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Old 06-19-2011, 12:23 PM   #76
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Trafficmaster Allure ULTRA! Planks


I've spend some time reading the posts here and I've found them helpful.. Thank you to all the experts out there helping us novices.

I just purchased the Allure Ultra product and I've spent some time reading about the installation. I'm trying to figure out the "nuts and bolts" of the installation before I start the install. I may be coming back with lots of questions.

Question 1: My first question has been asked on this site already, but I really don't like the answer. I'm hoping there is another idea out there. It's the door jam question. It's a floating floor and the edge is supposed to be covered by molding. When the plank buts up against the door jam, there is nothing to overhang over the edge of the plank and the edge is visible. The previous solution was to put in some caulk or silicone. Is there another option? I was already intending to put a small bead of silicone all the way around the perimeter, but I don't want to see the edge.

Question 2: Iíve seen it recommended that the planks should run the length of a room. However, Iím wondering which is better for the resiliency of the product where it comes to an external door? Should the planks be orientated perpendicular or parallel to the front door where there will not be an overhang as in my question 1 above? There will be a fair amount (no matter how careful I am) of water, snow, and sand coming in through this door. If there is damage at this horizontal edge of the plank, replacing a single plank would be better than if the short edge of the plank is in contact with the door jam. Any suggestions or opinions?

Question 3: Has anyone put a layer of sheet plastic down under the planks as has been suggested here? Does this make the planks more or less likely to move around? I currently have ugly peel and stick tile on the floor. My original thought was to install the planks over this linoleum tile. However, I now think I need to scrape this stuff off the floor so that the planks can fit underneath the front door as it opens. Right now, it's a tight squeeze. I also read the instructions manual and it recommends a ďnon rubberĒ floor mat at the front door to protect the floor from tracked in dirt and sand. After this linoleum stuff is scraped off, the floor is just MDF wood. I donít trust this stuff by itself without having some type of extra waterproofing layer. A water leak around my water heater is what has caused this whole issue to begin with. The MDF wood gets just a little wet and warps like a sponge.

Question 4: I know that the floor is supposed to float. However, there are a couple of places where the floor needs to be anchored down. My question has to do with if it is better to anchor it along the horizontal edge of the plank or anchor it along the short edge of the plank. One of the rooms where this is being installed is in a kitchen where there is a stair leading up into the kitchen (stair without a door so a threshold wonít do it). The edges of the steps will have a screwed down metal step edge and this edge will also be used where the stair enters the room. Should the planks be orientated parallel or perpendicular to the steps? The other place where the planks will be anchored is where I have a built-in bench in a breakfast nook. The bench is built in the feet of the bench will rest on top of the planks. In this case, I donít think it matters which way the planks are orientated.

Thatís it for now. Thanks in advance to any words of advice given.

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Old 06-19-2011, 01:51 PM   #77
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No 1, you can undercut the door frames.

No 3, see what the manufacturer says about plastic underneath, and if you decide to take up the tiles, be aware that the tiles and adhesive might contain asbestos.
No 4, it will buckle if anchored.
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Last edited by rusty baker; 06-19-2011 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:22 PM   #78
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We are looking at putting this flooring in our lake cabin. The cabin will be a year-round home and will be heated to 40*F in the winter. We have looked at the Ultra Allure due to claims of being resiliant and waterproof. And, with being at the lake, we are sure to have some moisture coming in at times especially during the summer months (and some snow-mix during the winter).

The cabin is built upon a (floating) concrete slab no less than 4in thick. On top of the concrete, there are tiles that we believe to be asbestos. Glued to those tiles is a thin, indoor/outdoor carpet of sorts. We are thinking about installing the Ultra Allure ontop the carpet. Thoughts on our plan??
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:08 PM   #79
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I have a mud room floor that is part concrete slab and part plywood. can a heated floorig mat system be used under the allure ultra?
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:17 PM   #80
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We have had this floor in for a few days. Looks great, installed easily, there is still a faint chemical smell. How long before this goes away? I called the manufacturer and they said it passed LEEDS sustainability and California certification testing, and that the smell should go away in a couple weeks.
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:12 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by rusty baker View Post
He was asking about the Ultra product that's click together, not the regular Allure product that uses sticky strips.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:53 PM   #82
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Rocky - you can lay the floor both ways. It's easier to do it with the tongue out in the direction you're going, but I laid it back into a closet in the opposite direction with no trouble. In some instances though, you might cut all your pieces, then just lay it all in the same direction.

Feel: I've just finished laying (and re-laying) my floor in kitchen and breakfast nook and it feels really great to walk on. Softer than wood and softer than my old sheet vinyl floor. Very slick though - never use it on stairs. My 4 yo has fallen down several times and it's only been in for about a week. I imagine it will rough up over time as it is inevitably scratched - though we even mistakenly hit it with the utility knife over the course of installation, and it didn't show in most cases. You really would have to try to scratch the floor for it to show.

Some lessons learned/advice....
-not "the easiest floor" - whoever came up with that slogan obviously never installed it.
-It *is* easy to score and snap.
-If you're a newbie like me, you will tear your hands up and your hands and wrists will be killing you each night that you work for a few hours.
-If it's your first time working with the floor you *will* be pulling it up at least once and having to put it back down because gaps will mysteriously appear where you thought it was locked.... any slight 1/16 gap will eventually turn into 1/8 or more, so get it right the first time.
-You have to constantly lock and re-lock and re-lock and re-lock the planks along the horizontal edge that you are working, especially if you have any slight sag to your floor, cause if you don't, there'll be gaps and you'll have to pull it all up and re-lay it (see above).
-door jambs are not as much of a problem as I thought they'd be. I bought a jamb saw and cut them all, and used a couple of mini-crowbars to pull the pieces into place -actually these were invaluable tools throughout the project, couldn't have done it without them, especially along finishing edges.
-It took me about 1 row per hour in an average size kitchen due to vents, cabinets, corners, learning curve, etc.
-After all is done - and it was TOUGH.... I'm still glad I did it, and though it was terribly frustrating and I wouldn't want to do it again, I'm happy with the end result, and it looks and feels great.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:59 PM   #83
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So... my floor is down, now to put back my cleaned and newly stained shoe molding and quarter round..... Someone said that we should nail it into the wall. What about into baseboards? We have baseboards and the floor is about 1/8" from those all around. It is *really* hard to nail the trim into the baseboards - is that what we're supposed to do though? Or are we supposed to just go in at an angle into the subfloor via the gap that is there?

Rusty? FloorPro? help!

Oh, and if anyone wants to see my pictures (the good and the bad), go here: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Allure-Resilient-Flooring/139124616117162
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Old 07-01-2011, 04:14 PM   #84
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Tara, unless I'm misunderstanding it is expected that you remove baseboards prior to installing the flooring, after the flooring is installed 1/8" from the sheetrock/wall you would reinstall baseboard/molding by attaching it directly to the wall, as your baseboard was. If you like the look of molding on top of your baseboard, go for it, but you'll want to attach it to the baseboard not the subfloor. We used glue instead of nails when installing cove base commercially.. dunno why you couldn't use liquid nails or something like that to attach your molding.
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:57 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloorPro View Post
I am only going on the 50 or 60 jobs Ive installed without issues... Ive had a few issues with the regular Allure though, but nothing that couldnt be worked out...
I'd like to hear from FloorPro on this as you've said you've installed both the regular Allure and the Allure Ultra. I sure hope I haven't purchased the wrong product for the kitchen which I'm expecting to use a wet mop on. I purchased the sticky strip (regular) Allure, but haven't attempted installation yet.

1) Will this product hold up to a wet mop? Have you had any issues with kitchens and wet mops for those you've installed this product for? (Is it simply a matter of not "drenching" the floor with water and using just a damp mop?)
2) Would using a heavy roller help the floor adhere better?
3) Would you comment on some of the issues of the regular Allure (you say you've encountered) and enlighten me on how you worked them out?

It's rather daunting to hear about buckling, etc., so any help you can give would be greatly appreciated so I know what I'm getting into.

Appreciate your thoughts!
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:46 PM   #86
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So... 5 days after posting the above, there are some gaps showing. Again. Unfortunately this time, I have to remove trim that I've already put down, so I can pull up the floor. Again. Dammit. At this point, I would NOT recommend this floor to anyone, unless you know for a fact, you've got 100% flat surface to lay it on. Even the slightest bow will not allow your floor to properly lock, and then a few days after you think you're 'done', your gaps will show, and who knows what would happen if left that way? This sucks. I really wanted it to work out too - where it does lock, I really like it, but what a royal pain otherwise. Oh, and my house was built in the 90's, so it's not that old. I can't imagine any house wouldn't have a slight sag towards the middle of their kitchen floor from foot traffic.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:55 PM   #87
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Tara, I'm curious whether TrafficMaster has some approved method to tack the boards together that will not void the warranty. If I were you, I might consider a semi-flexible adhesive in the joints and hope that it would not affect a warranty claim. If you have removed and reconnected the joints several times now, I would expect that the locking keys would be broken/worn and not function as well as intended. I'm also curious how much this floor can really expand/contract with the temperature.. perhaps you could get away with tacking just the edges to the subfloor to prevent it from working it's way apart. Does anyone know if there are engineering docs that define the expansion statistics? If it's a variance of .025 inches per ft.. that's not going to work.. but if it less than .005 inches per foot, you could probably get away with it on a small floor without worry of buckling or splitting.
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Old 07-15-2011, 10:49 PM   #88
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So... ugh... a word to all novices - when they say you can't install this over a floor that isn't level to within 1/8" over 4 feet, they mean it. And looking at the floor and thinking "Looks level to me!" doesn't cut it.

After the fact, I've realized in the center of both sides of my room (divided by counter and sink), is actually about a 9/16 sag in my floors. ARGH!!! That means it's my own fault dammit! (Although.... no instructions come in the boxes anyhow, so I could blame Halstead I guess) Lesson - measure and level before you buy. So.... what to do....

I will yet again, carefully take up my floor putting my cut pieces in piles in order by row and my uncut pieces in piles all in my office, go to a box store and buy some self-leveling compound that is able to be used over my old sheet vinyl, rent the mixer, pour it into the sags, trowel it out, re-measure and once I get it level, re-lay the floor... for the THIRD time.

If it comes apart after that I'm going freakin' ballistic. I'm so sick of messing with this floor and it's my own fault!
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Old 07-16-2011, 09:11 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anemoi View Post
I'd like to hear from FloorPro on this as you've said you've installed both the regular Allure and the Allure Ultra. I sure hope I haven't purchased the wrong product for the kitchen which I'm expecting to use a wet mop on. I purchased the sticky strip (regular) Allure, but haven't attempted installation yet.

1) Will this product hold up to a wet mop? Have you had any issues with kitchens and wet mops for those you've installed this product for? (Is it simply a matter of not "drenching" the floor with water and using just a damp mop?)
2) Would using a heavy roller help the floor adhere better?
3) Would you comment on some of the issues of the regular Allure (you say you've encountered) and enlighten me on how you worked them out?

It's rather daunting to hear about buckling, etc., so any help you can give would be greatly appreciated so I know what I'm getting into.

Appreciate your thoughts!
If you haven't put it down yet take it back it comes up faster than it goes down. Get a refund and go with some other flooring I have 2100.00 in my floor it looks really bad and I filed a warranty claim and they tell me every week someone is going to come to inspect for a refund but not one comes but judging from what I have read today on web if they do come you still will not get a refund.
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Old 07-16-2011, 07:12 PM   #90
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This flooring has caught my attention for my living room. We have a pool and the kids come in wet through the sliding glass door so I worried about real wood. Add a dog and 3 cats and while I want the look of wood I need something tough. My concern is along on wall I have a brink fireplace. There is a brick type bench that comes off the fireplace so there is no molding there How would I hide the egde to allow for that expansion gap? I can't put a thin strip there to cover without nailing it to the floor because we are talking about brick so I can't nail anything to that. Also how would I hide the edge by the sliding glass door and my living room you step down into it so I would also have to hide the edge around the step. Fun part the step is rounded. Any thoughts? Thanks

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