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-   -   Swiftlock VINYL plank flooring (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/swiftlock-vinyl-plank-flooring-115150/)

keithl1967 08-24-2011 10:26 PM

Swiftlock VINYL plank flooring
 
Does anyone have any experience with this product? Pros/cons/etc?

ttr13r 08-27-2011 12:46 AM

I have heard of it. HD has Allure, which I'm sure is similar. But if I were you I would google the heck out of it, compare all the brands of the vinyl plank then decide which will be best for you.:)

keithl1967 08-27-2011 01:31 PM

I have...not a ton out there about this particular product....
I was also looking at the Allure Ultra, but some of the thread discusses the difficulty of proper installation, and having to pull it up and re-install.

I took sample planks from HD of the allure ultra, and also of th eLowes Swiftlock...the swiftlock seems to have an easier, and stronger interlock than the Allure Ultra...

The Allure Ultra is lifetime warranty, though, compared to Swiftlock's 25 year...

rusty baker 08-27-2011 03:41 PM

Don't buy anything because one has a lifetime and the other has a 25 year warranty. Most people live in the same house less than 10 years. It can ugly out and still be good under warranty.

eglassell 11-24-2011 08:02 PM

Found it hard to install correctly
 
The planks were difficult to slide & lock together all the way down, thus producing a crack or gap if not done correctly. Hired an installer who had a difficult time figuring it out & had to take it up and re-lay it after I showed him how to do it. There are still 2 spots in the floor with a slight crack between planks. I didn't have the heart to make him redo it again, but the planks don't lie flat if they are not locked tightly and now there are a couple of places that are chipped at the edge of the plank where the gapped seam is....

keithl1967 11-25-2011 03:35 PM

I ende dup going with Swiftlock vinly planking form Lowes', instead of the allure ultra....

The swiftlock goes together well, cust easily, and has none of the "gaps" described here fpr the allure ultra!

pvsmiths 12-10-2011 10:36 AM

Please Report Back, Keith!
 
So how did it go Keith? Did you have to use any glue at all? Any advice before I get started? I have 21 boxes sitting here waiting for me to get going!

keithl1967 12-10-2011 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pvsmiths (Post 790367)
So how did it go Keith? Did you have to use any glue at all? Any advice before I get started? I have 21 boxes sitting here waiting for me to get going!

Went pretty smoothly...
Cuts pretty easily (mostky score and snap, but a little more in depth around some corners.

Locks in place well--no issue with it coming apart...one bit of advice, make sure the surface is clean...a very ticky particle can be "felt" throught he floor...

no glue needed...

i would definitely recommend the swiftlock product...

pvsmiths 12-18-2011 10:22 AM

"Floating" questions
 
I've put off doing this job because we have questions about how to deal with tile when it meets a wall or door opening. Any experience with meeting up to ceramic tile? http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSC_0221.jpg
or other elevated wood?http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSC_0230.jpg or a metal door frame? http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSC_0225.jpg I'll ask the floor guy at Lowe's, but thought I'd try here also. Will copy and paste this in a similar thread, too.
Thanks for your help, it is truly appreciated!

packer_rich 12-18-2011 11:45 AM

Is this the installation? I think that you need to stagger the joints, or you could have a problem.

joecaption 12-18-2011 11:54 AM

All the instrutions your going to need are written on the box.
There has to be a space left where ever it meets a wall,
It can not be ran through a doorway, your going to have to use trasition strips at each doorway. Where it meets tile you once agin need a trasition strip.
What the strip does is allow room for the flooring to expand and contract.

pvsmiths 12-18-2011 12:18 PM

Thanks Joe. Nope, no instructions on the boxes. I did contact the company, and they faxed me some instructions, but they didn't cover the specific challenges I am referring to. I will look into these "transition strips". Thanks again!

pvsmiths 12-22-2011 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by packer_rich (Post 796678)
Is this the installation? I think that you need to stagger the joints, or you could have a problem.

No, not the installation, I just put those down to see where I need to start. Will definitely stagger.

Sena 12-29-2011 08:01 PM

removing trim neccessary?
 
My floor trim is going to be a nightmare to remove. I've heard there should be a spacer anyway. Is removing the floor moulding really neccessary?
Thanks!

joecaption 12-29-2011 08:11 PM

You have to just remove the 1/4 round or shoe moulding, a simple flat bar and a hammer will just pop it out.
Once out you pull the nails out of the back side with a pair of channel locks.


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