Shower tiling....

adam7

Hi everyone, I am new here. I have searched the forum, but couldn't find what I was looking for.

I have ripped my shower stall down to the studs, and built it back up again. I am at the point of installing tiles, but have a few questions before I begin.

1) Is it ok to install the bottom row of tiles butted right up against the floor, or should a gap be left, and if so, what should that gap be filled in with if anything. Or, would it be best to cut the floor tiles and bottom row of tiles with 45 degree edges and grout between them? The later seems like it might not be the best to prevent leaks.

2) Similar to the first question, what would be best for mating up the corners? Should I just butt the first wall of tiles up against the backerboard, then leave a proper sized gap between the tile face of the installed wall and the joining wall and grout between, or would cutting the mating edges at 45 degress be better?

3) I understand that it is easier to use smalled tiles on the floor, but is that a requirement? I am using 13x13 on the walls, and wonder if it is possible to use them on the floor as well.

4) Speaking of floor tiles, it would appear that the tiles I picked are slightly thicker that what was previously there. Is there something that would extend the height of the floor drain, or will I just have to try and smooth the slight height difference during the grouting phase?

Well, I think that is it. Any help with any of the above questions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

joecaption

It would be best if you could post at least a picture so the guys can see just what it is your trying to do and what your working with.
Did you water proof the whole thing yet?

adam7

I will try to get some pictures up soon. When you say "water proof", what are you refering to? I know there was some kind of red paint stuff (I can't remember the name) that I was planing to using after the backerboard and mortar, but the guy and Home Depot told me that would be over kill.

oh'mike

A few general pointer and then I ask a few questions---

If you have a sloped pan and not a perfectly flat floor pitched to a straight line drain, you need small tiles----2x2 is a good size--American Olean makes a good one that has silicone spacers.

As to raising the drain? I have no idea what is there now----some can be unscrewd to adjust the height other times you will need to head to the plumbing supply house for an adapter---

Walls---after applying the waterproof membrane---start on the back wall----then the side walls---a butt joint is fine in the corners.

Floor is done first---then cut wall tiles about 1/8" above those---caulk the floor/wall seam as well as the inside corners of the walls---

Use a powdered thinset---modified----bucket mixed mastic must not be used in a shower.

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joecaption

Rule #1 in home repair, never ever count on anyone wearing an aprin to give advice.
If they knew what there were talking about they would be out making double the money doing it.
Grout and tile board is not water proof!.

oh'mike

That's Redguard---not over kill at all--you want that----tile and grout are not waterproof---water will get behind it--however small the amount---that waterproofing is you insurance against mildew in the walls.

Same reason you don't use mastic---it dissolves--the water seeping behind the tiles will soften it--causing mold and loose tiles

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adam7

Alright, good to know. I have a polymer modified mortar, so that would be what I need right? Hopefully at least that is right.

oh'mike

Powdered ?

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adam7

Yes, its powdered.

oh'mike

That's the product. You are ready to redguard and tile---

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Fix'n it

when i did my shower. i did the floor last. it turned out excellent. wall tiles, start with the second row from the floor, use a ledger board. and make that row just a little lower than the tile height. then, when installing the bottom row, you will just trim a little bit off the bottom = you will not even notice it. but, if you are going all the way to the ceiling, you will have to balance out how you want to cut tile/s to look. me, i went with a 1/3 tile at the top, and a 1/3 tile at the bottom. it looked just fine.

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fltdek

I would have asked to speak to his manager!!

JazMan

Adam,

Based on your question #4, I would be interested how that floor was built. Sounds like you removed the old tiles and are tiling over the old mud deck. But we don't know much about that. I also wonder how old it is.

Jaz

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