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Old 07-27-2009, 09:47 PM   #61
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Shower leaking need to re tile


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is the kerdi drain....must buy?
Yes if you intend to use the KERDI shower floor method.

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I see kerdi for shower, and ditra for regular floors...
Correct.


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What do you think about the Kerdi shower tray?
They are fool proof and have a place but not in every application unfortunately.

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Better yet....thinking about the whole ....Kerdi kit.......pan, membrane, and drain... in case i do mess up the mortar slope.
Don't see how you can "mess up" doing the slope yourself but ya never know! If your dimensions fit the kit then go that route.

If your drain egress is centered you'll likely be OK. You can cut the plastic pans down some if you do so equally on all sides. You can also extend the pans a little but again the sides should be equal.

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Old 07-27-2009, 10:11 PM   #62
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Shower leaking need to re tile


well my shower is to funny shaped.. I talked to 2 stores today around me that sell this... both said " you can by the 72x72 pan and cut anyway you like" My shower 42"x59" and has the angle on one side... can see in previous pictures... will do some more slope research if it looks like i cannot handle will hire someone to build the slope.
Again thanks for all of the help... i have learned alot from this forum.

am i missing anything on the new stuff? I know 2 more 2x4's on the door entrance but i need one more 1x4 on left wall before. will just put backer board as close to existing floor/wall backer board that i can ?Safe?
THe ply is 23/32nd.. can i add one more 1/2 piece just so shower is more sturdy? Or will it be too high?
I added 2x4 braces every 16" under the ply floor.









Last edited by Ineedhelp2009; 07-27-2009 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:29 AM   #63
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Shower leaking need to re tile


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My shower 42"x59" and has the angle on one side... can see in previous pictures...
Not finding that picture. Are you talking about the angled wall that divides the tub and shower? With the bench inside the shower how does that angle get to the floor?

Quote:
THe ply is 23/32nd.. can i add one more 1/2 piece just so shower is more sturdy?
Sure, shouldn't be a problem.

I think you should also remove wall tile to the same elevation on all walls. Once you go back with new things don't always work out so good. A straight line would be easier to doctor with a listello or deco-liner, etc.
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Old 07-28-2009, 10:11 AM   #64
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Not finding that picture. Are you talking about the angled wall that divides the tub and shower? With the bench inside the shower how does that angle get to the floor?


Sure, shouldn't be a problem.

I think you should also remove wall tile to the same elevation on all walls. Once you go back with new things don't always work out so good. A straight line would be easier to doctor with a listello or deco-liner, etc.

The same angle you see dividing tub and shower is the same angle inside....it's not a regular rectangle....about a 45 degree angle on that one side.... - but if i did a bench i am sure i could have a square for a pan.... but I do not intend to put a bench back, more room without bench..... Just one of those trapezoid shapes off that corner that is small enough to hold shampoo and stuff....

I will remove wall tile evenly - good call..... .... luckily HD still carries the wall tile... going to do shower floor with 2 different 6x6 tiles - greenish and cream tiles

Last edited by Ineedhelp2009; 07-28-2009 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:04 PM   #65
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The same angle you see dividing tub and shower is the same angle inside....it's not a regular rectangle....about a 45 degree angle on that one side....
OK, Got it! Still no reason you can't easily cast your own cement receptor if you use the KERDI system. The KERDI Drain is a must however.

Quote:
but I do not intend to put a bench back, more room without bench.....
If you still want a bench take a look at the "Better Bench". Just a corner triangle hung from the wall, it will support 400#'s. The Better Bench won't effect the footprint but requires a square corner. They also offer a small version to be used as a shampoo shelf. There is also a niche offered for a soap dish. (Recess-it)
http://www.innoviscorp.com

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I will remove wall tile evenly
Expect a variance in the surface of the two walls. Don't ask me why - it just happens. This is why I would suggest using a "decorative liner" or "listello" at the juncture of the old and the new wall tile. It will disrupt what the eye sees and any variance will become a moot issue.



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going to do shower floor with 2 different 6x6 tiles
Not impossible but using a 6" tile for a sloping floor could be an issue. Typically (and by code) the floor should slope 1/4" per foot of run to the drain. This may be difficult to get a 6" tile to look right while trying to maintain the slope. A smaller tile is a much better idea, maybe not larger than 2". Keep in mind that as your tiles try to surround the floor drain you will have gains and losses in the distance from wall to wall due to the slope. The wall to wall distance at the floor drain will be greater than the wall to wall distance at the base of the walls. This phenomenon will be occurring in both directions at the same time and 6" tile isn't likely to conform without some teetering and some lippage. Generally 3" tiles are the maximum size you can easily use.

This isn't to say larger tiles can't be used but it requires some comprehensive engineering of the slope. I have used 12" tiles in the past but it was a huge PITA.
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:04 PM   #66
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OK, Got it! Still no reason you can't easily cast your own cement receptor if you use the KERDI system. The KERDI Drain is a must however.


If you still want a bench take a look at the "Better Bench". Just a corner triangle hung from the wall, it will support 400#'s. The Better Bench won't effect the footprint but requires a square corner. They also offer a small version to be used as a shampoo shelf. There is also a niche offered for a soap dish. (Recess-it)
http://www.innoviscorp.com



Expect a variance in the surface of the two walls. Don't ask me why - it just happens. This is why I would suggest using a "decorative liner" or "listello" at the juncture of the old and the new wall tile. It will disrupt what the eye sees and any variance will become a moot issue.




Not impossible but using a 6" tile for a sloping floor could be an issue. Typically (and by code) the floor should slope 1/4" per foot of run to the drain. This may be difficult to get a 6" tile to look right while trying to maintain the slope. A smaller tile is a much better idea, maybe not larger than 2". Keep in mind that as your tiles try to surround the floor drain you will have gains and losses in the distance from wall to wall due to the slope. The wall to wall distance at the floor drain will be greater than the wall to wall distance at the base of the walls. This phenomenon will be occurring in both directions at the same time and 6" tile isn't likely to conform without some teetering and some lippage. Generally 3" tiles are the maximum size you can easily use.

This isn't to say larger tiles can't be used but it requires some comprehensive engineering of the slope. I have used 12" tiles in the past but it was a huge PITA.

Building my own slope and buying kerdi drain, corners, roll, and 5" connecting roll.....

wow it was 12" tile's from the beginning. I may re consider and look at the mesh sheets with 10-15 small tiles on them....
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:32 PM   #67
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holy cow the 2x2 on a sheet $10 sq foot :O
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:41 PM   #68
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holy cow the 2x2 on a sheet $10 sq foot
Ah-h-h-h-h-h! Are you sure? Five bucks a square foot was the going rate not too long ago.

Check another source.
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:47 PM   #69
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Ah-h-h-h-h-h! Are you sure? Five bucks a square foot was the going rate not too long ago.

Check another source.
just checking with HD only... there is a floor and decor close by will check there. (if picky wife finds something she likes) .... so far with tile purchased and and kerdi i am buying ....$650 seems to do the whole project!!! w/ my new hammer drill and tile saw
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Old 08-02-2009, 03:19 PM   #70
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Ah-h-h-h-h-h! Are you sure? Five bucks a square foot was the going rate not too long ago.

Check another source.
Well new tile does not match... way off...... how would you approach the outside? walls? you can see in pics on previous post....


Considering re doing whole shower so it matches.... looked into a listello.. well I have a border close to ceiling which matches bathroom floor.... 2 would look funny.

What would you do?

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Old 08-02-2009, 03:27 PM   #71
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"What would I do?"

I wouldn't even attempt to do what you are doing, too many issues with that approach. I grew out of that type of rehab about a decade ago.

I would redo 100% or I wouldn't get involved but of course "not getting involved" isn't an option for you necessarily.
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Old 08-02-2009, 04:30 PM   #72
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"What would I do?"

I wouldn't even attempt to do what you are doing, too many issues with that approach. I grew out of that type of rehab about a decade ago.

I would redo 100% or I wouldn't get involved but of course "not getting involved" isn't an option for you necessarily.
Rehab like that

Well i am kind of leaning that way........how far would you kerdi the walls now? (shower head high?)Will rip all the tile out.....

My next Q the tile that does not match

is also on top of both sinks, and the whole surrounding around the big tub.....what would you do about that....see picture where it is outside the shower as well....



here's a picture



new seat wife wanted it higher





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Old 08-02-2009, 11:43 PM   #73
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I don't see a problem with a different tile outside of the shower especially if it matches other stuff.

A typical seat/bench is 19" above the finished floor. Anything higher is a slip hazard because proper footing in a wet area is an issue when leaning instead of sitting firmly.

I would KERDI to the ceiling juncture but you can also KERDI 3-6 inches above the dam and then use liquid waterproofing up from there sealing the KERDI edge on the wall in the process.
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Old 08-03-2009, 06:34 AM   #74
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I don't see a problem with a different tile outside of the shower especially if it matches other stuff.

A typical seat/bench is 19" above the finished floor. Anything higher is a slip hazard because proper footing in a wet area is an issue when leaning instead of sitting firmly.

I would KERDI to the ceiling juncture but you can also KERDI 3-6 inches above the dam and then use liquid waterproofing up from there sealing the KERDI edge on the wall in the process.
will call dal tile and see if there is any different shades... if not will redo all tile in and outside shower.

Now seat sits 20" high. think will be safe to use 1/4" durarock vs. 1/2" just on top of seat to keep it around 19/20" mark after floor is done?

Will check into the liquid waterproofing! Sounds cheaper!

THanks again.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:09 AM   #75
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You'll be fine with the bench in that area, 19" is a nominal number. The 1/4" Durock should work fine under those circumstances just be sure to bed it in thinset when you install it. THEN, waterproof it a-plenty with a liquid waterproofing. Home Depot sells Redgard, Others have Mapei HPG, Laticrete 9235 and Laticrete Floor and Wall Waterproofing, all are brushable. There are several others.

Actually the liquid waterproofing does cost less in the long run based on my experience. Their "spread-rates" listed on the labels are much less than what the product usually does. I also mesh tape my junctures and thinset them to fill the cracks and voids, then add the waterproofing after everything is dry. More than one coat is typically necessary.

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