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-   -   Sistering and Blocking For tile floor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/sistering-blocking-tile-floor-33484/)

jamiedolan 12-09-2008 04:52 PM

Sistering and Blocking For tile floor
 
6 Attachment(s)
HI;

A couple weeks ago I posted and some people here suggested that I sister the joists in my kitchen in preparation for a tile floor. They are 2x10' spruce, 16 o.c. 14' 2" in the longest span.

I am attaching photos, I sistered every joist I could with the largest piece of lumber I could. I used 2x10x12' on most of the area where there is the largest span (14'2") and then used the smaller pieces where necessary (2x6 & 2x4). The sistered beams are attached with about 2 gallons (seriously) of construction adhesive, construction screws(to pull tight into place), and grade 5 lag bolts, and some 16 pen nails.

The question I have now is, how does it look, and how much blocking do you think I need to do? How frequently would you place blocking on this floor?

Thanks very much; photos below;
Jamie

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JazMan 12-09-2008 09:01 PM

Jamie,

Why do you think you need blocking? If you use the right subfloor you shouldn't.

Can you post the link to the original thread? It would be good to keep all replies in one place.

Jaz

jamiedolan 12-09-2008 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan (Post 196166)
Jamie,

Why do you think you need blocking? If you use the right subfloor you shouldn't.

Can you post the link to the original thread? It would be good to keep all replies in one place.

Jaz

HI
Thanks for responding. This is the thread: http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/correct-sub-floor-choice-32229/#post188477

There was a fair amount of cross bracing in place that I removed. I was going to do the blocking to make up for removing that bracing.

Do you think I am going to be ok just using the sturdi floor that we spoke about in the previous thread (without adding in blocking or bracing)? I am planing on using construction adhesive and subfloor screws.

Thanks again,
Jamie

JazMan 12-09-2008 10:42 PM

What the heck, since the floor is open, go ahead and do both. The X bracing in the center or maybe 2 times, should be OK. Blocking every 24" is good and makes finding them once covered simple. That floor should be very stiff once you're done with it. :thumbsup:

Even though you sistered, the X's will transfer some of the load to the next joists on either side. That's a good thing.

Jaz

jamiedolan 12-10-2008 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan (Post 196197)
What the heck, since the floor is open, go ahead and do both. The X bracing in the center or maybe 2 times, should be OK. Blocking every 24" is good and makes finding them once covered simple. That floor should be very stiff once you're done with it. :thumbsup:

Even though you sistered, the X's will transfer some of the load to the next joists on either side. That's a good thing.

Jaz

Thanks.

Since I am going to have a very strong / stiff subfloor in place. What would be the very minimum height I could end up with? Do I want to look at ditra?

The floor it meets up to is 1-3/16" I'd really love to come as close as possible to that same level, but that only gives me about 1/2" total on top of my subfloor to end up with a floor that is pretty close to being flush with the other rooms.

Any chance I am going to achieve this?
Thanks
Jamie

buletbob 12-10-2008 06:01 AM

Jamie!
What is supporting the subfloor along the exterior side wall. I noticed you removed the original subfloor. My question is what and how are you going to keep that outside wall from rolling out or rolling in. beginning that the wall was built on the subfloor that was spanning across the joists. now you just have the original subfloor still under the 2x4 shoe and only resting on the outside floor joist of 1-1/2" do you see what I,m Getting at. I don't see anything in the pictures that shoes how you treated this ? BOB.

jamiedolan 12-10-2008 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buletbob (Post 196239)
Jamie!
What is supporting the subfloor along the exterior side wall. I noticed you removed the original subfloor. My question is what and how are you going to keep that outside wall from rolling out or rolling in. beginning that the wall was built on the subfloor that was spanning across the joists. now you just have the original subfloor still under the 2x4 shoe and only resting on the outside floor joist of 1-1/2" do you see what I,m Getting at. I don't see anything in the pictures that shoes how you treated this ? BOB.

I was planing on blocking this up as much as possiable to support the sub floor in that area along the wall where it is not supported. It is all cabinets except for the door way, where I will pay special attention to adding support. Since it is cabinets I was not as concerned about the support, but still planed on significant blocking along the wall. Do you think I need to do something in addition to the blocking on this outside wall?

Thanks
Jamie

buletbob 12-10-2008 09:31 PM

What i would recommend is to get a length of 2x6 the length of the wall
Install it under the sub floor that you left under the 2x4 shoe. use 3" heavy deck screws install them from the bottom up into the 2x4 shoe. I personally like the square head screws, when you install it try and keep it tight to the outside floor joist. if there is any wires or pipes make good clean notches in the 2x6 to clear these obstacles, would be nice to remove them drill the 2x6 and reinstall, but would add to the cost, this 2x6 will be your nailer for your new sub floor. before you install the sub floor install blocking every 2' oc riped to fit from the top of your sill plate to the bottom of the new nailer and into the second floor joist. this will help support the 2x6 nailer and tie your outside wall to the new sub floor.
Hope this helps BOB.

jamiedolan 12-12-2008 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buletbob (Post 196575)
What i would recommend is to get a length of 2x6 the length of the wall
Install it under the sub floor that you left under the 2x4 shoe. use 3" heavy deck screws install them from the bottom up into the 2x4 shoe. I personally like the square head screws, when you install it try and keep it tight to the outside floor joist. if there is any wires or pipes make good clean notches in the 2x6 to clear these obstacles, would be nice to remove them drill the 2x6 and reinstall, but would add to the cost, this 2x6 will be your nailer for your new sub floor. before you install the sub floor install blocking every 2' oc riped to fit from the top of your sill plate to the bottom of the new nailer and into the second floor joist. this will help support the 2x6 nailer and tie your outside wall to the new sub floor.
Hope this helps BOB.

Thanks bob, I will take your suggestions. I am working on re-doing pipes / wires / vent / duct work, that were in my way, a bit more involved than I had hoped. Time consuming. But hopefully I will be back to the floor work soon and will be able to get the blocking / bracing installed as you suggested.
Thanks
Jamie

buletbob 12-12-2008 07:56 PM

glad to here it. good luck and keep us posted. BOB


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