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Old 04-20-2008, 05:27 PM   #1
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subfloor question for kitchen


hi all..

been renovating and old kitchen. ripped up vinyl floor, 1/4 ply, then 1950's era vinyl flooring and found what must have been the original felt underlay. it was glued to the 3" wide tongue/grove pine subfloor.

how can i easily remove the felt?

another question.. can i refinish the tongue/grove pine floor with LOTS of polyurethane for use in a kitchen?

i'm documenting my project over here, and there are some shots of the floor

my kitchen reno - complete remodel (with concrete countertop)

thanks for the help!
Knucklez


Last edited by Knucklez; 04-21-2008 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:11 PM   #2
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subfloor question for kitchen


i posted more pictures (see previous link).

another question... do you think this floor is salvagable for use in a kitchen? it has lots of holes that would need to be filed from all the nails that i removed when tearing up the 1/4" thick chipboard.

or should i lay 5/8" plywood "paint grade" overtop and just paint the plywood?

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Old 04-22-2008, 05:06 AM   #3
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Hi Knucklez
I just did what your doing right now.Flooring, T&G pine with 1/4 inch particle board nailed over top. I started in a closet and pulled the particle board up and sanded just the closet area.Then put 4 coats of urethane over top.The nail holes really looked good for a rustic look.The 30# underlayment or roofing paper wasn't glued in my case.A suggestion might be to use some thing like this http://www.shagtools.com/Products/Gu...Froogle16-F-14
Good Luck
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:43 PM   #4
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subfloor question for kitchen


thanks for the confidence booster.

i just thought of something actually.. might as well finish off the pine floor as it is.. because i can always add the 5/8" plywood + ceramic later. i would be out the cost of stain & poly, but that is acceptable.

so.. that's what i'm going to do. tongue & grove pine floor for the kitchen.
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:34 AM   #5
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That was the same thought process that I had.....................

Good Luck
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Old 04-23-2008, 06:09 AM   #6
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Knucklez.Here is a photo of the closet floor I was talking about.A bit dusty as we seem to live in a constant state of dust these days.But I am sure you get the jest of it.
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:44 PM   #7
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oh those floor are gorgeous.. that's going to turn out real nice.
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:48 PM   #8
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subfloor question for kitchen


but here's another alert!

someone just posted on my DIY project that the floor felt or vinyl tiles MIGHT be aspestos based material!!

i did some quick google search.. and found that if your house was remodeled around the 1950's (which mine was) then good chance the viynl floor tiles were sprayed with aspestos material for durability and fire proof, and that the adhesive felt is probably 20% aspestos!

ugg.. not good.

need advice..
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:58 PM   #9
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subfloor question for kitchen


use wet techniques to keep the dust down. Wet the area before you scrape it. The only way to be sure it is or is not asbestos is to have it tested by a lab. And then it gets really expensive because of laws and regulations. To be safe if you are concerned, seal off the area (doors and ducts) with poly and duct tape. Wear clothes you can throw away later. Keep windows open. Use a respirator (not the dust mask) but a half face respirator with a P100 cartridge (prevents 99.9% of particles <0.3 micron in size).
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Old 04-25-2008, 08:52 PM   #10
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wsus, got all that ready.

i wanted to find one of those all white cloth jump suits.. but alas, can't find them locally

what do you think about using paint stripper to do this work?
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:43 PM   #11
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Will be better than sanding. If it is a glued type felt maybe some TSP would also work. If you wanted to sand and just pre-wetted it with water that may also do the trick. It is usually hard to find TyVek suits locally. My company usually orders them direct.
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Old 04-27-2008, 01:49 PM   #12
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agreed, i gave up trying to find the suits.. will try TSP. soap & water works "OK" but it is still a lot of work.

after the felt is removed there is still a "leather like" underbelly that needs to be removed to expose the wood floor. the paint scraper is poor at this job.. takes HOURS to do the smallest area.

i think i'll sand that part off with a drum sander.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:48 PM   #13
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Let us know how it goes. When I did my floors, there was an asphaltic mastic that when using the drum sander gummed up every like 3 passes with the 25 grit paper. At $7 a pop it got pretty expensive. May need to use that TSP and a good scraper on those papers if it starts to gum up.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:47 PM   #14
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i have experience in that gumming up.. when sanding floors with very old linseed oil stain. the trick is to use the vibrating sander (not drum sander) because the vibrating sander will force the gummed up stuff to form in nickel size lumps which can be easily picked off with a chisel - and then you can reuse the sandpaper.

i'm not pro.. but i found this worked. takes 2 people, one person to sand the floor the other to pick the gumm off the used sand paper sheets.

i'll probably try this method and see how it goes. will post results when done.

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Old 06-13-2009, 08:44 AM   #15
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subfloor question for kitchen


ok ok.. i'm not the fastest worker.
but i am finally done.

checkout the floor refurbishment HERE

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