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Old 05-13-2013, 12:00 AM   #16
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Stairs in laminate


How good is the finish usually on finished oak treads? Is it so good that it's worth the $20 premium or so you pay per tread? I know it saves time to buy that, but does it last & look good? I know this is kind of a general question so if people want to recommend manufacturers/suppliers, I'm happy to get the advice.

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Old 05-13-2013, 09:44 AM   #17
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Stairs in laminate


Here's an example using engineered hardwood maple with hardwood maple nosings. The hardest part was getting the colour match for the nosing. It's a very slight shade off,( likely because of the grain tightness or orientation) causing the nosing to visually stand out slightly. Not a bad thing for dark flooring on stairs. It's close though.

Every thing was glued down with good construction adhesive. The tongues of the flooring were nailed thus avoiding any patching. The nosing is wide enough and has a matching groove to accept the flooring. The nosings were nailed down. The risers were fairly straight forward to install but the tread took careful planing and sizing to ensure a tight fit. Bottom riser installed first, then the first tread, then the next riser and so on...I used carpenters glue for the T&G's.

Make sure your stair framing is solid. Add some screws or glue if needed before you start the finished wood layers.

I've done a number of stairs like this with no problems or repairs needed. Their solid.

Stairs in laminate-image-4052927179.jpg
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:30 PM   #18
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Stairs in laminate


I thought I would laminate my stairs, seemed simple enough. Didn't like the product after I ordered it and then found that some insurance companies will not cover liabilities if it is used inappropriately, like on the stairs, since it was not designed for that. Never gave that any thought. Now I will spent the extra money and do it the right way.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:29 PM   #19
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Stairs in laminate


Quote:
Originally Posted by funfool View Post
I would use liquid nails, And and nail it with my finish gun using 2 1/2" nails,
That length may be over kill, is simply the size I use most and always carry them in the truck.
Hide the nails where you can, but you cant hide all of them. Depending on depth of the tread, I would want minimum of 2 nails front and rear, mat need a 3rd in the middle.
So would 3 nails for each end, and most likely 3 more in the middle, a total of nine nails with liquid nails underneath. This will assure you do not create a squeaky stair, try to fix any current squeaks with screws or nails, whatever you can do, may not get them all.

For the exposed nails, if you keep your nailing pattern consistent, will be fine.
When you finish the wood, the trick is to apply first coat of finish before filling the nail holes.This is important.
The oak is porous, If you apply a sandable stainable oak wood putty before first coat, will be in the pores around the nail holes, will never get it out and will see every nail hole.
The first coat of finish will fill those pores, now when you putty, will only be the small nail hole, and when you sand the putty and apply the final coats, they will disappear.
I pet if you have 50 holes depending on the amount of treads, you may see 3 or 4, and only you will see them because you know they are there.

But you are on the right path and will build a nice product that will look beautiful and last years.
Hi Funfool
I have question about the finishing process and make sure nail hoses are almost invisible. So you say it's best to apply 1 layer of stain, and then fill in the hole with wood filler, sand and apply a 2nd layer? I think the area with wood filler will be visible, since it will have only 1 layer when the rest of the plank has 2...Don't you think those areas will be clearer with only 1 layer?

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