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Old 01-18-2012, 09:23 PM   #1
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Trafficmaster Ceramica on pine finished floor


My house was built in 1937, and originally had linoleum over the pine floor in the kitchen. The owner before me stripped up the lineoleum and sanded, stained and finished the pine floor. The floor is two inch wide, pine planks; they are tight smooth, although of a quality that it is apparent to me they were never intended to be a finished floor (significant knots, etc.)

Unfortunately, since all the other floors in the house are oak, and the kitchen cabinets are maple, having a third type/color of wood in one place is kind of disconcerting. I found some Trafficmaster Ceramica peel & stick tile that matches my tumbled marble backsplash perfectly, and planned to install it on top of the finished pine floor. But reading the small print on the box, it says that the product should not be installed on plank flooring without an underlayment.

I can't imagine any underlayment is going to be smoother than this finished wood floor. The box says you can install the tiles over old vinyl, old ceramic tile, and other less smooth flooring. Can anyone tell me why it wouldn't work to just install the tiles directly on the floor?

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Old 01-18-2012, 09:25 PM   #2
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Trafficmaster Ceramica on pine finished floor


It might work, but if it fails, no warranty.

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Old 03-06-2012, 01:39 AM   #3
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Trafficmaster Ceramica on pine finished floor


Wood moves. But consider: The tile runs a buck or a bit more per square foot. A new subfloor is going to be a LOT more than that. Worst case: The tile is going to let go after a couple years.



That said: Having multiple colors of wood is NOT a bad thing. It gives your house character. You don't paint rooms the same colour, do you? Who worries that the piano doesn't match the coffee table?

Option 2. If you have oak elsewhere, and you like oak, put down a new prefinished oak floor. Modern finishes wear well even under kitchen abuse.

Option 3. Put down a oak looking laminate. Cheap to live with, easy to put in.



If you keep the pine, don't try to stain it. Pine is VERY hard to stain evenly. (If you do decide to, go at least 2 grades finer in terms of sandpaper. I did a pantry with pine planking, stained red. Came out beautifully -- but I sanded everything to 220 grit) If you want to change the color, use a tint in your varnish -- but make the tint light enough that it takes at least 3-4 coats to get the color you want. This will reduce the lap marks.

Get the floor really really clean. Strip all wax -- usually ammonia -- wash again with TSP, sand with a palm sander with ~200 grit paper -- just to get the gloss off any finish. Vacuum really well. Use a swiffer to dust it just before you tile.

Pay special attention to the corners -- If the early owners waxed the floor, the wax won't have worn off in the corners when they rewaxed. You might find a zillion layers there.
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:56 AM   #4
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Trafficmaster Ceramica on pine finished floor


thanks for the comments.

the new flooring is down, has been down about a month now, and still looks really good. the hardest part was dealing with another issue common in old houses--there's not a square corner in the entire room, and the idiots who did the last renovation about 6 years ago installed cabinets and an island off-square as well. death to house-flippers!
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:06 AM   #5
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Trafficmaster Ceramica on pine finished floor


I saw a bathroom tiling job. The room was really out of square. The tub wall was over an inch taller in one corner than the other.

The tiler was a master. He soaked up the difference with 1/16 on each row of tile, and made it look right by varying he depth of the grout. (At the narrow end, the grout was taller, so wider with the curve of the edge of the tile.

Another thing you can do if you are ever face with this again -- lay the tile diagonally. This also hides out-of-true islands.

In passing: Keep the leftovers in a box where it's cool. If you need to replace a tile you can lift it by warming it with a iron. The heat softens the glue. You can also stick down corners that lift this way, but only if you get to it before any dirt gets under it.

Post some pictures?
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