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projectpete19 03-07-2014 07:48 AM

Transition from tile to laminate without t-bar
3 Attachment(s)

I am planning on replacing this ugly click cork flooring in my kitchen with ceramic tile. I have recently re-done my main floor with linage flooring.

The two floors will have the same height so my question is what can I use for a transition other than a t-bar?

I used the t-bar for the transition to the bathroom and I don't mind it too much there because there is a door, my kitchen has two wide openings and I don't like the look of the t-bar for that application.

Some thoughts I had are below, wondering if anyone has done it another way and could let me know the results over time:

- use a metal edge piece that is usually used when you tile a wall?

- use a 2" or 3" tile strip in between tile an laminate, but how would leave the space where the tile meets the laminate?

Attachment 82305Attachment 82306Attachment 82307Attachment 82308

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joecaption 03-07-2014 08:22 AM

Laminate needs room for expansion and contraction, if not it's going to buckle or pull apart. One of those metal strips will hold it down to tight.
Sure looks like you did not leave any room where it meets that wall.

projectpete19 03-07-2014 08:28 AM

It doesn't show well in the pic but there is between 1/8" - 1/4" space.

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rusty baker 03-07-2014 11:55 AM

Picture ads cover too much of your post for me to read it.

projectpete19 03-07-2014 12:13 PM

hi rusty,

the gist of the post is that i have a<br>
transition from laminate to ceramic<br>
tile that i will be putting in and i <br>
dont want to use a t-bar for <br>
aesthetic purposes and i dont want<br>
anything raised. i was looking<br>
for suggestions for other options<br>
for transitions.<br>

hope you can read this one

poppameth 03-08-2014 08:48 AM

Are you sure they will be the same height? In the photos it looks like you have a plywood subfloor. You need to add an uncoupling membrane like Ditra to this before tiling. That adds an 1/8 of an inch. You also have the thinset to consider. Putting Ditra down with a loose mix and the tile on top with a heavier mix will probably add at least 3/16. A lot of tile now is anywhere from 1/4 to 3/8 thickness. Unless you are planning to make a big mistake by setting tile directly to the plywood then I think your ceramic is going to come out higher than you think. Which might be a good thing. Schluter makes a few different offset reducers in various metal finishes that may work just fine for your application. The Reno-V for example is meant for tile to carpet transition. It has a moveable leg on one side that adjusts to the carpet or in your case the laminate height that abuts the tile. If it does come out exactly even you could use the Reno-T. This is still a T-molding but at least it's metal and comes in a couple different finishes.

projectpete19 03-08-2014 10:27 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks poppameth, I was planning on using wire mesh and thunder the same way my bathroom was done about 6 years ago (I did not lay the tile in the bathroom but I can see where the floor vent is they used wire). The laminate is perfectly even with that.

My subfloor is the original 1x3 strips with a 1/2" plywood on top of that.

The photo I have included is my subfloor under the linage but it is the same in the kitchen

Attachment 82339

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projectpete19 03-08-2014 12:06 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Also since I already have a pretty sturdy subfloor if wire mesh and thinset isn't advisable is this fiberock sufficient?
Attachment 82340

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poppameth 03-09-2014 09:17 AM

You can use the fiberock. It's cheaper. The ditra is a better system and easier to work with.

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