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Old 08-02-2008, 02:43 PM   #16
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We have our cement board already installed, we have no clue what to do as far as the corner gaps and the pitch for the drain. We thought we could do that after the cement board.
My husband does do 'outside' tile and patio work. So, he know how to do that.
Ceramic tile is different we know. Can anyone give us some pointers? I saw something a bout a liner, do we need this?HELP!!

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Old 08-02-2008, 02:54 PM   #17
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scott and darla,

The last time I made this suggestion on another forum I was accused of being rude and impolite but I'm going to do it again anyway.

You have jumped in the middle of someone else's thread and to continue your conversation here will only confuse everyone.

PLEASE go back and start your own thread and we will try to help you.

If you need some help starting a new thread check this out first:

How To: Post
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:58 PM   #18
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thank you
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Old 08-26-2008, 05:37 PM   #19
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Just Chiming in here because I'm in a similair situation! If you put the regard on the seams and over spackle, this gives you a waterproof seal. If the Hardibacker is Not waterproof, should we put a coat of the redgard over everything? Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:44 PM   #20
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I ended up putting the redgard everywhere I was tiling. creating a waterproof barrier. One tip though, Make sure you put a line where the tile is going to end and you will start your paint and when you peel the tape make sure you take a utility knife to the edge of the tape to prevent peeling. I just kinda threw the redgard everywhere and it was pretty hard to sand down in certain spots that were to be painted. Thats just what I did and I am by no means a professional.
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Old 08-28-2008, 08:00 PM   #21
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Is it BETTER to use thinset in a tub surround than to use mastic?? We used a vinyl mastic for our kitchen backslpash and it worked great. I don't see any speak of that here? Would it be a bad idea to use mastic in a bathroom?
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Old 08-29-2008, 06:56 PM   #22
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From my various conversations on this website I have taken back that it is better to use a fortified thinset rather than mastic in this situation. I can't recall the exact reasoning, but I think it had something to do with the wet environment. Please Bud or another tile expert could you chime in on this? I would like to know for future reference.
Thanks Guys
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:42 AM   #23
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The general consensus is that thinset is best used in wet areas such as showers and tub surrounds. Mastic is fine for dry areas.

Some of the mastic manufacturers in an effort to grab market share say their products are suitable for showers when in fact there are many horror stories about mastics re-imulsifying under conditions of repeated water application and migration.

The mastics of today are not the same as the mastics of yesterday. Proponents of mastic use in wet areas can argue all they want but when the V.O.C.'s were removed by the government mandates the products changed for the worse. Mastics are also much much more costly for no good reason other than they are slightly more convenient to use.
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:55 AM   #24
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OK! What type of consistency should I go for when mixing the thinset? I would guess that if its too "runny", it will take longer to set? How long do you think I need to hold the tiles in place before I can let them go without falling off? THANKS
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Old 08-30-2008, 11:42 AM   #25
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Pretty slick there insulatorpro, you totally hijacked this thread and no one noticed.

You also haven't mentioned what size/type of tile you are planning to use. The thinset manufacturers have mixing instructions on all their packaging, I think you 'll find it under "Mixing Instructions".

Some tile must be stacked on spacers to dry while other tiles contain their own spacers, so until we know what type tile you are using can't help you there much.

With thinset you won't be able to hold the tiles for a while then let go they will have to be suitably stacked for a day or so. Now someone will disagree saying you could use "non-sag thinset". Don't buy into that circus. Stack your tiles and they'll be there (where you put them) when you come back tomorrow.
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Old 08-30-2008, 12:30 PM   #26
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Thanks! And sorry. Wasn't trying to "hijack" this thread. I'm just in the exact situation and used the rest of the info in the beginning as well. I'm sure this will also be helpful to everyone. The tiles I'm using are 3x3 connected in a 12" square. I'm tiling from the top of the tub up about 20". They are porcelin tiles. By stacked you mean????
THANKS
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:25 PM   #27
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OK got it!

Be careful when you apply those sheets. They will require a spacer not only between the sheets but also between each tile within a sheet but only in a vertical direction.

I would also recommend you stagger each sheet. For example: Lay your first row of "sheets" left to right. Then on the next row up, line up the tiles but split a sheet so that the edge of the sheet doesn't fall were the edge of the previous sheet below it fell. (In brickwork this known as a "running bond".) Otherwise you could have a wall that looks as if you used 12" sheets. ((Which of course you did but you don't want the sheets to show when the wall is grouted))

Assuming you are going a little higher than 21 inches you can probably use full tiles up and down, right?

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