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Old 01-22-2013, 03:24 PM   #166
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That may be it, that the problems don't get resolved. I think with the vinyl planks, if you have to remove them then try to reinstall, the lip is damaged so you don't really get a second chance. I was meticulous during installation, but I've seen other people say the same thing yet have problems.

I dunno.

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Old 01-22-2013, 04:20 PM   #167
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I guess I am going to give it one more chance and try again but will also see if HD will take the boxes back. The planks seem to separate easily without damaging the lip. This time I will make for damn sure there is not so much as a micron of daylight in between them.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:54 AM   #168
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I do think it's like a lot of other situations/products where the unhappy people are very vocal about it while the satisfied customers just carry on and never mention it.
I haven't had problems and I am just as vocal as anyone else here. It's just that others have had a different experience and that is as valid and important as mine. Maybe more so.

No product has a 0% failure rate. Consumers would like to know if they are taking a 1% or a 10% or a 50% chance of wasting their time, effort, and money.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:21 PM   #169
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floorpro, are you still on this site?
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:33 AM   #170
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I've put down about 600 square feet of Allure Ultra over the last month. One thing I found is that it is very easy to knock out pieces eight feet away when snapping together the latest piece. You have to be very diligent about looking back at the last couple rows to make sure nothing slipped out. Make sure you look straight down at the joints - you may miss something from an angle. I also found that getting the first row away from the wall straight, and then locking it in place with some scraps screwed into the subfloor made it much easier than trying to use shims.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:17 PM   #171
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I have used Allure planks (stick strip) for quite a few projects, and never had any issues with them. I saw the Ultra today, and was curious. My initial interest was that they had a commercial warranty, which is a good sign. However, reading all these issues, especially the ones with experienced installers, makes me hold back.

I'm wondering though, for those who used the Ultra and had them come apart, did you guys install them over a floor that had were somewhat soft? Like over creaky floors, for example. My suspicion is that soft floors, or even unleveled and/or uneven floors, could cause major issues with a soft click type planks.
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:07 PM   #172
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Hello everyone, Having installed this in an 1100 sq ft. beauty salon, I thought i would toss an issue out there and see if anyone has run into this or may have a solution.

We (my wife and I) decided that this would be a great choice for installation in her beauty salon mainly because of it being waterproof. Having installed many laminate/interlocking floors in the past, I thought that it went in pretty easily. The problem my wife is having is in keeping it clean and undull looking. after mopping (which is done very frequently) it always looks dull. During the winter months, rock salt which gets tracked in leaves unsightly marks and are sometimes impossible to remove. Has anyone used a heavy duty or commercial type sealer or wax that makes maintaining this type of floor a little easier than scrubbing on your hands and knees daily? We originally thought that just damp mopping this floor daily should be good enough in maintaining its looks but this has proven not to be the case. It requires much heavy scrubbing to keep the "nooks and crannys" in the floor pattern from trapping everyday traffic debris and becoming unsightly. Any input on this subject would be greatly appreciated. The color we have is the dark espresso.

Thank you

Dave
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:13 PM   #173
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Okay. I have current experience with Allure Altra. Not with the wood-look narrow planks, but the travertine-tile look rectangles.

The product is beautiful. It is NOT easy to install. The persuasive video promises a "slide and click" installation. NOT. After much wasted time with calls to customer service, I went higher in the organization and found out the company has created a special plastic tapping tool meant to help you force the tiles together with the help of a hammer. Apparently, Home Depot does not carry the tool, and Halstead customer service pretends it doesn't exist (or has not been informed by management). However, a helpful executive sent me one, and it works to a good degree. Installing is still not easy, but this gadget helps.

Our installation has areas where the seams refused to mate, so of course the water-tight claims made in the video are also false. Something is needed to fill the gaps. I had the same experience as another online poster, a wild goose chase in HD looking for the "PolyBlend Seam Filler" that Customer Service recommended, which doesn't exist. Now I am told that the PolyBlend ceramic tile caulk will work with the vinyl, though the label does not mention using it with this material.

Long story short: Allure Ultra was put on the market before it was ready for prime time. Maybe the undecided should wait awhile before purchasing.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:31 PM   #174
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Anybody considering this should look at the cross section to see if it has a white material about 2 microns below the top coat.

Mine scraped of with the wheels of a high chair and now there's white spots showing through all over.

Sucks!
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:28 PM   #175
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[QUOTE=aboveaveragejoe;518883]Hey Wiley0714!

I am a flooring specialist from the Atlanta area and just wanted to say a quick hello and answer your question regarding comments or reviews on TrafficMaster Allure Vinyl.



TrafficMaster Allure planks get the attention they do because of the ease of use. The only time I've personally ever see a customer frustrated with the product is when[/COLOR] they did not let the product acclimate and some the edges did peel up. Even with the substrate being vinyl it needs a day or so for the planks to get adjusted to the temperature, etc. After I explained that to her, she had no further issues with theinstallation. Also, I just spoke with my Flooring Installer Specialist and we both agree that leaving the foam underlayment would not work in this situation due to the Allure planks not being able to hold onto the subfloor itself. I recommend either a sheet of polyurethane or similar vapor barrier thin plastic (ie 6 mil) or you can paint the floor with a waterproofing membrane. The foam underlayment is just too thick for the vinyl planks to hold properly. We sell both of the underlaymentís and you can find those products at any nearest home center. That way youíll have no slippage or possible failure from your new floor.

Overall,itís a great product and I'm gladyouíre still doing research before diving into the project!

Thanks,

aboveaveragejoe
__________________________________________________ _________________________________________[ If your talking about the plastic coated carboard flooring that giving half the world a headache,please install it and get back to us when it buckles on you, just like it did for MANY contractors,installers and diy's. Floor reps and anyone that sell this junk will say its great,looks like real flooring except to those contractors that are riping it back out and throwing it in a landfill. Floor reps get PAID to sell the crap they push(pennies per sq ft). tell all that good stuff to the whole development in Colorado and in Texas that its great=long lasting????? hahahha..Ask ANY DEVELOPER what the BEST or a GOOD and NOT the CHEAPEST flooring to use. NO-ONE will recommend TRAFFICMASTER, SURFACE SOURCE, OR PROJECT SOURCE=COMPLETE JUNK FLOORING. most floor reps are NO LONGER coming out to inspect,just reimburse the customer. ON product ONLY!!!Your going to have to pay the installer to remove(uninstall) said junk flooring and replace with a better product.. But DONT listen to me take TITANS advise (haha)and buy a tractor trailer truck load and have it installed. keep the flooring in a climate controlled area (for the rest of its life) because it does some amazing transformation ALL BY ITSELF.. love you guys and gals and good luck using that landfill material flooringp.s. they change the name of this type of flooring quite often. gee,i wonder why.
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:41 PM   #176
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an honest answer. Hi,im a flooring specialist.because i know nothing about flooring,just know how to talk people into buying this junk=garbage flooring.. I talked to another flooring rep that also knows nothing and we both agree you should buy lots of this garbage.. let me know if your state charges you to throw it in a landfill because some states wont allow construction material unless their PAID.. Glad your researching first before you jump off that cliff..
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:58 PM   #177
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Originally Posted by FloorPro View Post
Hi all... My name is John... I install Allure and Allure Ultra professionally here in TN... I have seen it all when it comes to Allure... I have about 900 to 1000 Allure jobs under my belt... I will answer any questions you may have to the best of my ability...
We recently installed Allure Ultra downstairs and some of the seams are separating. What can I do to fix this besides pulling up the entire floor. Di a ver large area wi three rooms and a hall. Will a flexible grout work to seal am
Nd hide or will it adhere to vinyl flooring ? Please help
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Old 11-28-2013, 05:56 PM   #178
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Would like to see here if anyone bought or installed the ULTRA traffic master Allure planks now sold at home depot.

I am considering this for a basement. I have laminate flooring dont which was two separate colors with carpet. I am not planning to remove the carpet and

use the floating old laminate for two other rooms.

I still have the vapor barrier/foam underlay from the laminate flooring down. I intend to keep that there. I know that concrete in a basement will get (wet) from ground water absorption. I know mold grows from heat and moisture.

I intend to keep the foam barrier to keep any mold, vapors, out of the basement. As a note. The previous laminate was placed over a heated floor in some areas. I discovered that an area in which I know i spilled (either gun cleaner or another liquid) there was mold. This mold was on the laminate between the foam and the laminate. I presume the heated floor provided the heat and the laminate provided the food for the mold growth. This is why I would prefer a vinyl product like this Ultra Alure, instead of the reg laminate.

I know this is the new Allure product so i would like to see comment or reviews on it. Not on the Allure glue together vinyl, or sheets of vinyl only comment on the allure ultra planks please! Thanks ...
Could you tell me if I can install on heated floor. Will it last?
Thanks
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Old 11-30-2014, 01:20 PM   #179
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I always install Allure and Laminate in what I call thirds... You want to stagger the floor in thirds to maintain a natural looking floor, but to also give it strength... This method doesnt have to be presise... You will want to score it on the top side... It will snap easier if you score the top protective wear layer... Plus that also keeps the plank oriented to your job...
Hi FloorPro John. I know this is an old thread but hope you see it. I am thinking of installing Allure Ultra in a 15' x 30' kitchen. My floor is two 3/4" layers of plywood with a 1/4" sheet of luan on top of that. Half is over an inaccessible unheated "crawl space" with a concrete floor and the other over an accessible crawl space also with concrete floor but is more temperature controlled. I have many questions.
  • Should I install the floor before installing the new base cabinets or after?
  • If flooring does not go under the bases, is the 1/4" toe kick enough or would I still need quarter round, or a thicker base board?
  • Can I install the flooring under the range, dishwasher and refrigerator?
  • If I can put under the appliances, will the appliances make a dent in the flooring?
  • If I slide out the appliances, will it damage the floor? The fridge has wheels but not range and dishwasher.
  • Will tables and chairs mar the surface or are some kind of protectors needed.
  • A 10' island will be in the kitchen, can flooring go under this or around it using baseboard or quarter round?
  • Can or should I use any of those thin foam underlayment's for insulating or a poly vapor barrier?
  • I understand this flooring was reformulated to stop the off-gassing and also redid the click-lock to improve its integrity. Is this true?
Thanks for any answers.

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