My sub-contractor has installed drywall. I am thinking about what I should do next.
Right now I want to continue by the following order:
1. Prime drywall
2. Paint drywall
3. Put a layer of 1/2" plywood in bedrooms and living room.
4. Put a layer of 1/2" hardibacker in bathrooms and kitchen
5. Install laminate floor in bedrooms and living room.
6. Install tiles in bathrooms and kitchen
7. Install interior doors
8. Install cabinets and counter tops.
9. Install crown molding and baseboard
10. Tape around molding, then spray paint them.
11. final touch up.
I don't know if this is the correct order since I am a first time house owner.
Mud tape texture drywall,
MOISTURE TEST THE FLLOR BEFORE installing any further flooring ,Or plywood , This is a simple test most any competent hardwood floor company will have a moisture meter , The reason is , After all the mud tape ,texture and paint there will be MUCH moisture emmitted , You nee to make sure the floor is withing maunfactures spec for moisture befor instally any wood product over it , AND DON'T think they can't tell , If the floor buckles it will be obvious , If your contractor doesn't know about this calll a few flooring contractors and ask about it
tacomahardwoodfloors.com
The order of things......
3. What is the current subfloor in these areas? Do you need the plywood? What type of plywood were you thinking? Do you know?
The current subfloor is 80 years old redwood planks. There are so many bad spots which I can't fix quickly. That's why I want an extra layer of subfloor. I am thinking about 5-ply 1/2" plywood, just like the shear wall.
OK, I guess you need the plywood, the more the better. But, you should repair/replace any damaged planks anyway. 1/2" ply isn't strong enough by its self over a weak subfloor.
Do you have planks where the Hardie and tiles are planned? If so, I hope you know you'l need plywood there too. I believe you left that out in your plans in #3.
You can NOT install the backer direct over the planks. You can use 1/4" Hardie however, or go premium with Ditra. Ditra adds only 1/8" total instead of min. 5/16 for 1/4" Hardie.
I guess I will fix planks first. Then add 1/2" plywood all around the house. Ditra will be installed in kitchen and bathrooms after that.
Is Ditra really better than hardibacker?
The two can not be compared except that you could use either on a floor. Hardie give you a good surface to install tiles to. That's it.
Ditra is an uncoupling matting that isolates the subfloor from the tile work so stresses in the floor do not crack tiles or grout. It also equalizes moisture (vapor) in the substrate from ruining the job. (You don't have that). It's also waterproof if you want to make the floor waterproof.
It's also light weight, only adds 1/8", but it costs about double the price of a CBU.
When you go buy the 1/2" ply I know you'l be tempted to buy the cheap sheathing stuff. Please resist and buy the right one. Use a good underlayment grade with the plies glued with exterior glue.
That's a very high quality plywood underlayment, you can use it. You don't have to go that good though. B/C underlayment is fine, just no C/D grade. Aside from poor quality veneers, C/D can also have voids in the inner plies.
Halex plywood adds more strength than the corresponding thickness of regular plywood. If you go with regular, do not consider anything that is 1/4". Min. is 3/8 under some conditions, generally 1/2" is recommended.
Jaz
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