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Old 05-24-2011, 03:54 PM   #46
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Trafficmaster Allure ULTRA! Planks


You can use a number of things... 1/4 round or shoe moulding can be used there... They make different sizes of each, so finding something is easy... If you keep the required expansion gap at 1/8 inch, you could even use colored putty in the gap...

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Old 05-24-2011, 04:32 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by FloorPro View Post
It sounds like it was an installer issue... My first time with Allure Ultra sucked too, but once you do it and learn the right way, its easy... Good luck
So, might you be able to fill us in on "the right way" or is this perhaps not the best DIY project?
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:40 PM   #48
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They install very similar to planked laminate... Install the short end first and pull the long end at about a 15 degree angle toward you... The first couple rows are more difficult until you can actually get on the floor and pull the planks toward you...
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:42 PM   #49
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No one is going to be a pro the first time... I never said it was the best DIY project, but if you take your time and be patient, you will get it...
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:13 PM   #50
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Hi, I would like to install the Allure Ultra in a curve design, like a semi-circle with a light wood color in the middle of a square with a dark wood color. Would this be possible with the Ultra planks? I know it's fairly easy to do with VCTs that are glued to the floor. Would one have to glue down the transition area or would it buckle and lift after a short period?
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:17 PM   #51
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Ultra will not be the product to use for your application... Even the regular Allure wouldnt work... You will want to use something that could be glued down or nailed... Armstrong makes a vinyl plank that requires glued down and you might be able to use that but it would be fairly difficult to do...
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:44 PM   #52
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All: I have been reading these discussions for weeks. Just got my floor and am in the acclimation stage. Pulled a few planks just to see how easy/hard it would be. Various instructions are somewhat conflicting. Even the official video shows 2 different ways to install the floor - one left to right and the other right to left. It's maddening.

If some of you are scratching your heads over how to accomplish clicking on 2 sides, you are not alone. What I finally discovered via a lot of trial and error and careful reading is:
1. Go left to right, but put the tongue towards the wall, and the groove to the outside - that is, point the groove towards the direction that you are laying the floor.
2. After you lay the first row and start the second, stand on the first row and first plank of the second row, weight it, or lean on it really hard. If you put your back to the starting wall, it's easier to get the angles right.
3. Here's the counter-intuitive part. The piece that you are installing goes under the planks that are in place on both tongued sides. Slide the short end under the existing short end at a very slight angle. Then, you have to sort of hold that angle and really firmly slide the long end tongue of the piece in your hand under the edge of the piece against your wall (which hopefully you are standing on). Practice before you ever start to lay your floor until you get the hang of it.

Worked for me. Hopefully this will save someone some grief if you are like me and are trying to do this without any practical experience whatsoever, and are lamenting the complete lack of information and instructions that are out there.

Now... if anyone has advice on how to get these suckers under a doorjamb on a 'finishing' side, I would be grateful.

Tara

Last edited by tara8595; 05-27-2011 at 11:47 PM.
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:49 PM   #53
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You have to undercut door jambs... It just looks more professional... They make an undercut saw for about 10 bucks u can use... Im also hoping you bought a tapping block... It makes installation alot easier as well as a pull bar... A pull bar is used when you are near a wall or door jamb and you need to click two pieces together... U smack the pull bar with a hammer and it draws the laminate together...
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:54 PM   #54
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Im sorry, I thought you were using laminate... Yeah Ultra around door jambs can be tricky and it helps if you come to a door jamb to start at the jamb even if it means installing in the opposite left to right fashion as you have been... Once u work past the jamb then resume installing the way you started...
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:00 AM   #55
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Yeah, no matter what way I go, I will have jambs to deal with. I have an L shaped room with outside doors on front and back of house and a door to another room in the same direction as front door. Then at 90 deg to that, I have a bathroom door on one side of the hall and laundry and closet doors on the other side. Either direction I go, I'm going to have to face the jamb issue on my finishing side.

So still - I have no idea how to accomplish this even once I cut the jambs. Can I tap to slide it from one end like I've read people do with laminate? or will that hurt the vinyl?

I'm not sure how I would install in the opposite direction. Can you give me more detail? I really appreciate the advice. If nothing else, I'll probably just 'bang it in with a hammer' and hope for the best, which is what friends are telling me to do. Would that work?
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:04 AM   #56
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If all else fails and you cant get it in, then take ur knife and slowly and carefully shave the locking joint down on the plank... It will make it easier to snap in... You could always use some adhesive in the joint to supplement the part u shaved down... Keep in mind that this isnt the right way, but it will probably work for u
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:06 PM   #57
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@FloorPro I am looking at the Allure Ultra for our kitchen and laundry room. Our contractor recommended this since we wanted the look of wood but the ease of vinyl. We have a dog, 60lbs, a cat with back claws and a 5 month old daughter with future children in the plan. Do you feel this will be ok for our home? I am starting to hear of issues with scratching revealing the white marks. I appreciate your input
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:12 PM   #58
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First of all, any floor you go with can be scratched, scuffed, gouged, etc... With that being said, the Ultra product is very durable... Im not sure what the white marks are... The Ultra has a black vinyl core thats thick and durable... Ultra should be a durable enough floor for what you need... Scuffs or marks can be removed off any Allure product with a Scotch Brite pad and the Allure polisher that you can buy with the floor...
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Old 05-31-2011, 07:53 AM   #59
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Thank you FloorPro, I appreciate the help Does anyone have photos of Allure Ultra? The photos on Home Depots site aren't very realistic of my house so I was hoping to see some more natural photos.
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:16 PM   #60
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Hello...considering the Allure Ultra flooring for Dining Room and Kitchen. After removing carpeting and tiles in DR I noticed the tiles were installed using cut-back...an oil based "glue" which is not removable in its entirety. I'm somewhat skeptical about the thin set in the kitchen as the glue responds to warm water easier than chemicals. I would like to place the Ultra flooring over both. The floors are level and smooth, trowel ridges in cutback can barely be felt, rooms square. In the DR, I have removed the carpet tack strips which left small holes against the wall as well as the "entry" between DR and kitchen. I was told by sales person at HD that nothing needed to be done with these holes and could lay Ultra flooring on top w/out problem. I guess the basic question is if I need/must do anything to the floor I'm installing the Ultra upon as long as it is completely clean and free of any grit, sand, dust, dry wall remnants, etc.? And, how in the world do you paint and install molding later w/out ruining the new flooring? Please advise and thank you.

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