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Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?

1M views 849 replies 351 participants last post by  Firewalker 
#1 ·
I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor.

For anyone unfamiliar with this floor, it is a floating vynil floor that comes in planks similar to laminate. On one short and one long side of each plank, there is a piece of vynil sticking out roughly 1" with adhesive on it. The install is similar to a T-n-G type floor in that the pieces have to go in the correct direction. Every piece you install adheres to the previous pieces on 2 edges.

I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?
 
#15 ·
Trafficemaster Allure Vinyl Flooring--BAD Experience!!

Just wanted to share our horrible experience with this product to spare others the heartache and frustration we have had this past year. First the seams lifted, which eventually led to Halstead (the manufacturer) refunding our total amount spent on this product. Then upon removal of the product, we found solid MOLD growing under the flooring!! We had installed it in a "dry" walkout basement which is actually a foot above grade/ground level. We had carpet and padding down for 7 years with no moisture/mold issues. Now our cement subfloor has been compromised, and even after cleaning with bleach and water 3 times, we are still told by professionals to seal it with a mold inhibitor paint to prevent any mold spores that are still in the cement from growing in the future. In my opinion, based on our experience, this product has a flaw in it's application for use. It seems to set up conditions for moisture to be trapped and breed mold. You don't have this issue with carpet as it breathes, and you don't have this issue with traditional vinyl because it is glued completely to the subfloor or sealed around the perimeter. This product doesn't require any floor prep in it's install and it doesn't seal out air with any type of gluing down of the floor. In my opinion this allows air and moisture to be trapped under the vinyl, and presto! you have a science project growing in your home! I feel we were lucky to have the seam lifting issue which led to us removing the flooring from our home after only 8 months....what if we had left it for 5 years...can you imagine the mold levels that might have existed then?! Contact me if you want pictures!!!
 
#125 ·
Just wanted to share our horrible experience with this product to spare others the heartache and frustration we have had this past year. First the seams lifted, which eventually led to Halstead (the manufacturer) refunding our total amount spent on this product. Then upon removal of the product, we found solid MOLD growing under the flooring!! We had installed it in a "dry" walkout basement which is actually a foot above grade/ground level. We had carpet and padding down for 7 years with no moisture/mold issues. Now our cement subfloor has been compromised, and even after cleaning with bleach and water 3 times, we are still told by professionals to seal it with a mold inhibitor paint to prevent any mold spores that are still in the cement from growing in the future. In my opinion, based on our experience, this product has a flaw in it's application for use. It seems to set up conditions for moisture to be trapped and breed mold. You don't have this issue with carpet as it breathes, and you don't have this issue with traditional vinyl because it is glued completely to the subfloor or sealed around the perimeter. This product doesn't require any floor prep in it's install and it doesn't seal out air with any type of gluing down of the floor. In my opinion this allows air and moisture to be trapped under the vinyl, and presto! you have a science project growing in your home! I feel we were lucky to have the seam lifting issue which led to us removing the flooring from our home after only 8 months....what if we had left it for 5 years...can you imagine the mold levels that might have existed then?! Contact me if you want pictures!!!
before I use this product I'd love to see your photo's
 
#7 ·
Allure Vinyl Flooring

Here's the deal....

I work at a Home Depot in Columbus Ohio. I've been in flooring for a number of years and I know my stuff but Im always looking for ways to better educate my associates and my customers.

Recently I've been looking into the Allure vinyl flooring. We had a customer that bought around 50 boxes to do their whole first floor then got cold feet when it came time to install. Because this is considered a DIY product, our installers in this market will not install Allure Flooring.

Everything Ive seen on this product looks like it would be simple to install but the cust returned the floor and went with something else. Install aside, Im leery of the claim that the product is truly "water resistant".

What I would like to know is what everyone else thinks about Allure, good and bad. I've read a couple messages on the boards here so far so I know we already have a mixed bag.

Thanks for your time and your thoughts.
 
#651 ·
allure floor

i have put the floor down in my dinning room and it is great so far no problems got it from home depot in pittsburgh pa great sofar would use it again goes down easy stay down :thumbup:
Here's the deal....

I work at a Home Depot in Columbus Ohio. I've been in flooring for a number of years and I know my stuff but Im always looking for ways to better educate my associates and my customers.

Recently I've been looking into the Allure vinyl flooring. We had a customer that bought around 50 boxes to do their whole first floor then got cold feet when it came time to install. Because this is considered a DIY product, our installers in this market will not install Allure Flooring.

Everything Ive seen on this product looks like it would be simple to install but the cust returned the floor and went with something else. Install aside, Im leery of the claim that the product is truly "water resistant".

What I would like to know is what everyone else thinks about Allure, good and bad. I've read a couple messages on the boards here so far so I know we already have a mixed bag.

Thanks for your time and your thoughts.
 
#582 ·
To TLB2010 - an excellent, very coherent piece. Also, you obviously really read the booklet. I did kitchen last Sunday with no problems except being sore from getting down of anf off my knees (I am 69 years old). Cutting the material was not a problem. I used utility blade (used only two blades for 240 square feet) and sometimes large shears.

A comment to person who stated that he /she needed too many blades - do not use the tip of the blade; hold the knife handle a' 30 degrees as related to the surface of the material, do not press too hard and go over the line 2 times, then break the material by partially bending down and going from side-to side of the whole length of the cut. The material is made from two layers that are glued together. When the top layer breaks, bend the piece up to break the bottom one.

I used pencil to do the lines and did the cutting free hand . I find it easier than following some straight edge which would keep slipping on the material's surface.

Next will be large 4 season sun room for our French Bulldogs to frolic around.



 
#9 · (Edited)
No offense taken.

Allure is HD exclusive but the type of floor and the technology is not. There are several other, more expensive products that work the same way (although the names escape me for now... they're mentioned in another post on this site so I'll look 'em up real quick).

Here we go: Konectousa.com has a similar product in a larger variety of styles than HD. Armstrong also makes a similar product.
 
#10 ·
I have now done 3 installs of Allure. It is a relatively simple install. and looks nice when finished. My customers each chose it, and had me install. They are all pleased with the results. I believe it to be well within the average DIYer's ability to install. They will need a tap weasure, razorknife, speed square and straightedge and go for it.:yes:
 
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#843 ·
I have now done 3 installs of Allure. It is a relatively simple install. and looks nice when finished. My customers each chose it, and had me install. They are all pleased with the results. I believe it to be well within the average DIYer's ability to install. They will need a tap weasure, razorknife, speed square and straightedge and go for it.:yes:
I am going to lay some can it be laid on a hard commercial carpet
 
#12 ·
I have recently installed the Cherry Allure flooring in our basement, first thing "Heelys" the kid shoes with the roller wheels in the heel are a No -No! Our flooring now has skid marks that I cannot clean up at this moment. These skid marks are most noticeable on an angle as the light reflects upon the markings.

As for the installation it went real well. There has been no separation of the planks other than the ones that I had not placed very well. They can be removed (with patience so not to brake off the glue tabs) and re-installed, but you would have to do this prior to installing the next pieces or it becomes a bit of a project. There may be some edges that rise a bit which I applied my foot to press back down.

I can answer back later in more detail, I gotta run - Grandma's 94th B-day.

Tony M
 
#13 ·
Allure

I'll be undertaking this project as well. It's going in the basement and i'm not too concerned with it taking a beating. The real stuff is in my upstairs. I just can't believe HomeDepot.com wants to charge me 400 bucks online to ship the stuff. They're insane. I'll just purchase one of the few selections they have at my local shop. Currently it's only Cherry, Oak, Hickory and saw some Teak in there recently. Anyone install something that they liked? My family all seems to like the Cherry.
 
#349 ·
don't settle for what they have at the store...

I'm ordering the flooring through my local Home Depot. I ordered one box of the color I like (they have a brochure that shows all of the colors available--many more than what an individual store keeps in stock). After I get it and, hopefully like that one, I'm ordering the amount I need to be delivered to the store and I'll pick it up. That way I'm not paying for shipping or the higher price that I'd pay if I'd ordered it online. I think it will turn out to cost $1.99/sq ft. Can't beat that! Good luck!

I'll be undertaking this project as well. It's going in the basement and i'm not too concerned with it taking a beating. The real stuff is in my upstairs. I just can't believe HomeDepot.com wants to charge me 400 bucks online to ship the stuff. They're insane. I'll just purchase one of the few selections they have at my local shop. Currently it's only Cherry, Oak, Hickory and saw some Teak in there recently. Anyone install something that they liked? My family all seems to like the Cherry.
 
#18 ·
hd worker

To start off I work in the flooring department at Home Depot. As I read through all the comments posted I have to put in my two cents. Overall this is a great product. I sell this to a customer almost everyday I work. I have worked there for 1 year. And out of that year I have had 3 complaints. All 3 times it was the edges coming up. So you do the math. Any flooring or product, at that, will have somebody that is dissatisfied. In all actuallity the customer that said they installed it in a dry basement and they had a mold problem because the floor wouldn't breath, the basement obviously wasnt a dry basement to start with. I am not trying to bash on that person but they could have install a pergo that you put a plastic vapor barrier and had the same mold problem. All I am trying to say is that there is a risk with and product you buy but I have had more satisfied customers than dissatisfied ones.

PS. this is not a sales pitch, i hate my job. This is a opinion from a person that has it in there house and has seen this product bring satisfaction to many many people.
 
#31 ·
To start off I work in the flooring department at Home Depot. As I read through all the comments posted I have to put in my two cents. Overall this is a great product. I sell this to a customer almost everyday I work. I have worked there for 1 year. And out of that year I have had 3 complaints. All 3 times it was the edges coming up. So you do the math. Any flooring or product, at that, will have somebody that is dissatisfied. In all actuallity the customer that said they installed it in a dry basement and they had a mold problem because the floor wouldn't breath, the basement obviously wasnt a dry basement to start with. I am not trying to bash on that person but they could have install a pergo that you put a plastic vapor barrier and had the same mold problem. All I am trying to say is that there is a risk with and product you buy but I have had more satisfied customers than dissatisfied ones.

PS. this is not a sales pitch, i hate my job. This is a opinion from a person that has it in there house and has seen this product bring satisfaction to many many people.
I am glad you sent this. We live in a 4 level split, and we have an indoor hot tub in the lowest level. There are no windows as it is under ground level. It has leaked a few times, which created a bit of mold. We ripped up the lino and carpet, and I was thinking of putting the vinyl down on the concrete. It is a small space of 250 sq feet.What is your advice of this? Will it create more mold with the humidity? and what would you recommend otherwise? I really don't want to glue as we could lift it up if there was another leak.
 
#20 ·
flooring

I ASKED FOR HELP IN SEPT ON ALLURE FLOORING, BUT SINCE THAT I HAVE INSTALLED IT IN MY MANUFACTURED HOME IN THE KITCHEN AND LAUNDRY ROOM, IT WAS QUITE A JOB WITH A LOT OF CUTTING AS MY KITCHEN IN ROUND WITH A LOT OF ANGLES, WE LOVE IT GOT A LOT OF COMPLEMENTS ON IT. I MIGHT ADD THAT I AM A LADY OF 82 YEARS OLD AND DID ALL THE WORK BY MYSELF WITH A DISABLED HUSBAND. SO IF I CAN DO IT ANY ONE SHOULD BE ABLE TO. GOT THE BEST LOOKING KITCHEN FLOOR IN THE NEIGBORHOOD. :thumbsup:
 
#52 ·
Traffic master has a 4 mil wearlayer it is a Konecto product but it is so cheap they only sell it to Home Depot.

On a scale of 1-10 it gets a 3 for quality, wearability.

You will never see these at Home Depot:

The next line that is availabe is the: Country Collection from Konecto.
It has 6 mil wearlayer and a urethane finish.
I rate this a: 5

The second line availble: Sierra Plank from Konecto.
It has a 12 mil wearlayer and urethane finish.
I give this a:7

The best line that is available is: Prestige Plank from Konecto.
This has 12 mil wearlayer and a Aluminum Oxide finish.
This gets a Perfect: 10

In reply:
1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece.
Measure the room and find the straightest most visible wall; start here.
The floor will square of itself only, just like laminate after you get the first two rows down remeasure to confirm you are straight as you can be.You can adjust at this point if required.

2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
A simple utility knife, you can score it and break it.( If it is allure you can breathe on it and it will fall apart)

3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
You will not get much glue on the knife it you do some simple mineral spirits will work. These floor must acclimated on the room they will be laid in at 65-85 degrees for 48hours before installation and 48hours post install do not deviate or it could lead to floor failure!

4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
A speed square, very handy!

5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
Make a cardboard template for each stair it will be worth the trouble.

6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
Work your corner and long side first sometimes the planks ends will be slight uneven but that is very normal and within tolerances.

7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right,
Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk.
Always start with the glue side out or you will have issues.you want to lay the plank into the gluestrip.If you try to come from under it will drive you nuts!
Do not feel like fool these are all good questions.

I second the Kudos to her!
 
#76 ·
I cannot send a personal message as I have posted 20 times yet (I am new to this). I am considering purchasing allure since the konecto sierra Laporta that I want is kinda expensive. I have 1200 sq ft to floor. I got a quote from my local Carpet One but I have had several complaints from friends about installation and service and am kinda leary about using them. Please email me as I may never find my way back here
 
#80 ·
my thoughts on allure

i have been selling flooring products for over 16 years and have professionally installed for 7 years. yes, i do work at THD. but this is in no way meant to plug my company. First off, Trafficmaster Allure flooring is and has been the best selling flooring product in our store for more than nine months running now. As for the durability of this product, i have had numerous (almost daily) comments from DIYers and contractors on Allure. we have sold this product in our store for 1 1/2 yrs now and have had only three complaints- two was due to improper acclimation of the product and one was put done over concrete which showed signs of hydrostatic pressure (moisture weeping up). I have seen numerous concerns listed here and i will try to address them individually:
1. Sub-floor prep: hardly any is required. surfaces must be smooth and dry. if putting over bare concrete first do a moisture test- place a 2' x2' 6mil plastic over concrete and tape down around all edges. leave for a minimum of 72 hours. if condensation is present, you must seal your concrete. fill any voids or pits in the subfloor. if it is unlevel, try to level it within 1/8". this is a vinyl plank that will conform to uneven areas but for asthetics, it is best to level the floor.
2. laying the planks: YOU MUST ACCLIMATE THE PLANKS. this means you cannot buy them and install in the same day. you must take them home and put them in the room which they are to be installed for at least two days (48 hrs). TIP: if you are planning on installing this in rooms that are not or may not be at times climate controlled ( i.e. vacation homes, vacant rentals, etc) i do not suggest that you install this flooring as with extreme temperature changes ( no heat in the winter and no air in the summer) the glue on this product may fail causing the planks to separate. start your planks up against the wall. your very first row you should remove the glue strip from the underside (to understand this concept this is a floating floor hence, you don't want anything sticking to the subfloor) if you are not going wall to wall then it is ok to use double sided tape on the underside of the first row only. this is just to keep it straight as you are laying it. from your second row and throughout the whole area, you must stagger each plank a min of 8-12". this is so that the end joints are stronger and creates a better look. lay the flooring from left to right. you can use the cutoff pieces from the end (right) wall as long as they are at least 8-12" long. cutting them is a snap (literally). just score the topside using a straight edge and a SHARP utility knife. then snap the plank at the score line. it is best to roll the edges as you are installing this. you can use a kitchen rolling pin but i do strongly advise that you rent a flooring roller (70-100 lbs) after completing your install. also, leave a small gap around the perimeter of your floor where it meets up with any vertical surfaces such as walls or cabinets. baseboard or quater round will cover this nicely. 3. pets: this product will sustain most pets. if you have very large animals, just keep their claws trimmed. as for pet accidents- as long as the planks are installed tightly, you should not have a problem with staining or odor. 4. furniture: use felt pads, furniture coasters, etc. this is a vinyl floor which is not impervious to scratches or tears. i have even had one customer ( who is changing out all 26 of his rental properties with this product) tell me that he had placed a heavy chest freezer on this and after two days of removing the freezer, the indentions left by the feet came out! can't say that for all applications tho.
5. if putting down in water prone areas such as bathrooms, laundry rooms and kitchens- place a bead of silicone around the perimeter under the baseboards. this will help insure any standing water that may occur from toilets overflowing or busted pipes, etc. from penetrating under the flooring trapping the moisture and creating mold problems.

The great thing about this flooring is that it is very easy to install ( just ask the 82 yr old woman) it is completely water tight (when sealed around the perimeter with silicone) and very durable- can withstand most of todays active families- just don't let them walk around with cleats on or heelies as one person posted. but generally, for the price, the ease of installation and the look and feel, and the durabiltiy- this may be one of the best home improvements you can do by yourself!

sorry this was so long. thanks for reading. enjoy!
 
#278 ·
I understand about getting it wet underneath (as opposed to on top where it can evaporate). So in a bathroom, near a tub ... and with at least a 1/8 inch gap ... how do you prevent water from getting underneath the planks?
Your baseboards will cover the edges along the wall, and a strip of 1/4 molding with some silicone caulk will cover the edge by the tub.
There are a bunch of different ideas as far as sealing the gaps a few pages back in this thread.
 
#476 ·
Just installed it

Just installed the Teak planks in my hall (1st floor, above basement). Incredibly easy to put down--but very difficult to pull apart once stuck (which is probably a good thing for long life). I was able to pull one up and stick it back after getting a slight space between two, but it was not easy. I think carefully warming with a hair dryer would have made it easier. Floor looks magnificent; we'll see how long it holds up. At the price, and the ease of installation, you can afford to replace it in a few years if needed. Also, very low odor--I could hardly smell it; my wife noticed some smell, but not nearly as bad as new carpet or other vinyl flooring I've used.

For those who say it came apart--could have been due to getting dust or something on the glue--the slightest amount of dust or sawdust on the glue takes away all the "stickiness" immediately, and it is not recoverable. Do not leave this stuff in a room where you are sawing, sanding, etc, especially sheet rock, before putting it down--the glue will be ruined.
Keep a ready supply of knife blades; I went through three blades putting down 4 1/2 boxes.
 
#541 ·
The ones I have heard of with a "pattern", it was thought it was improperly stored. It was set on something or something was set on it causing the indentations.
 
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#580 ·
Allure TrafficMaster Vinyl plank flooring

22 months ago I laid this flooring in my kitchen. I purchased a premium underlayment product from Lowes because I was laying it on concrete that isn't exactly level throughout the room and I needed the vapor barrier as well as comfort and warmth underneath. The product I used is Precision Components Premium underlayment and it runs about $45 for 100 sq ft. I swear by the combination. I used 3/4 round trim around the edges that I purchased from Home Depot from the laminate flooring section (just take a plank and match the closest, it doesn't have to be exact because the angle of the light in the room is different from the floor laying flat). There are a few VERY IMPORTANT things to remember when laying this product, and are worth the extra effort.

1-You must leave the product in the house for at least 2 days to adjust to the temperature where it will be installed before using it. I open the boxes, but leave the planks in them.
2-You must leave 1/8 to 1/4 inch space between the flooring and the wall to allow for expansion (in the heat) and contraction (in the cold) to prevent buckling or seperation.
3-I didn't leave any adhesive edges around the walls, I trimmed it to the thickness of the plank -didn't want in unlevel under the quarter round.
4- When putting the quarter round down do not put it too tight against the floor (tight against the wall), you must not restrict the floor from being able to expand and contract as it needs to in the summer/winter (as explained in #2).
5- Keep a vaccum handy and keep all grit and dust off the product until you are done. Especially don't let anything (not even your fingers) get on the adhesive too much. I placed the paper inserts that come between the planks over and under the edge of the planks adhesive (as I was going) until I came back to that section of flooring.
6- Make sure the surface you are laying it on is free of lumps and bumps.

The underlayment has taped edges so it creates a great flat barrier. Like I said I installed this in my kitchen before I left for a job up north for 18 months. I just knew when I returned that I'd have to replace it due to my husband and dog, as the kitchen has the back door to our house and is a major traffic area and we live in sand...so I just knew the grit would rouin the flooring over time.

Much to my surprise it looks great. I clean it with Allure Single-step Cleaner & Polisher (get the right finish for the flooring you chose - I did the stain finish cherry, so I use soft satin finish cleaner, if you chose the shiny planks use the glossy one). I love it so much I went out yesterday and bought enough underlayment, flooring and quarter round to do my living room and hallway. Next I'll do my dinning room and foyer.

I will tell you something else I did. as I laid each piece I made sure it was as close as it could get (to prevent any grit from getting between it later) and I rolled it with the cabinet laminate roller as I went. After laying a section I would put on my socks and walk across it and slide along the seams. When I was done I had my husband help (since he is much bigger than me). I have had no seperation or buckling and we are both extremely happy with the product.

If you get anything sticky on it use an ice cube and rub it and use a rag to rub as you go and it will come right up. I got a little paint on mine, use a wet paper towel as soon as possible will get anything off the floor, but if you miss something that sits on there and dries, just use a box cutter and gently scrape it (with the grain) and it will come off without any damage. I'm telling you, for the money, the easy install, and durability you can not beat this product!!!!
 
#593 ·
I too have been wondering about going ahead with a project in my entrance hallway with Allure tile pattern flooring. I had actually planned this last year but fortunately the project got delayed. I say fortunately because I have learned a lot more regarding this product over the past year. Also, I have read this thread from beginning to end, boy what a long thread! And one thing that does become evident is that there is more problems when you put this down over concrete than anywhere else. My front entrance way is an interior concrete slab at grade level. Here is my research, for what it's worth. Hope it helps.

Last year when I talked to HD reps I was told not to put anything under this flooring or it would void the warranty. As I mentioned, I didn't get started on the project last year. Two weeks ago I was in HD picking up some supplies in preparation to do the job now. The sales rep happened to mention that I should put 6 mil polyethylene underneath the Allure since it was going down onto concrete. I was taken by surprise by this and said that I thought nothing was supposed to be put under it and I was told this last year. He told me this was just a recent change in thinking from the company and that they now recommended the polyethylene only over concrete. Being an overly cautious person I called the company in New England and was told that they now recommend the polyethylene. In fact, they said "any underlayment suitable to be placed under wood laminate flooring would be okay and would not void the warranty".

I still didn't trust this reply so I called back a few days later and talked to another person. I asked the same questions and got the same reply. My thoughts were that I wanted to go with a premium underlay such as Airguard by Roberts. This is the type that is orange poly surface on one side with a clear poly bottom surface and small embedded styrofoam pellets sandwiched between the layers. One reason I wanted this product is that it has a built in mold inhibitor which is a feature I wanted considering some of the posts mentioned mold buildup under the Allure. This underlay is about $50 / 100sq ft so it will had 50 cents a square foot to your flooring costs but I feel it is worth it. I mentioned this product to the customer service adviser at Halstead and they said again, "any underlayment suitable for under wood laminate..." would be fine.

As far as also putting a sealer on the cement I think this is a good idea but I'm still not sure whether or not to do this. My fear is if somehow you got moisture between the Allure or the underlayment and the concrete now being sealed, there would definitely be nowhere for the moisture to go. At least, I believe, if the concrete is untreated, it will absorb moisture away from the flooring. One of the tests that is suggested to see if the concrete slab is suitable for sealing is to put some water on it and see if it soaks into the concrete. If it does, then supposedly this type of concrete would benefit from a sealer. If water does not soak in, then the concrete is not suitable for a sealer. This comes right from the literature on the sealer container. So my fear is, if you seal the concrete from moisture coming through from the bottom, you have also sealed the concrete from moisture being able to get away. I would like to hear other views on this to finally make up my mind "to seal, or not to seal".

One other thought on the installation where I believe problems could stem from is temperature of the floor. This is critical. Rolling with sufficient weight is also critical and I believe you have to be really careful how tightly you fasten down your trim on top of the Allure. It has to have a bit of space to expand or contract and if it is pinched tightly by mouldings around the perimeter you take this ability away, especially if you have a fairly wide temperature variation at that floor level throughout the various seasons. I couldn`t believe how cool my floor gets near the front door during the winter until I put a thermometer on the floor in that location.

I will be going ahead with this job in the next couple of weeks. Wish me luck. I will post how I make out.
 
#601 ·
Being an overly cautious person I called the company in New England and was told that they now recommend the polyethylene. In fact, they said "any underlayment suitable to be placed under wood laminate flooring would be okay and would not void the warranty".

I will be going ahead with this job in the next couple of weeks. Wish me luck. I will post how I make out.
It is great to know this, thank you. I wonder how difficult it would be to seal the concrete now in problem areas, if we pull back the flooring.:eek:
 
#708 · (Edited)
Cause I pay very little (like...less than $500 a month) for a country cottage on acreage and I have six dogs (had fewer when I signed the rental agreement, but someone dumped a pregnant stray in front of the house and well...). The house has beige carpeting, any idea what 6 dogs do to beige carpeting? When I rented this place I said I wanted to replace the carpet with vinyl, and they said fine.

They don't hassle me about my dogs, and I don't hassle them about minor repairs. Works out very well. The investment in the flooring is well worth it. I pay my rent on time, I don't bother them and they never bother me, the perfect landlord/renter relationship.

I suppose asking the landlord what that object is would be totally out of the question. I suppose asking him/her if it is okay to remove it would also out of the question.:(
I seriously doubt if they even know about it. They bought the house as a rental a few years ago and likely hired carpet layers to replace the old carpet, and the carpet layers saw it and went over it. Since it is next to the baseboard and won't pose a tripping risk I may just leave it.
 
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