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Old 03-29-2012, 11:26 PM   #136
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Trafficmaster Allure ULTRA! Planks


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I'm a grown man and all I feel like doing is crying. My wife and I spent four grand on allure ultra on a home depot credit card. It has been nothing but a nightmare. Seems popping every where. Redid the floor several times. Seams pop at random. And yes we put them together correctly. Just my two cents.
Oh no! That's terrible! Do you have some photos you could show us so we might be able to troubleshoot with you? Which seams are popping? The lengthwise ones or the short edge seams? Are plank seams popping more in one part of your room than another? How did you lay the planks; one at a time or a row at a time like I described above?

I know you said you two put them together correctly, but are you sure the majority of your seams were tight? Like, no gray or black gaps, hammered-new-piece-with-a-rubber-mallet-while-the-planks-were-at-an-angle-then-laid-it-flat tight? And if so, is your floor underneath flat enough for those seams to hold when you put pressure on them by standing on the floor?
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:37 PM   #137
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Does anyone know if you can transition from the Carrara Cream Trafficmaster Allure Ultra Vinyl (click togther) to the Grey Oak Plank Trafficmaster Allure Ultra Vinyl. I am looking at a transution in the middle of the Ktchen and Dininroom and am wondering if the Click together seams are the same which will make the transition easy without a threshhold.
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Old 04-21-2012, 02:38 AM   #138
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I am in a dilema. I cant find a single online video about how to use the locking mechanism when laying around door jambs. As well I have a fire place with a very iregular front and need to know how to butt up to. I was thinking about undercutting the base and sliding the palnks under but dont know how I wojuld get them to Lock. Help Please!
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:13 PM   #139
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I am in a dilema. I cant find a single online video about how to use the locking mechanism when laying around door jambs. As well I have a fire place with a very iregular front and need to know how to butt up to. I was thinking about undercutting the base and sliding the palnks under but dont know how I wojuld get them to Lock. Help Please!
under cutting isn't really an option. like you said you cant lock them in. the only real option is going right up to the door jam or fireplace. cutting the pieces is not very easy either. hopefully you are able to add molding to cover up the edges
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:34 PM   #140
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Trafficmaster Allure ULTRA! Planks


Hello everyone, I am considering using Allure Resilient Plank Flooring for my second floor bathroom. Am concerned about water leaking into the ceiling below from the shower. I can't decide if i should use the Allure Ultra or the Allure GripStrip (glue strip). I plan to lay the new flooring right on top of the existing laminate tiles. I was hoping someone had experience with this type of application and could recommend the best Allure product for my bathroom application. Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:15 PM   #141
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Okay - so I have used both the TrafficMaster Allure, and the TrafficMaster Allure Ultra. Unlike some in this thread, I've not had too much trouble, and have generally been very satisfied with both products. I used the TrafficMaster Allure Ultra over vinyl flooring in my kitchen, and then the regular TrafficMaster Allure over concrete in the basement. I actually did TRY the Ultra in the basement, but quickly agreed that a concrete floor is not even enough to keep the boards together. Switching to the regular Allure made the job a snap, and I would actually recommend it to just about anyone.

So, now I'm getting ready to extend the kitchen floor out to our dining room. There is a stairway to the basement in this section that will need to be addressed. I am NOT going to try to use the TrafficMaster stuff on the stairs of course, but I do need to transition the floor to the stairs. There seems to be almost no "transition" pieces for the TrafficMaster Ultra, so I'm not sure how I will be able to end the flooring at the top of the stairs. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Danita
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:16 AM   #142
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Okay - I guess I've found my answer! I found this info -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uqnp...eature=related

It looks like it would work, and while I'm sure I could manage it myself, I'll let my work worker husband have the honor ;-)

Danita
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:20 AM   #143
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Originally Posted by Scott Nei View Post
I am in a dilema. I cant find a single online video about how to use the locking mechanism when laying around door jambs. As well I have a fire place with a very iregular front and need to know how to butt up to. I was thinking about undercutting the base and sliding the palnks under but dont know how I wojuld get them to Lock. Help Please!
I know this is rather late, but just in case others run into the same issue, you could fit an already locked row that has been pre-cut to the proper size beneath your door jamb. Otherwise you'd probably have to do what the others have suggested, going straight up to the edge and using molding to make it look neat. We ran into a similar issue when we reached the edge of our room and had to figure out how to lock in the final piece up against the far wall.

(If anyone would like an extra guide from DIY experience, please click on my username and browse my "homepage" that I made after we installed our click planking in my apartment. I included tips and photos since there were not too many when I was researching instructions myself, and hope you find it helpful )
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:01 PM   #144
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like you said you cant lock them in. the only real option is going right up to the door jam or fireplace. cutting the pieces is not very easy either.
I ended up removing my door trim, installing the planks, then reinstalling the trim.

Making them fit together tightly was, for me, a PITA (just like all "click-together" floor coverings seem to be). I did it, but it took several beers and much swearing.

Where I had to leave an edge gap, I filled in with a colored caulk that was close to the floor color. I also used that to fill in any seams I could see, since I was really going for water resistance.

Putting in a tile floor involved a lot more prep work, but less overall work.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:07 PM   #145
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Hey guys check the date on the thread.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:44 PM   #146
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I realize this is an old thread, but it appears to be the most comprehensive on Allure flooring.

I am thinking of replacing my living room and possibly bedroom carpet with this flooring, mainly due to the 80 and 60 pound dogs that live here. I don't consider hardwood a possibility due to cost and dog damage. I don't like laminate either since I am afraid dog accidents that don't get cleand up right away will soak into the fiberboard and destroy it. It also seems quite slippery which will be bad as the dogs get older. The Allure seems to be the best option based on cost, look and durability.

This would be installed on the main floor of my house over existing hardwood (in very bad shape - refinishing not an option). The whole house is over a basement, so moisture should not be a problem. I understand the need for a flat sub-floor, gaps at the walls, tight installation, etc.

Is there any reason I should not consider this with dogs? Seems like it might be the most durable after tile and concrete, which I don't want.

Is there much advantage to the Allure Ultra (click) vs the Allure (glued edges) for my install? Is one more durable than the other with dogs sliding on it?

Can this be done room by room over time without color matching issues? I'm thinking of starting with the spare bedroom to make sure I like it and to get the hang of installation. I would then move to the living room and hallway, possibly followed by the other two bedrooms.

Are there other similar products at a similar price point?

Thanks for any information you can provide.
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:52 PM   #147
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I have install this flooring from dentist office to garage and homes. I wish it was availabe when i did my garage. The floor has one st back but this can be reduced if install right. One of the glorys of this flooring is it can be cut and installed tight to the wall it will not expand or contract. you can caulk againt the wall to seal it it from spilss it's 100 percent water proff it's heavey and lays over anything. I installed it for a quick fix to cover a flor that needed to be used quick. I did not level concrete or use floor patch. you could feel the diffrents in the concrete however with all the traffic the floor was never damaged. I would not put any thing under it tha could hold moisture lay it right on flloor. I beleave you will be happy with it.
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Originally Posted by wiley0714 View Post
Would like to see here if anyone bought or installed the ULTRA traffic master Allure planks now sold at home depot.

I am considering this for a basement. I have laminate flooring dont which was two separate colors with carpet. I am not planning to remove the carpet and use the floating old laminate for two other rooms.

I still have the vapor barrier/foam underlay from the laminate flooring down. I intend to keep that there. I know that concrete in a basement will get (wet) from ground water absorption. I know mold grows from heat and moisture.

I intend to keep the foam barrier to keep any mold, vapors, out of the basement. As a note. The previous laminate was placed over a heated floor in some areas. I discovered that an area in which I know i spilled (either gun cleaner or another liquid) there was mold. This mold was on the laminate between the foam and the laminate. I presume the heated floor provided the heat and the laminate provided the food for the mold growth. This is why I would prefer a vinyl product like this Ultra Alure, instead of the reg laminate.

I know this is the new Allure product so i would like to see comment or reviews on it. Not on the Allure glue together vinyl, or sheets of vinyl only comment on the allure ultra planks please! Thanks ...
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:02 PM   #148
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When you install this floor you have to make sure there are no slopes or ridges with peaks because the seams will pull away. Make sure your floor is good and level
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With all respect joe:

1. The planks I am talking about, stick to each other. There is not any glue or stripes to stick to the floor.

2. This is a new product, and I assume you are NOT familiar with it. The edges glue to each other for the waterproof/resistant effect.

3. As an employee of Home Depot, I do not expect your opinion, which is reflective of making a stores product look more appealing, to be objective.

4. Home depot does provide reviews, and those post can be controlled in favor of Home depot. And many of there reviews are matched to various similar products, but not product specific.

I am asking for anyone who bought, the new vinyl planks, which have an edge , in which each plank overlaps to create a seal in between the planks.

Not the planks in which , you peel off adhesive to stick the plank to the floor.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:04 PM   #149
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when install this flooring you have to make sure the floor is level with no ridges or divets because the seams will pull away and they will not go back!
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:08 PM   #150
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excellent flooring you will be happy with the end product. Remember you can cut tight to the wall you will not need the space like laminates. I recommend removing your base and under cutting your door frames for nice neat look. And it is great for pets and clean up.
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