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Old 06-29-2009, 04:29 PM   #196
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


All I can say is I should have done this a year ago. I had reservations about buying it but boy was I wrong. This floor is fantastic. We got the ceramic tilie looking floor. Installation could not be easier. I installed some Pergo-like flooring a year ago and that was a pain in the neck to deal with. With the Allure flooring you just stick it down next to the last one and they hold great.

The floor is beautiful. I love that it is solid rubber material. It is very strong and is impervious to water. The other Pergo-like flooring has already swelled up and split in two places from water puddling. I would never put that kind of flooring down again. I installed this whole floor in about 3 hours and it looks like a pro did it and I am as a far from a pro at flooring as they get.

Buy the Trafficmaster Allure flooring. You will not be sorry.

Kevin

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Old 06-29-2009, 05:02 PM   #197
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Hello Sleighbor:

Good to hear you like the Allure Trafficmaster. I have yet to install in basement on concrete. I am still figuring out some layout challenges due to the basement not being just a rectangular room wall to wall. There is a half wall extending into the room, a small entry "hall" into the room and then a bathroom into which the planks will go. Just need to figure out some things. Also, I am concerned about some water seepage getting under the installed floor setting up possible trapping of mold. Also, I have read where using water proof, double sided carpet tape on first starter row is a good thing ... don't know. How did your installation go, any challenges?
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:19 AM   #198
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Several years ago I had Bruce preengineered flooring installed. I have been very disappointed with it. It has not held up and looks terrible. About a month ago I had a leak from my air conditioner that has ruined my flooring. Since I cannot refinish the floor, I have considered Allure. I also have a 17 1/2 year old dog and there are times when she cannot make it out side. All things considered, I think Allure would be a good choice for me.

I read that you could not install it over plank floors. Will I have to tear up the old preengineered floor?

Last edited by mbdolly; 07-04-2009 at 01:30 AM.
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:29 AM   #199
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


It is a floating floor completely sealed, I don't see why you could not install it over a plank floor. It just sits on top of the existing floor.
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Old 07-04-2009, 03:23 AM   #200
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


I've just read through the entire thread and still have some questions that no one has answered.

1. My Corfu tiles are acclimating to my bathroom right now, but they've been in my living room for the last 48 hours. The two rooms have been at a fairly consistent temperature (72-77ish) and I have had the thermostat/air conditioner running for two days. Do I still need to wait another 48 hours?

2. As I understand it, the floor is supposed to float, with a 1/8 inch gap at the walls/baseboards. My floor will be in a bathroom up against walls, a tub, nothing (doorway), and cabinets. In order to make it waterproof for a bathroom, silicone was recommended around the edges. Do I silicone ALL the way around or just at the tub, walls, cabinets? How can the floor 'float' if all the sides are siliconed, let alone of the toilet sits on it? Is sylicone pliable enough to allow for temp fluctuations? If I put shoe moulding on everything, will that affect the breathing/contraction/expansion as well as the waterproofing factor?

3. I originally had nasty old glued down carpet in my bathroom that I ripped up to find nasty old vinyl under that. The carpet was so old that it left the vinyl floor covered in old black foamy carpet glue (you know the type?). The vinyl was coming up in the corners anyway, so rather than scrape the carpet glue off of the old vinyl for two days, I pulled it up to see what was under that and I could see ye old subfloor (this is a second story bathroom). The vinyl flooring split as I was prying it up with a metal scraper, so I continued around the room like that, until I got all of the hard top part up, leaving the thin layer of gluepaper from the vinyl flooring over the rougher subfloor. Now the floor is 95% gluepaper, with a few of the edges showing 3-4" spots of the rougher subfloor where all the gluepaper came up. The paper is nice and smooth, whereas the subfloor spots are old and splintery, so it doesn't make sense to scrape up the nice smooth surface to reveal an even rougher subfloor when it is so thin.
First, I'm worried, after reading this thread, that ye old vinyl floor tile (not sure how old it was), was asbestos and I've just exposed my barehanded self to it- what are the implications? If it is asbestos, would 'waterproofing it' with a silicon boarder make it safe?
Second, I'm worried about the slightly higher height of the glue paper vs. the slightly lower bare subfloor spots. But it's not like tacks or nails sticking out, like some people have posted. The areas of exposed subfloor are all less than 1/8" lower- also they are on just a few edges where people will not stand (and behind the toilet). Would it be fine to lay Allure over that or do I need to fill those areas in with something?

4. Last, is it me or does it seem like the people who used a pressure roller are mostly the ones who had the seams come up?

Last edited by gatogreensleeve; 07-04-2009 at 03:55 AM. Reason: Clarity
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:37 PM   #201
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


I can answer some of the questions. I removed ceramic tiles in the kitchen, they were put on cement backer board which was shredded and full of nails and glued to the sub floor, would have taken forever to remove it so I pulled up the nails, and laid 1/4 masonite over it rough side up to even it out. I nailed it down with a 18ga finish nailer. It wasnt perfect but way better than what was there. Now you would never know how bad the floor was under it.
As far as the asbestos. Its not solid abestos thats bad, its the dust. Tile is solid as long as its covered and you dont have dust you should be alright, just make sure you water sprey the floor to settle the dust then clean up with a mask on, dont use a vaccuum.
My son had asbestos wrapped pipes, I checked with the city and it was permissible to cover them with plastic so it would not allow the dust to fall off it, So we wrapped and duct taped them wearing plastic suites and masks.
I never sealed the tile edges with silicon, but I also dont expect to get so much water it will make it to the edges either. You dont need to seal it to keep the possible asbestos tile sealed as there wont be any dust.
I never used a roller the wife and I shuffled our feet over it wearing towles on the feet to make sure it was sealed. Its been down a year without any troubles.
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Old 07-04-2009, 03:15 PM   #202
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Thanks for the informative reply. Crap, I've already vaccuumed. Why no vaccuum? Do I need to throw out the bag? It was only dusty when I tried to scrape/chisel down the edges of the glue paper to make it more even.

As for sealing, I'm worried about moisture getting underneath, not just from spilled water directly, but from bathroom steam over time.

As for asbestos, I would be equally afraid to spray it with water before laying this on top. Wouldn't it take forever to dry properly and invite a mold issue if I covered it while still wet??
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Old 07-04-2009, 05:17 PM   #203
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


I meant spray it with water before you vacuum it up so it doesn't create more dust and stays down. If it was vinyl It shouldn't have asbestos in it. There was asbestos floor tile but it didn't have any vinyl.
Read this: http://www.inspect-ny.com/sickhouse/asbestoslookB.htm
If you have asbestos tile than the vacuum bag should not be throne out, it should be taken to a hazard waste site with the old tile. Double bag it in plastic bags first. Then wash down the outside bag. You would also have already broken the law in most states by removing it yourself.

Of course if it was asbestos and you had to clean it up then let the water dry before you put the Allure down. I don't think you will get moisture under the Allure at the edges unless there is standing water. If the house is on a foundation and your worried about moisture then put a sheet of plastic under the allure. It will aslso seal the asbestos. Personally I wouldn't bother. However I am not an expert. Call Traffic master with your concerns.
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Old 07-04-2009, 05:38 PM   #204
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Thanks again Larrywill, that helps a lot. Asbestos issue resolved. Unfortunately, their support line is closed for the weekend. After reading the instructions: http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...d024ec4d3b.pdf , I have another question: In the instructions and multiple posts here, we are told to cut off the top/overlaying glue strip that goes against the first wall (figure #2), yet in the illustrations (figures #3 and #6), they leave the top/overlaying glue strip on against the other wall. Why? Why don't we/ can't we put a strip under that (the one we cut from the other side), so it doesn't dip at the wall (such as is suggested for replacing individual damaged sections later in the instructions)? And doesn't this glue strip anchor the "breathing" floor? This is only an issue for me because it adds to the dip I'll already have from the glue paper not being on the edges in spots.

Last edited by gatogreensleeve; 07-04-2009 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 07-04-2009, 05:45 PM   #205
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


If you cut it at one wall you can use it under the other one wall to make it flat again, as you suggested, that's what I did. I also had to change directions in the L of the kitchen, so I cut a bottom glue strip off and used it as a transition strip. The glue strip should not touch the floor.
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:20 PM   #206
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


So when you started in a corner, you cut off one overlaying piece and put a strip under the other one to avoid the glue facing down on the other side (and all sides, really)? Why don't they say to do this in the instructions?
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:23 PM   #207
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


You would have to ask them.
I suppose If you cut off a strip you ruin the strip. I used scraps from end strips to do it. I don't think its necessary to do it but I did.
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:56 PM   #208
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


That's what I would use, in fact, I already have two planks that got dust in the glue on one side, so they would work for that. People, don't open the package until you are ready to work and surfaces are cleaned and dust free! This is really going to suck, considering the wierd angles I have to go around my cabinets and tub. Of the four walls in my bathroom, only about 25% of it total (and only on 3 sides) is actually baseboard moulding, the rest is special cutting. Blech!
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:14 PM   #209
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


Quote:
Originally Posted by 26yrsinflooring View Post
Traffic master has a 4 mil wearlayer it is a Konecto product but it is so cheap they only sell it to Home Depot.

On a scale of 1-10 it gets a 3 for quality, wearability.

You will never see these at Home Depot:

The next line that is availabe is the: Country Collection from Konecto.
It has 6 mil wearlayer and a urethane finish.
I rate this a: 5

The second line availble: Sierra Plank from Konecto.
It has a 12 mil wearlayer and urethane finish.
I give this a:7

The best line that is available is: Prestige Plank from Konecto.
This has 12 mil wearlayer and a Aluminum Oxide finish.
This gets a Perfect: 10

In reply:
1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece.
Measure the room and find the straightest most visible wall; start here.
The floor will square of itself only, just like laminate after you get the first two rows down remeasure to confirm you are straight as you can be.You can adjust at this point if required.

2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
A simple utility knife, you can score it and break it.( If it is allure you can breathe on it and it will fall apart)

3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
You will not get much glue on the knife it you do some simple mineral spirits will work. These floor must acclimated on the room they will be laid in at 65-85 degrees for 48hours before installation and 48hours post install do not deviate or it could lead to floor failure!

4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
A speed square, very handy!

5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
Make a cardboard template for each stair it will be worth the trouble.

6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
Work your corner and long side first sometimes the planks ends will be slight uneven but that is very normal and within tolerances.

7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right,
Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk.
Always start with the glue side out or you will have issues.you want to lay the plank into the gluestrip.If you try to come from under it will drive you nuts!
Do not feel like fool these are all good questions.

I second the Kudos to her!
You mentioned Konecto. We are considering putting Konecto Sierra Plank Flooring in our basement. I have read a lot of comments about problems with the planks separating and coming loose. Most of the comments are at least a year old. Do you have any recent knowledge if they improved the adhesive? My other concern is that since it is a floating floor, what happens if moisture gets under it. Will it create a perfect environment for mold to grow? I am concerned because if our sump pump goes out due to a power outage we get some water that comes up through a center drain from the underground drain tiles.

What is your opinion. Is there a better option for a basement floor?
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:31 PM   #210
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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?


I bought and installed this 3 or 4 weeks ago and I can still smell the adhesive. I'm actually thinking of ripping it up. I am trying to get in touch with the flooring manager at the Home Depot where I bought it to see if they are willing to refund my money or apply it towards a different floor product. It was not as easy as it seems it should be to install either. But I have to admit that I'm not the most accurate measurer and I seem to have difficulty cutting a straight line. I've noticed that there are some places where I didn't bump the two planks up quite close enough and there are minor gaps. If you just walk in the room (plug your nose) and glance at the floor, it does look good, if you look closely you'd see my installation errors but I can't really fault the product for that.

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