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-   -   Stairs in laminate (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/stairs-laminate-169595/)

french_guy 01-20-2013 08:22 AM

Stairs in laminate
 
Hello
I was looking at that tutorial to put laminate on my stairs:
http://www.laminate-flooring-install...on-stairs.html
It is really really great, and very well explained....
I just have 1 question though: what type of wood should be used for the riser?
I was think at some MDF maybe....?

joecaption 01-20-2013 09:58 AM

I'd never suggest anyone use laminite on stairs, far better look, and easyer to use real wood treads.
Lots or reasons not to do it.
Laminite has to have room to expand and contract.
Slippery
Not wide enough to be used for a full tread so you end up with a narrow strip that can open up.
No good way to trim it out without a bunch of trip hazzards
The stair nosing I've seen used is noting more then compressed paper with a vinyl foil that looks like shelving paper over it. So it wears through.
It also has a 90 deg dato on the back side creating a weak spot where it can crack.
MDF for the risers can be used but real wood holds up better to abuse.

french_guy 01-20-2013 11:56 AM

Not even engineered hardwood floor?
You mean full plank of wood (oak?) that will fit each stair (wide enough to not have to put 2 per stair?)

funfool 01-20-2013 12:14 PM

I agree 100% with Joe on this one.
I seen the title of your post and went :no:
I have seen where others have done it, Is just a terrible idea for many reasons.
If a customer wants it, I would simply refuse to do it. Pick another option, or find another carpenter.
Would just whiz me off going through the headache's of making it look nice, all the while knowing was creating a hazard and crappy product.

I vote no also.

french_guy 01-20-2013 12:17 PM

OK, fair enough....
So I would need something like that, right?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#BVRRWidgetID

How should I attach it on the current stairs? Glue only, glue + nails where the nail holes will be hidden with matching putty?

funfool 01-20-2013 12:51 PM

I would use liquid nails, And and nail it with my finish gun using 2 1/2" nails,
That length may be over kill, is simply the size I use most and always carry them in the truck.
Hide the nails where you can, but you cant hide all of them. Depending on depth of the tread, I would want minimum of 2 nails front and rear, mat need a 3rd in the middle.
So would 3 nails for each end, and most likely 3 more in the middle, a total of nine nails with liquid nails underneath. This will assure you do not create a squeaky stair, try to fix any current squeaks with screws or nails, whatever you can do, may not get them all.

For the exposed nails, if you keep your nailing pattern consistent, will be fine.
When you finish the wood, the trick is to apply first coat of finish before filling the nail holes.This is important.
The oak is porous, If you apply a sandable stainable oak wood putty before first coat, will be in the pores around the nail holes, will never get it out and will see every nail hole.
The first coat of finish will fill those pores, now when you putty, will only be the small nail hole, and when you sand the putty and apply the final coats, they will disappear.
I pet if you have 50 holes depending on the amount of treads, you may see 3 or 4, and only you will see them because you know they are there.

But you are on the right path and will build a nice product that will look beautiful and last years.

Awoodfloorguy 01-20-2013 01:13 PM

I have to agree with the others, use solid wood treads. By the time you buy all of that nosing for each stair, you can spend a little more a do solid wood. If it adjoins a laminate floor, you can stain match oak really easy. If you don't also want to do solid risers, and you are painting these, maybe consider a birch plywood or other paint grade material.

french_guy 04-01-2013 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funfool (Post 1097855)
I would use liquid nails, And and nail it with my finish gun using 2 1/2" nails,
That length may be over kill, is simply the size I use most and always carry them in the truck.
Hide the nails where you can, but you cant hide all of them. Depending on depth of the tread, I would want minimum of 2 nails front and rear, mat need a 3rd in the middle.
So would 3 nails for each end, and most likely 3 more in the middle, a total of nine nails with liquid nails underneath. This will assure you do not create a squeaky stair, try to fix any current squeaks with screws or nails, whatever you can do, may not get them all.

For the exposed nails, if you keep your nailing pattern consistent, will be fine.
When you finish the wood, the trick is to apply first coat of finish before filling the nail holes.This is important.
The oak is porous, If you apply a sandable stainable oak wood putty before first coat, will be in the pores around the nail holes, will never get it out and will see every nail hole.
The first coat of finish will fill those pores, now when you putty, will only be the small nail hole, and when you sand the putty and apply the final coats, they will disappear.
I pet if you have 50 holes depending on the amount of treads, you may see 3 or 4, and only you will see them because you know they are there.

But you are on the right path and will build a nice product that will look beautiful and last years.

Hi
Redo my stair may be my next job...What nails do you recommend (diameter, size of the head, minimum length)
Thanks

joecaption 04-02-2013 09:47 AM

I use constrution adhesive, and 2-1/2 galvinized finish nails in predrilled pilot holes in the tread.
The reason I use the galvinized nails is there rough so I feel they hold better.
I would not use a finish gun for this one.

ddawg16 04-02-2013 09:59 AM

My in-laws have bamboo laminate on their stairs....it's better than the carpet they used to have....but they now wish they had not done it...

It looks great right after it's done.......

But....

Once you start walking on it....the outside board starts to wobble because it gets the most force of people going up and down....

Yea...don't do it.....you want to use a single piece of hardwood.....

Remember the saying? "You learn by your mistakes"..........why do you think the above guys are so bloody smart?

french_guy 04-02-2013 10:20 AM

Laminate was my original idea, but after the answers from Joe and Funfool, i won't go that way but oak treads instead.....

BigJim 04-02-2013 10:35 AM

Talking about nail sizes, back before nail guns I use 10d finish nails and construction adhesive, I would cut the head off a nail, put it in a drill and drill a hole using the nail. It looks like the hole would be too large drilling that way but it isn't, worked good for me.

french_guy 04-02-2013 10:44 AM

And why not using a drill bit?

BigJim 04-02-2013 11:01 AM

Out on the jobsite sometimes it is hard to find a bit the exact size. Much easier to just use the same size nail you plan to use.

rossfingal 04-02-2013 11:57 AM

Don't use laminate flooring on stairs!
It don't work too well!
It can be done - way too much "jumping through hoops", though!
It's also a little, slippery!
Not, what you want on stairs!
"RF"

(Sure - you can use a drill-bit - be prepared to break some, though!)
Like some of the posts above - expansion/contraction!


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