. Roof is sound but with the current reno, a very small amount of snow has blown in. This will be fixed as windows & doors are adjusted. Strictly for show during spring, summer and early fall.
Thanks for any suggestions recommendations.
Mark

cocobolo

Sounds like what they did out this way...one of them is a small railway museum now.

Will it be heated in some way? If that is the case you will want to put a vapour barrier on the floor first. If it's just for the warm season - as I think you are suggesting - then perhaps the v/b isn't so important.

Whether or not you opt for a v/b, in which case 6 mil poly will work, install 15 lb. roofing felt over that. It is really just very heavy tarpaper which will serve the dual purpose of preventing squeaking between the two wood floors, and if you use poly, it will protect that during installation of the floor.

You are probably safe to install the floor when the weather is warm enough to work comfortably inside, perhaps end of March/April.

The advantage of 1 x 4 T & G is that it is narrow, and any wood movement will be very limited. Just use the regular T & G flooring nailer and staples, and the job will be done quickly.

How about posting some pics of the project if you get the chance?

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Mark Harvey

Thanks for the information. And yes to the pictures. I will do ... fairly soon.
Where in the Gulf Islands are you? I have a brother on Mayne Island.

cocobolo

That means he's not terribly far south of us.

We are on Ruxton Island, which you most likely have never heard of.

Opposite us is Valdez Island (to the east) then just follow down about 15 miles or so, maybe a bit more, and you get to Mayne.

Small world huh? And we have relatives in Calgary!

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Mark Harvey

You really like the remote life, don't you? I checked Ruxton and it looks great. Not quite the size of Austrailia or Alberta but that's ones preference.
Back to the station, why do you suggest both the poly and the #15 building paper? It currently has some tar paper ... from way back when. Is the poly just for extra protection or ???
Thanks.

cocobolo

You would only need the poly as a vapour barrier. If the building won't be heated, then it wouldn't be of much value. If at some time in the future you anticipate adding auxiliary heat, then perhaps it would be worthwhile. It wouldn't add much to the cost anyway.

I think currently a 2,000 square foot roll runs around $80 or so out this way.

Something else to consider...is there a crawl space under the floor? If I remember rightly, the small stations out here which were done had about 4 feet of crawl space. If the exterior walls sit right on a decent foundation, that area should stay dry. If there is any chance of water running beneath the floor - in the case of heavy rain for instance - then the v/b might be well worthwhile.

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Mark Harvey

Thanks again. Makes sense. Take care.

Floor Doc

We have crawl spaces in the states that have dirt for the floor . if that is the case you will want to cover it with a 10 Mil polly and ride it up the wall 4" and seal the edges with a silicone adhesive .