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|02-24-2013, 01:33 PM||#1|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 95Rewards Points: 75
Stair Riser question
A question about stairs. I did hardwood in my upstairs hallway. I'm just now getting around to doing the stair nosing as my stairs are quite wide and I needed to find a long stair nosing piece. I finally got one.
At some point, I want to do the entire stairs in hardwood. HOwever, money wise, I can't right now. So was wondering how to do the top part. Just leave the nosing, and leave carpet up to it underneath (where the riser would be), or put a riser there, but I am afraid that will look stupid. Last option is just put a piece of riser underneath the edge of the nosing for more support and to cover where the carpet ends. So some questions.
1. Does the riser have to be a certain thickness. I bought some 1 inch thick oak, but I think it's too thick considering how far the nosing sticks out. I think I'd have to get a diffferent nosing piece that extends longer.. or use a thinner riser portion.
2. the lip on the nosing. Is it criticla that the riser rests in behind the lip, or can it be supported on the lip...if that makes sense.
3. does the riser normally go on top of the tread on the step below, or behind it... if that makes sense lol.
THanks in advance!
|02-24-2013, 02:09 PM||#2|
Ole Wood Worker
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lookout Valley, Chattanooga, Tennessee
Posts: 9,498Rewards Points: 624
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Stair Riser question
I have used 1/4" to cover a rough looking riser, so in your case any thickness will work as long as it looks good, but if you are replacing riser boards I would go with 3/4 inch.
It won't matter, just go for looks here, most risers do go behind the lip though.
No the riser goes behind the tread so you will have something to nail or screw into the back of the tread, it helps support the tread and helps stop squeaks. Some fellows put it on top but you would be able to see any gap easily. JMHO
I hope this helps.
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Last edited by BigJim; 02-24-2013 at 02:14 PM. Reason: added
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