Tile after new subfloor

Subcooled · 02-19-2011, 11:48 AM

Repairing my bath subfloor after extensive dry rot. We have decided to install tile when the floor is done.

I've read lot's of different opinions here and would like to narrow it down for my application.

There was 1 1/8" T&G with a 3/8" fiberboard underlay then carpet.

I replaced the 1 1/8" T&G with new T&G same size. ( 48" span floor)
What should I use for underlayment for the tile? Do I put wood underlayment then backer board or just backer board, the thinset and tile. What about a vapor barrier for the floor (73 ranch style with crawl)

Bud Cline · 02-19-2011, 12:54 PM

All that is required now is a suitable tilebacker product. Understand that all tilebackers are to be installed in a fresh bed of thinset mortar and then immediately fastened to the substrate.

The thinst bed is most important.

JazMan · 02-19-2011, 01:48 PM

I wanted to add that we are assuming the 1 1/8" t&g is subfloor grade plywood and not planks. If you had the room it wouldn't hurt to add more ply, probably will be OK without it as long as the tiles are not natural stone.

Also note that although we know people with that type of framing have had good luck with tile installation, you will not find a spec when the joists spacing is over 24". You're on the left coast right?

As far as vapor barriers because of the crawl space, we can only recommend you do what is suggested for your area.

Jaz

Bud Cline · 02-19-2011, 01:55 PM

Jaz,
I bow to your keen perception. Two good "catches" there.

Quote:

( 48" span floor)

I missed that entirely. This may call for extra measures.

Quote:

...assuming the 1 1/8" t&g is subfloor grade plywood and not planks.

Another good catch. If the subfloor is planks then plywood would be required.

JazMan · 02-19-2011, 05:38 PM

Thanks Bud, sometimes our eyes get a bit blurry.

OK, you're on your own starting tomorrow. I'm away for a few days.

Jaz

Bud Cline · 02-19-2011, 09:41 PM

Enjoy!

Subcooled · 02-20-2011, 01:58 AM

Thanks for the replies. I did forget to mention that the old was 48" span but no longer as I installed 16 OC and 2 x 6 flat where the tile shower will go and various other locations . Now have lot's of support.

the new floor is 1 1/8" t&g subfloor grade plywood.

Subcooled · 02-20-2011, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud Cline

All that is required now is a suitable tilebacker product. Understand that all tilebackers are to be installed in a fresh bed of thinset mortar and then immediately fastened to the substrate.

The thinst bed is most important.

Bud, what is your preference brand for tilebacker product?

Bud Cline · 02-20-2011, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Bud, what is your preference brand for tilebacker product?

I've used them all over the years of course.

Of the traditional grey colored cement boards I always preferred Permabase. Permabase always seemed to me to have superior quality control in their finished product and the tapered edges were always consistent in shape and size.

I also have used a lot of Hardibacker and actually prefer it over the Permabase, again because of edge consistency.

Then a few years ago along came the Green-E board which is what I have progressed to. Green-E is lighter weight than the others and it truly does cut as easy as drywall. It is white in color but green in construction.

And...according to the maker you can staple it (using the correct staples and air adjustments) to the substrate.

Those are boards. The absolute best tile underlayment to ever come down the pike is Schluter's DITRA. When I can cover the cost DITRA is my choice hands down.