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-   -   T&G subfloor old rot - how to repair? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/t-g-subfloor-old-rot-how-repair-153482/)

Didymus21 08-13-2012 12:30 AM

T&G subfloor old rot - how to repair? + Tile flange enough?
 
So when I pulled up the old tile in my bathroom I noticed water damage from the previous owner. I want to lay down tile again, but want to repair this area as best I can before I do. What are your recommendations? I've removed most of the rot, so what remains is "good" wood. The flooring is 1 1/2" thick, so there is only about 0.5" left.

I crawled under the house and noticed the fix attempt they had made. Looks like two pieces of wood nailed up to the bottom of the floor.

Take a look at the pics and let me know your input.

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/8...2210750197.jpg

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/1...2211052635.jpg


Additionally, will this be enough of a tub flange to tile over properly? I don't want to repeat the water damage that occurred before. If it will be best to just get a new tub, I can do that...but I thought I'd salvage this nice 60's cast iron if I could....

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/7...2214350224.jpg

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/589...2214519857.jpg

Didymus21 08-13-2012 03:03 PM

Anyone willing to give their two cents here? I want to move on with the project....

Big-Foot 08-13-2012 04:28 PM

I saw a show on This Old House where they used Fiberglass Resin to restore dry rotted wood. I tried it on a window ledge and had good results. I have done autobody work so I was not unfamiliar with the mixing of the resin with the catalyst. You can get the resin at your local Menards or Home Depot. I would think thugh that you would also want to add some filler to that. Fiberglass can be cut into squares to fill that gap. Be careful of the fumes. You need lots of ventilation and it will smell for a few days as it outgasses. If you chose an epoxy based fiberglass resin, there will be minimal smell and it cures hard as a rock.

The other way is obviously to replace the wood with more wood. Much more time consuming but cheaper materials wise.

JetSwet 08-13-2012 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Didymus21
Anyone willing to give their two cents here? I want to move on with the project....

What are the specs of your floor besides the floor boards. The joists look far apart? I personally wouldn't put cbu or ditra right over that. I would lay ply down then a ditra then tile. How high can you raise the floor including tile hight before its to high.

There was ply down prior then tile or just tile?

JazMan 08-13-2012 09:46 PM

Jet came close, but our friends didn't catch that your house is on the left coast where they often build homes to some strange specifications. Your house is on post & piers foundation where the joists are usually 48" o.c. and the subfloor is 2x lumber. it sure looks like you have some major repairs to make.

Plan on replacing those 2x6 or 8" before you fall into the crawl space.

Then you can talk tile by installing plywood and then concrete backer or a product such as Ditra, then the tiles.

Jaz

p.s. I posted then realized you have two threads going on this project, good way to confuse some of us.

Didymus21 08-14-2012 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan (Post 987948)
Jet came close, but our friends didn't catch that your house is on the left coast where they often build homes to some strange specifications. Your house is on post & piers foundation where the joists are usually 48" o.c. and the subfloor is 2x lumber. it sure looks like you have some major repairs to make.

Plan on replacing those 2x6 or 8" before you fall into the crawl space.

Then you can talk tile by installing plywood and then concrete backer or a product such as Ditra, then the tiles.

Jaz

p.s. I posted then realized you have two threads going on this project, good way to confuse some of us.

Yes, I brought one of the other threads back to life, when instead I should have just merged the two. I think the only way I can replace that board is to tear one of the walls out...because the wall is sitting over top of it. It's in a spot that doesn't bear much load, so once I put plywood over the top, I suspect it'll be just fine. Worst case scenario, it isn't and then I do end up having to knock the wall down (it's a closet wall) to replace that section....of course then any new tile work would have to come up, too. :(. Ugh. The things home inspections can't see can really be a bummer.

Didymus21 08-14-2012 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JetSwet (Post 987854)
What are the specs of your floor besides the floor boards. The joists look far apart? I personally wouldn't put cbu or ditra right over that. I would lay ply down then a ditra then tile. How high can you raise the floor including tile hight before its to high.

There was ply down prior then tile or just tile?

I was measuring around ~50" o.c. for the joists, so JazMan may be right about 48". The joist board itself is 3.75"X7". I could probably get away with laying 0.5" BC exterior and then ditra, then tile without the floor being too high. 0.75" ply would probably be too greedy in terms of floor height, though I realize it'd make for a more stable floor.

The previous owner put 0.5" CBU down directly on the subfloor and then tiled. Nothing else. No failure and it looked like the tile had been there for some time. Guess they got lucky.


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