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Old 03-05-2011, 07:47 PM   #16
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


I won't allow this post to turn into a big argument---

As a pro,our duty is to suggest the best methods to produce a satisfactory job--

Offering suggestions that are a know cause of failure does no one a service.

Please keep that in mind---Mike---

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Old 03-05-2011, 11:12 PM   #17
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


The OP's time and budget doesn't allow for doing the job correctly so you guys think it's OK to offer substandard advice that is doomed to fail???

Ridiculous!!!

I don't get people these days...

Some of us spend our time trying to help others and trying to raise the bar a little for every one's benefit and guys like you come along and simply limbo under the bar. You guys raise mediocrity to a new level.

OK, you have the last word I'm done with this nonsense.
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:38 AM   #18
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


Bud,

Why can't you install cement board over a freshly installed subfloor with thinset between? I'm about to start a project shortly, and thats how I've read it in almost 5+ sources..Whats wrong with it?
I have my joists, my advantech TG subflooring (glued and screwed) and 1/4 cement board..Whats wrong?
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:15 AM   #19
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


Sugar----The OP wanted to go over hardwood flooring. The hardwood strips move to much throughout the year and would very likely lead to premature failure of the tile work.

Installing backer board over plywood is the recommended method---mike
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:22 PM   #20
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


OK...very annoying. For some reason I can't display page 2 of responses. I may not be able to see this, but I'll give it a try anyway.

Didn't mean to cause a small battle over industry standards before and I should have clarified what I was wondering about. I was already planning on screwing down every loose board (and darn near every other board while I was at it) at each joist with 2" coated exterior screws. I was looking at gluing and screwing 9/32" plywood over the t&g and using this as a substrate for thinsetting either 1/4" Hardibacker (which my local HD carries) or 1/8" Ditra (which it does not-I'll need to source this elsewhere). The Hardibacker might kill my clearance and make Ditra the only option- I would need to create a mock up and test the clearance. The existing floor is very solid (no squeaks, and the planks are tight together) so would this plywood layer be enough? Would I be better off doing a 15/32" ply for the additional structural stability and thinsetting the tile directly onto that?

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Old 03-07-2011, 09:10 PM   #21
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


cep89, woodman58 and all,

Look guys, you're wrong, Bud is right. We can't, (shouldn't) give people the idea that doing a project contrary to industry norms is OK if time or money is a factor, or any other reasons actually. When is time and money not a factor?

We tell them the right way as we know it from our experience and reading of the methods. Some people are gonna miss something or cut corners anyway. So let's start them on the right path. What we say is like Gospel to some, don't tell them wrong.

It would also be helpful if those who give advise also give their bio or offer ways to be contacted, such as phone numbers, the name of their company or website where applicable. I'd also like to know your name, first name is fine, that would give you credibility.

Jaz
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:37 AM   #22
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


You don't always have to comment to help; sometimes you can help by keeping your comments to yourself.

And, industry standards change every day ... people invent things that other people replace with better inventions.

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Old 03-08-2011, 08:14 PM   #23
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Alright, I'll try again. My other lumber store carries 1/4" BC Plywood marked "underlayment". Would this be a suitable substrate for thinset and backerboard once it's glued/screwed to the existing floor?
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:33 PM   #24
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


1/4 is to thin--it gets wavy when the thinset hits it---3/8 is the thinest acceptable for underlayment in a tile job. Exterior glue--
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:49 PM   #25
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


Scout,

As Mike said, 1/4" ply is never OK in a tile installation sandwich. It's too thin and therefore adds very little strength, plus much of it is luaun and so no good. 3/8" B/C underlayment is the thinnest we recommend.

Also, underlayment is NOT glued to the subfloor. You'd probably use glue from a tube and so it's thick which could create voids in the floor. There is no reason to glue ply to subfloor. Fasten only to the subfloor and of course use screws that will not penetrate the joists, just the subfloor.

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Old 03-09-2011, 08:55 PM   #26
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


One one hand I want to ignore this thread because someone may take what I say out of context. As for a bio, I am a mechanic and a DYI homeowner. I work on cars that have been modified or repaired in ways that are not manufacturer recomended, sometimes it makes me money fixing what they have done and other times modifications they have done are working just fine. I, being a pro have to fix it right, per manufacturer spec. The owner of the car can do what he wants to his car. This is how inventions happen. The idea a gave scout would not cause a saftey issue and might work, it might not last, but as long as I told him it is not the right way to do it, it is up to him. I have to give credit to Oh Mike and Jaz because they tell why it is wrong and what might happen, which is helpfull.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:05 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cep89 View Post
. I have to give credit to Oh Mike and Jaz because they tell why it is wrong and what might happen, which is helpfull.

Thank you for that---Most pros here try to give the 'Why" along with the 'How".

Then the home owner can weight the risks of going with a plan that is not
"The best way"---but ,perhaps, "The only way"

---Mike---
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:36 PM   #28
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Tile subfloor - clearance issue


I know that you said time and budget do not permit resetting the front door. Then you get lots and lots of comments about what NOT to do. Well, it looks like all acceptable options (according to the experts) can not solve the clearance problems!

So let's try and see whether there is another way. I have two ideas that could work. I don't care whether they are shot down in flames because I am not investing my own time ot money.

1. Just bite the bullet and reset the front door. There may be a lot of reasons not to do this. For example, if it is set in brick, it may be much too difficult. But it could be easier and cheaper than replacing the subfloor!
2. Install a threshold-cap at the bottom of the doorway and cut off the bottom of the door to get around the clearance problem. If you can not find a suitable item at your building supply store, make one up yourself.

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