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Old 08-13-2012, 07:05 PM   #16
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Tiling over T&G


Let me try to explain. Lets say that your floor joists are running from east to west, you would go in and put in little short joists (50" long, assuming that is how much space is BETWEEN you beams) that connect each beam to the ones beside it. They would occur every 16 inches on center and would run North to South. This would probably help with the deflection issue. You still have the variable of dimensional lumber as a subfloor which is bad for tile. You will need the stability of a plywood to keep movement to a minimum. Even then, i would use ditra to give as much crack isolation as possible. I like the idea of choosing another product such as wood. Youwould probably not have much trouble with that. By the way, I might would try this in my own house but I would never attempt it in a customers home.

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Old 08-13-2012, 09:05 PM   #17
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OK, so what farmall just described is "blocking", which stiffens the space between the joists. It does nothing for the joists though. Your may be OK.

But.....in the other thread you now say the subfloor is 1 1/2" thick, (2x lumber), and you removed all but 1/2" cuz the rest was rotten. So in my book those 2x are not salvageable, take them out of there.

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Old 08-14-2012, 03:32 PM   #18
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OK, so what farmall just described is "blocking", which stiffens the space between the joists. It does nothing for the joists though. Your may be OK.

But.....in the other thread you now say the subfloor is 1 1/2" thick, (2x lumber), and you removed all but 1/2" cuz the rest was rotten. So in my book those 2x are not salvageable, take them out of there.

Jaz
I remeasured the subfoor lumber and it is 1 1/2" thick. It's only that small section of the subfloor board that damaged, as far as I can tell.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:13 PM   #19
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Tiling over T&G


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Let me try to explain. Lets say that your floor joists are running from east to west, you would go in and put in little short joists (50" long, assuming that is how much space is BETWEEN you beams) that connect each beam to the ones beside it. They would occur every 16 inches on center and would run North to South. This would probably help with the deflection issue. You still have the variable of dimensional lumber as a subfloor which is bad for tile. You will need the stability of a plywood to keep movement to a minimum. Even then, i would use ditra to give as much crack isolation as possible. I like the idea of choosing another product such as wood. Youwould probably not have much trouble with that. By the way, I might would try this in my own house but I would never attempt it in a customers home.
Do I have the right idea here?




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Old 08-19-2012, 06:51 PM   #20
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Tiling over T&G


That should work well---good luck.
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:16 PM   #21
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That should work well---good luck.
How should I attach them? Screws through the top of the subfloor, or brackets from underneath?
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:54 PM   #22
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That should work well---good luck.
Joist hangers sufficient or should I also put screws through the top of the T n G?
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:28 PM   #23
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Tiling over T&G


Install the blocking if you want to, but they are not necessary. All you need is joists 16" o.c. which is the normal construction method. Follow with your subfloor which should be 3/4" t&g.

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Old 08-21-2012, 11:13 PM   #24
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Install the blocking if you want to, but they are not necessary. All you need is joists 16" o.c. which is the normal construction method. Follow with your subfloor which should be 3/4" t&g.

Jaz

All I'm wanting to do is reinforce the floor for tile at this point. The dimensional T/G that's down now runs perpendicular to the existing joists. By connecting the existing joists, I'll have 16" 0.c. boards running parallel with the existing subfloor. I'll need to do blocking if I'm to have any success reinforcing the floor (See sketch up diagrams above)
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:25 PM   #25
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Yes I know and after seeing the sketch is why I posted that those short pieces of blocking is not necessary. They do nothing for the joists, but they do help the subfloor stiffness. However 16"o.c. is normal and although it won't hurt, (if done right), I see no reason to do it. A single 3/4" subfloor over 16" is plenty stiff for a ceramic tile base.

Jaz

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