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-   -   TrafficMaster grout f.y.i. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/trafficmaster-grout-f-y-i-2136/)

denman 03-27-2006 05:56 PM

TrafficMaster grout f.y.i.
 
In the event you use TrafficMaster grout and you have a residual film on your tiles that you have been completely unable to remove, please read and consider the only thing that worked for me. I am going through the trouble of writing this very long reply to sites mentioning a problem with TrafficMaster grout because I had tried everything and had almost given up. First, I want to "cover my rear" and mention a few things. The only way that I was finally able to remove the residual film from my tiles involves a specific process and chemicals that require proper ventilation and safety wear. The process is fairly simple, once explained. Everything you need is inexpensive and can be bought at your local Walmart and the building supply store that you bought the grout at. The basic concept is to clean the tiles, liquify the film, remove it before it has a chance to gum up again, completely remove both chemical and film residue from the tiles and grout. The list of things needed to do this should also include a small fan. Windows should be opened and use a low speed on the fan, far enough away from your work (electrical shock hazard) and so as not to cause the chemicals to evaporate too quickly thus allowing the film to gum up before you can remove it. Read the precautions, work safely and don't try to do too much at one time. I am not trying to scare anyone, I just cannot be responsible for what someone else does or does not do when cleaning chemicals are involved. My tiles are now shinny and beautiful again but since I did not try it on every type of tile, I suggest you try this out on one tile off in a corner or something. O.K. enough of covering my rear and on to the list of what you will need and exactly how to do it. A super Walmart (with a grocery section) would be my first stop because they were cheaper on some of the needed items. What you don't find there, you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. Lastly, I found that it was best to go with non colored sponges, white towels and scrub brushes because colors tend to "bleed" onto your work. Some of the items, you probably already have at home.

Walmart/grocery store
nitrile gloves; given "good" chemical resistance recomendation for working with xylene (Goof Off) I found them in an inexpensive 12 pack (you will go through them)
1qt. metal bowl or other stable metal container
small white towel
large sponge
mop bucket
mop
6in. plastic bristle scrub brush
4in. plastic scrub brush with handle and 1/2in. white bristles (short bristles worked better, handle keeps gloves away from Goof Off, small size uses less Goof Off)

building supply store
1gal. Simple Green (degreaser and cleaner)
32oz. sprayer
16oz. can Goof Off (two for large kitchen/breakfast area)
eye protection (something to protect from any chemical splash)

Set up
fill sprayer with Simple Green
fill mop bucket with hot soapy water (I used dishwashing liquid)
put sponge and 6in. scrub brush in mop bucket (keep in bucket when not using)
place fan away from the work area, turn on low and aim so that you get just enough air to avoid fumes
put on gloves and eye protection first, then pour a small amount of Goof Off in metal bowl (just enough to wet the 4in. brush bristles about half way) put lid back on can.
have 4in brush and the towel handy

First, read this completely to get the process in your head because it is best to quickly follow the use of Goof Off with the next steps. I found that I could only successfully work two 12in tiles at a time due to evaporation time. Spray tiles and grout with Simple Green and use the hot soapy water and the 6in. scrub brush to clean both the tiles and grout of any removeable grime. Next, wring out the sponge and wipe tiles and grout. Use the towel to remove any excess water (water dilutes the Goof Off and reduces it's effectiveness). As needed, soak and wring out towel in mop bucket. Dip the 4in. scrub brush in the metal bowl containing just enough Goof Off to wet the bristles about half way. The idea of how much Goof Off to put in the bowl is based on not wanting to use any more than necessary and to use the handle to try and keep it off the gloves because it can desolve them (replace with a new pair as needed-they are cheap and safety is important). I dipped the gloves in the mop bucket and wiped them with the towel often). Let some of the Goof Off drip off the scrub brush back into the metal bowl, then scrub tiles in tight circular motions till clean (tiles should have just enough Goof Off on them to look wet (shiny) when done scrubbing (being carefull not to fling any Goof Off on you or anything other than your tile floor). I always placed the 4in brush on an uncleaned tile after scrubbing with Goof Off instead of back in the metal bowl so that the Goof Off didn't soften the bristles. Immediatly after scrubbing with Goof Off, spray the tiles and grout again with Simple Green, scrub tiles and grout (using the hot soapy water and 6in. bristle brush) then wring out sponge and wipe area (I also did another wipe with the towel just to be sure I had gotten everything off, but that's just me). The second spraying with Simple Green keeps the film from gumming up and resticking on the tiles, the second scrubbing and wiping removes both film and chemicals from your tiles and grout. I tried to make sure I always ended up using the last of the Goof Of in the metal bowl before I stopped for the day so as not to have any disposal issues. After you have repeated this process on as many tiles as you are comfortable with doing at one time, you should run hot water in the sink and clean everything with hot soapy water and throw away the gloves (always start off with new gloves). Just to be on the safe side, I let the water run in the sink for a while to be sure no chemicals remained in my pipes. Refill mop bucket with just hot water and mop your work area. I know that all sounded way complicated so I thought I'd add the short version.

Set up proper ventilation (fan and open windows) put on safety equipment (gloves, eye protection) fill containers (hot soapy water in mop bucket) small amount of Goof Off (read above recomendations) put in metal bowl

Film Removal
1) clean tiles (Simple Green, 6in. brush, sponge, mop bucket, hot soapy water, towel)
2) wipe tiles (sponge, mop bucket, hot soapy water, towel)
3) liquify film (Goof Off, metal bowl, 4in brush)
4) remove film and Goof Off (Simple Green, 6in. brush, sponge, mop bucket, hot soapy water, towel) SAME AS STEP ONE

Finish and clean up
5) mop (mop, mop bucket, hot water) I went over it a second time, but again, that's just me
6) clean up (hot soapy water in sink, clean everything, rinse thoroughly)

R&D Tile 03-27-2006 08:34 PM

I'll go one better, DON'T USE THIS CRAP, it's pre-mixed garbage and shouldn't be used at all, you wouldn't have all these problems if you used a cementbased grout and I hope this isn't in a wet area.:eek:

Let me guess, after applying it, it dried leaving pin holes that had to be done over.:rolleyes:

denman 03-28-2006 09:54 AM

TrafficMaster redo a given
 
Yep, but not so much for pin holes as shrinkage. Before I applied the stuff, I had read a few posts about other experiences and one of the tips was not to use too much water on your sponge as it causes pinholes. While I am happy with the final result, I have never in my life had to go through so much trouble to get the desired results. I have heard that there has been a problem with water but as far as I can tell, that would be if you allowed it to have water on it before it had a chance to properly cure. The stuff seems to be O.K. now, I grouted many months ago. I read somewhere that it takes what, around a month to fully cure? Fortunately, water is not a real issue in this case. Pinholes can be avoided but there is no way to get around the shrinkage. I guess, if I had sponged the tiles enough to actually get all the film off the tiles during application then I would have ended up with pinholes. Agreed that this product is way too problematic and needs to be sent back to the drawing board. Hopefully, someday, a product will come out that is stainproof, never needs to be sealed and resealed and can be applied as easily as real grout. Now only time will tell if all the blood, sweat, and tears actually gave me what they promised. I only hope that my original post was able to help someone who had already used the stuff and was pulling their hair out and beating the floor after everything they tried had failed to get the residual film off of their tiles.

R&D Tile 03-28-2006 06:43 PM

Quote:

Hopefully, someday, a product will come out that is stainproof, never needs to be sealed and resealed and can be applied as easily as real grout.
There is, it's called epoxy grout, not quite as easy, but Laticrete makes one called Spectrolock, not that difficult to use.:)

denman 03-29-2006 07:54 PM

Thx
 
I still have a few smaller places that I wanted to regrout and I will definately be looking at your suggestion. I have heard of the brand but I don't remember seeing it offhand. Hopefully it is at the major home improvement stores or major tile stores.

R&D Tile 03-29-2006 09:31 PM

Lowes and Dal-Tile sell it, HD doesn't have it, if you ever want to use it or any other grout, all of that pre-mixed stuff has to be removed first.:)

denman 03-30-2006 07:50 PM

thx, lowes is just around the corner
 
Fortunately, it would be a redo of regular grout. Thanks for all the information.

odefin@hawaii.rr.com 06-30-2007 07:32 PM

latucrete
 
does anyone know anything about preparation for laticrete blue 92. i went to their web site,and could n't find anything. thanks:boat: :boat:

AtlanticWBConst. 06-30-2007 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by odefin@hawaii.rr.com (Post 51025)
does anyone know anything about preparation for laticrete blue 92. i went to their web site,and could n't find anything. thanks:boat: :boat:

Try contacting them directly (telephone). They should have someone working in a "Technical" Capacity that can answer all your questions.

I have had to contact multiple manufactures to clarify things like: actual R-value of a product, how to properly apply an epoxy-silica-sand compound on concrete, proper installation of expandable foam into roof eaves that has strip venting, etc.. etc...

I have never had a problem getting the answers that we need - from a manufacturer....

odefin@hawaii.rr.com 06-30-2007 09:17 PM

thanks
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. (Post 51037)
Try contacting them directly (telephone). They should have someone working in a "Technical" Capacity that can answer all your questions.

I have had to contact multiple manufactures to clarify things like: actual R-value of a product, how to properly apply an epoxy-silica-sand compound on concrete, proper installation of expandable foam into roof eaves that has strip venting, etc.. etc...

I have never had a problem getting the answers that we need - from a manufacturer....

thanks i appreciate your prompt response. we were going to use it tomorrow and would have to call the manufacturer on monday. aloha from hawaii

poppameth 06-30-2007 09:34 PM

Mapei is also making a product similar to Spectralock now. We haven't tried it yet but there is bound to be a job that will need it.

odefin@hawaii.rr.com 06-30-2007 09:58 PM

laticrete
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by poppameth (Post 51039)
Mapei is also making a product similar to Spectralock now. We haven't tried it yet but there is bound to be a job that will need it.


what does that have to do with preparation for installing laticrete? thanks:eek:

odefin@hawaii.rr.com 06-30-2007 10:00 PM

laticrete
 
what does that have to do with preparation for installation of laticrete? thanks:eek:

poppameth 07-01-2007 11:11 AM

Nothing. I was just making mention of the fact since Spectralock has also been mentioned in this thread.

odefin@hawaii.rr.com 07-01-2007 01:46 PM

ok thx


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