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-   -   Subfloor fix before installing hardwood (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/subfloor-fix-before-installing-hardwood-160405/)

zakany 10-17-2012 06:24 PM

Subfloor fix before installing hardwood
 
Installing 4-1/4 & 3-1/4 mix solid hickory over 3/4 plywood. In a couple spots, the top of one piece of plywood is ~1/16 higher or lower than the adjacent sheet. Easier to feel than to see. They aren't crowned and they don't touch. Just a slight difference in height that I would think might cause problems with the flooring (squeaks, groans, or even a visible hitch). Otherwise the floor is level enough (within 1/8 wall to wall).

Is that something I can feather in with felt paper?

oh'mike 10-17-2012 06:53 PM

That would work---or slip a thin shim int the gap as you staple or nail the floor.

What wood will bridge a lot of gaps without an issue----If you must put a fastener into a gapped spot--always slip in a shim first----

imautoparts 10-17-2012 07:12 PM

I have the same question, but in my case there is a crack in the subfloor due to a basement/slab interface. The break is across the breakfast room portion of a kitchen. I hate to level it because it drops about 2/3" from where the break is to a doorway in the wall that leads to a hallway.

Besides vinyl is there any other way to cross an imperfection of any real size without repair?

joecaption 10-17-2012 10:37 PM

imautoparts go back and repost your own question.
There's no way to keep the ansewers straight when replying to two differant people. And post a picture.

zakany 10-18-2012 09:28 AM

Sounds like a plan.

I like the idea of using 30# felt to make up for small height changes. I'm using Aquabar under my flooring and that seemed to be too thin to use for such build-ups (I'd think too many layers would tend to shift, defeating the purpose). Besides, I care what it looks like before I install my flooring - because I know it's there. That's why I used proper wood screws when I was fixing squeaks rather than drywall screws - the nails had missed the joist so I drilled countersunk holes at an angle to screw the subflooring into the joists.

Another thing that I assume is kosher is that I plan to leave a 1/2-in gap off the walls and undercut the drywall to take credit for its thickness and get my 3/4-in expansion gap. Even though I have good conditions (the basement underneath is dry and is conditioned with the rest of the house with constant air movement in and out) I'm a bit paranoid about cupping, especially with hickory. My wife didn't want nice, dimensionally-stable cherry. "Too red" she said, looking at a floor that was 25 years old.

One thing I find curious is that no one ever mentions a shrinkage allowance. If a floor covering can expand a half inch or so, can it not also contract the same amount? No mention how much the baseboard trim should overhang the flooring edge.

oh'mike 10-19-2012 05:55 AM

Base and shoe will cover 1 inch or more--depending on the thickness of the trim---undercutting the drywall is a mess and not really needed---

zakany 10-19-2012 04:33 PM

Already done. It was easy. I just used a scrap piece of flooring as a guide, scored and removed the drywall bottom with a utility knife. Throughout most of my house, the builder left the drywall about an inch off the floor, but not this room. What kept it from getting messy was using a shop vac to clear the debris before it got tracked all over the place.

I'm reusing my baseboard trim. It's ranch style, maybe 3/8 wide at the bottom. Once it's sanded and repainted, it looks nice (well, nicer). I figure that I'd add a 1/2-in shoe mold to the bottom.

Besides, I need something to do while waiting for my wood to acclimate.

oh'mike 10-19-2012 07:04 PM

Sounds like you are all set----I seldom reuse any trim--unless it's something rare and unusual.

add up the time spent and you will see why

Extra care in removing trim---$
pulling nails--------------------$
cutting off caulk and cleaning-$
reassembling the quzzel------$
------------------------------------
$$$

Then ripping it out because the old trim looks--well, old, next to the shiny new floor--:laughing:

zakany 10-21-2012 06:16 PM

Heh.

That's the difference between a DIYer and a professional. As a homeowner I look at the cost of base molding and think, "why spend that when all I have to do is remove this cleanly, tap out the nails, sand, seal, and repaint?" Save myself a couple bucks per perimeter foot! Sometimes a nail comes out straight. Bonus! Free nail.

:laughing:

I constructed a little sample subfloor that I'm using for practice. I'm "installing" several sample pieces I've collected while looking at flooring.

ToolSeeker 10-21-2012 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zakany (Post 1035237)
Heh.

That's the difference between a DIYer and a professional. As a homeowner I look at the cost of base molding and think, "why spend that when all I have to do is remove this cleanly, tap out the nails, sand, seal, and repaint?" Save myself a couple bucks per perimeter foot! Sometimes a nail comes out straight. Bonus! Free nail.

:laughing:

I constructed a little sample subfloor that I'm using for practice. I'm "installing" several sample pieces I've collected while looking at flooring.

First don't pound the nails back thru. Pull them out from the back. and number the pieces when you remove them.


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