Tiling entryway - proper transition for this scenario?

Scott99999

Hello,

I'm just finishing a remodel in which I've tiled a bathroom, laundry room and entryway. The latter joins the bath & laundry with the rest of the house and has three openings, one of which goes to the exterior.

I'm using Del Conca porcelain 6x6 "Canyon" tiles on a diagonal and I'm going to end up with 1.5" triangles at two of the transitions: one transition to a kitchen with a higher laminate floor (fake stone) and one transition to a living room with a laminate wood floor that's level with the tile.

QUESTION #1: Should I tile all the way to the wood / laminate floors, even with the 1.5" triangle tiles being much smaller than the rest?

QUESTION #2: How much gap (if any) should you leave between the different floor types?

QUESTION #3: If I do leave out the 1.5" triangles, should I just get a wider transition strip? The gap would be covered by a 3-inch or 4-inch wide transition. This would cut things a bit cleaner, since it would give the appearance of ending at a half-tile, rather than a small "nub" of a much larger tile.

QUESTION #4: What types of transition options would typically be used in something like this?

THANKS!

Scott

cellophane

A transition strip of some sort is the most common way of dealing with it. You can get metal, wood, tile (marble, faux stone etc) or vinyl / rubber. I have seen it left as a butt joint but I don't think it looks as nice unless your install is absolutely top notch and clean.

Something like these are fairly common.

rohman

I have done it both ways (with transition strip and with a but joint). It sounds like a but joint probably isn't best for your case as you would need to cut small triangles and that might not look right.

Either way you must leave space for the floor to expand and contract with the seasons, that is usually done by leaving a gap under the transition strip of 1/2"-3/4" and attaching the transition strip to only one surface (the hardwood in this case). If you do decide to leave it a butt joint make sure you use caulk between the floor and tile (silicone type that matches you grout is preferred $$$, but sanded latex will work)

rohman

I reread your post and noticed something I missed the first time through. Since you describe the wood as laminate an expansion gap is not necessary as plastic laminate doesn't move like real wood.

firehawkmph

The laminate floors still require a margin around them. If they get wet long enough, they will swell and buckle. Happened to a good friend of mine. He had it installed in his kitchen for few years. His icemaker line was leaking very slowly so he never noticed until the center of his floor buckled. Even after drying out it was ruined. Bad thing was he bought it on a closeout so he couldn't get any to just replace the damaged pieces. Had to redo the whole floor.
Mike Hawkins

JGibbsRemodel

Sounds like butting it could be the best for you....Would a 4" rip of tile be a good looking transition in this case? its what i usually try to do..