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Old 11-12-2008, 10:28 PM   #106
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


It does have a 25 year warranty, which is about 20 years longer than I plan on living in this house.

So, as long as it looks good for a few years, that's all I care about.


Last edited by JoeClark; 11-13-2008 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 11-13-2008, 11:29 AM   #107
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Quote:
I can rip the wearlayer with my hands
Well, stop doing that!

Quote:
The box stores have run many small lumber yards out of business and brought more chinese wood to our shores than should ever be here.
Lumber yards fault.....
It's easy to compete with the big box stores...any lumber yard that goes out of business did not adapt-

Quote:
They get small companies with great products, then get them to sign contracts that they will not sell to other retailers.
Which is a good thing because.....

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The design series is sold only to the wholesalers and retailers it will never be available at HD.
And that's why it's easy to compete with the big box stores
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:18 PM   #108
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


I agree and disagree.....
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:53 PM   #109
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Let me know if you feel like elaborating on this.
The sales section is a good place to post a new thread.
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Old 11-16-2008, 11:57 AM   #110
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


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Originally Posted by 26yrsinflooring View Post
Traffic master has a 4 mil wearlayer it is a Konecto product but it is so cheap they only sell it to Home Depot.

On a scale of 1-10 it gets a 3 for quality, wearability.

You will never see these at Home Depot:

The next line that is availabe is the: Country Collection from Konecto.
It has 6 mil wearlayer and a urethane finish.
I rate this a: 5

The second line availble: Sierra Plank from Konecto.
It has a 12 mil wearlayer and urethane finish.
I give this a:7

The best line that is available is: Prestige Plank from Konecto.
This has 12 mil wearlayer and a Aluminum Oxide finish.
This gets a Perfect: 10

In reply:
1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece.
Measure the room and find the straightest most visible wall; start here.
The floor will square of itself only, just like laminate after you get the first two rows down remeasure to confirm you are straight as you can be.You can adjust at this point if required.

2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
A simple utility knife, you can score it and break it.( If it is allure you can breathe on it and it will fall apart)

3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
You will not get much glue on the knife it you do some simple mineral spirits will work. These floor must acclimated on the room they will be laid in at 65-85 degrees for 48hours before installation and 48hours post install do not deviate or it could lead to floor failure!

4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
A speed square, very handy!

5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
Make a cardboard template for each stair it will be worth the trouble.

6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
Work your corner and long side first sometimes the planks ends will be slight uneven but that is very normal and within tolerances.

7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right,
Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk.
Always start with the glue side out or you will have issues.you want to lay the plank into the gluestrip.If you try to come from under it will drive you nuts!
Do not feel like fool these are all good questions.

I second the Kudos to her!
I am new to this forum and appreciate the depth and detail of your answers.

We are considering Allure in a manufactured home we bought that has flooring challenges.

In the kitchen, they had very cheap linoleum with numerous tears/flaws. We pulled it up and have been walking on the subflooring until we had the funds to put down something better. The living room has cheap carpeting also in need of replacement. These two rooms run together, so we will probably put the same flooring over the entire area to have a consistent look.

We had a flooring place come out for an estimate, and it ended up about $6.85/sq. ft. for a laminate that supposedly was about $2.64/sq. ft. --- way out of budget. This price DID NOT include any change to the subflooring which they said needed to be replaced in its entirety.

Granted, the sub-flooring is cheap particle board, but the linoleum we removed seemed to work okay on it (the damage was from lack of care... tearing, etc). It has a good bit of texture on the surface and is not as flat as a sheet of plywood is, but it still seems drastic to have to replace it. Will Allure or laminates work okay installed over top of the existing sub-floor without the need to replace it? If this sub-floor does need some preparation, isn't there a cheaper alternative than replacement? If so, what would an experienced floor person recommend?

I would appreciate the opinions of those of you who know flooring... I'm dangerous with a hammer and a screw driver and am not Mr. Fix-It by any means, but cost and necessity require doing this job as economically as possible.

I tried doing a private message, but because I didn't have 20 postings on this forum it wasn't allowed.
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Old 11-16-2008, 02:14 PM   #111
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Can you post some pictures ?
It greatly help us the see the flooring issues.
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Old 12-05-2008, 09:56 PM   #112
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


We recently installed Trafficmaster Allure in a fix and flip investment property...I think it had a lot to do with it selling in less than 2 weeks and certainly had a lot to with our getting a profit.
On the plank flooring I got varnish stripper on four different planks of the hickory and did not notice it until after a little while it ate through the top layer and left big white spots. We removed 4 planks very carefully and were able to get the adhesive apart without damage and replace it with new planks. I would HIGHLY recommend it for rentals over sheet vinyl where you have to replace the whole room for one spot!
We had been going to have tile layed but cut that and saved a lot of money. It looked awesome in the bathrooms (dark tile type) but the kitchen (dark hickory) looked great was almost impossible to keep the dusty footprints off of. EASY to install!

Last edited by smartolgal; 12-05-2008 at 10:02 PM. Reason: unfinished
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Old 12-13-2008, 08:18 PM   #113
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


The Aug 2008 post by floorgal has a caution about homes with large temp swings, as the glue could fail. Even small temp swings might also cause failure. I installed 25 boxes of Allure in a foyer, family room, kitchen and small half bath in a home we were remodeling for sale. Before installing, I called Halstead to ask if there were any restrictions on how long a floor cold be-they said no. I called twice to be sure. I spread the boxes out in the various rooms and let them acclimate for a week. It took about 20 hours total to get it all down over three days due to lots of wall protrusions, closets, etc. I found the installation though to be a real breeze. I would never be able to get such a fine fit with sheet vinyl due to all the wall changes. I used a 100lb roller after every days work, rolling in each direction. The finished flooring was just beautiful-I could not belive how good it looked. There were no gaps between the planks. I've never seen a vinyl floor that looked so good-and I'd bet very few laminate floors could beat it-and Allure is fine for kitchens and baths. Couple months later the problems started. Outside temps changed from the 90's to the 70's. The floor I installed the Allure on is over a full unheated basement. The temp in the basement likely dropped 5 degrees, and the temp in the empty house likely dropped from the high 70's to the low 70's. Large gaps started opening up in planks near the 5 ft entryway from the foyer to the family room. Amazingly, smaller gaps starting opening up in several random locations-some between individual planks only 12-18 inches from the walls!! This in rooms with NO furniture as the home was vacant. Halstead send a tech out to review the floor. He concluded many of the planks had failed do to some kind of manufacturing defect, and verified the installation was done exactly right. He did some precise measurements and found some planks had actually shrunk while the adjacent planks did not. In two locations, the width of a plank actually shrank a little, but the plank it butted against did not, which left a small but noticable difference. Clearly, the glue did not have the strength to keep the entire floor as "one piece" as contraction occured due to temp drop of a few degrees. Halstead, thru Home Depot, refunded the entire amount I spent, but of course not the cost of labor. Now that the outside temps have dropped into the teens at night, the basement is likely 10-15 degrees cooler that the summer temps when I installed the floor. The gaps in the entryway between the foyer and family room are very large-like 3/16 inches. UGH!!! Since the home will likely still be vacant next spring due to housing recession, I might be able to salvage the thing by putting an expansion joint between the foyer and family room after the floor expands again w/higher outside temp, and re-rolling the floor. If I was convinced the lot I bought was defective, I'd put it on our residence in a heartbeat-which I was planning to do. But then, my home has a crawl space under the floor which will have a 10-20 degree temp spread between summer and winter.
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Old 12-21-2008, 09:10 AM   #114
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


This floor seems to be hit or miss, for me it was a hit. I installed it in September, last week I lost power for 36 hours, the inside temp was 37 degrees and the floor didn't seem to contract or expand at all.

Maybe because it is over concrete the floor temp stays consistant or changes slowly?

The reason I used this flooring is because the concrete floor in my breezeway was too uneven for any laminate. If I had a choice I would have gone with laminate, even the cheaper stuff seems to last.
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Old 01-03-2009, 08:42 AM   #115
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


My wife and I just installed this product 3 days ago. I took extra time to prep the room to make it easier to install. I first took a blow dryer to the "ruts" in the vinyl caused by the weight of the fridge. (The hair dryer WILL BE your BEST FRIEND on this project). They will shrink out from the heat. Then after I removed the baseboards, I Used a hand saw that had a flat blade flush to the floor and I cut the bottom part of the door jambs so I could just slide it under them for a nice fit with NO difficult cutting or shaping. I also cut a section of the baseboard that transitioned into the next room that was to stay carpeted. Next I took a little time to study the room layout so I knew exactly where I would end and how each piece was related to the next. This is crucial because you don't want to get all the way to the end only to find out you should have done something different! Also make sure you have a good sharp blade in your cutter and change the blade out a few times to make your cuts easier. As you lay them out make sure the corner of the "tile" goes into the corner of the piece laid down and then the short edge should butt up. As you lay the length down try to get it a little tight so you have to use your other thump to lay the meeting edges down and there is no gap between the pieces on either side. If you lay it down and there is a gap or they don't meet right then just use your hair dryer to heat up the joints and slowly separate them. Then you can relay it. You can also heat up the joints and "slide" the pieces together tighter. Measure often and make sure you put ALL of your cut edges to the wall! I would measure and lay my first piece in each row, then measure the remaining distance to the wall so I knew exactly how long to cut each row and each piece. It took longer to lay this floor than we'd expected, but as I said, we did a bit of prep work and took our time to do it right. We actually came up a box over what we thought we'd need because we watched our cuts and measurements closely. And I would highly recommend you invest in a few things for this job:
1. A flush saw to cut your door jambs
2. A good razor knife/cutter with extra blades (titanium stay sharper lon
ger)
3. A carpenter's "T" or square (preferably 2 ft for cutting length)
4. A tape measure and pencil not pen
5. KNEE PADS! Trust me!


It took my wife and I 10-12 hours total from prep-in' to step-in' on the floor. I love the floors, and highly recommend them to anybody! I look forward to years of use.
Oh, and by the way... The instructions for these floors were tucking nicely in the box....UNDER THE PRODUCT! And since I pulled from several boxes at once to avoid any variations in color between boxes, I didn't find them until the floor was already HALF WAY DOWN!!!
Good Luck and "good job"!
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Old 01-03-2009, 10:13 AM   #116
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


This has been a great thread.

We are converting our carport into a bedroom/sitting room for my father-in-law. Can we put this directly on the wooden sub-floor? Do we need any type of underlayment? We are raising the floor to equal the rest of the house, so no concrete is involved.

Thanks!
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Old 01-03-2009, 10:31 AM   #117
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


No underlayment is required for any Konecto product.
There many suppliers trying to sell it as if you need and they have fooled many people and made a lot of money off it.
Konecto developed the product only for a sound abatement barrier in upstairs apartments as this was required by code in most states.

I have a letter from Konecto that suggest the optimum install is directly over the given substrate without and sub barrier.

We leave the choice to the customer.With the money they save on underlayment that is not required they can upgrade the flooring to the better quality.
The allure is the bottom of the barrel with a 4 mil wearlayer the better options you will only find at places other than the box stores.
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Old 01-03-2009, 04:10 PM   #118
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Quote:
And I would highly recommend you invest in a few things for this job:
1. A flush saw to cut your door jambs
2. A good razor knife/cutter with extra blades (titanium stay sharper lon
ger)
3. A carpenter's "T" or square (preferably 2 ft for cutting length)
4. A tape measure and pencil not pen
5. KNEE PADS! Trust me!

It took my wife and I 10-12 hours total from prep-in' to step-in' on the floor. I love the floors, and highly recommend them to anybody! I look forward to years of use.
Oh, and by the way... The instructions for these floors were tucking nicely in the box....UNDER THE PRODUCT! And since I pulled from several boxes at once to avoid any variations in color between boxes, I didn't find them until the floor was already HALF WAY DOWN!!!
Good Luck and "good job"!
[/QUOTE]

Good Luck on the floor staying nice. I am glad it seems to be working so far.

What I find very frustrating is that this person used a product that is not supposed to be the quality of the Konecto. We even bought the middle of the road Konecto to have the "quality". We did more than this person to install and ours is still failing. This person does not mention the use of a hand roller or 100 pound roller and we did use those plus many other additional steps. Quite obvious ours is "AN ADHESIVE ISSUE"!!
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Old 01-04-2009, 05:10 PM   #119
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


so how's it hold up to a big dog?? Mine is 120lbs. I am looking to cover a badly damaged wood floor, thanks puppy, with something that won't change the height too much at the stair case. don't want to rip out the wood floor because someone else without the big dog might like to refinish the original floor (1933)

Anyone?
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:35 AM   #120
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


I Think it could hold its own with a big dog. We moved the fridge and stove across it, and it has a slight shinny spot where they slid across the flooring, but you can only see it in the light. The cool thing about this flooring is that if it does get badly damaged, you can just pull out your handy hair dryer and heat up the seams to pull out the damaged section and replace it (keep the extra for future use/repairs). It is a vinyl product, so it is pretty darn "resilient" (as they call it.) You might want to talk to your vet about keeping your dogs nails trimmed back as much as possible to avoid damage to the flooring in your home. Good luck!

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