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Old 03-26-2012, 01:43 PM   #1
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Self Leveling Q


I have a concrete floor on grade which I am putting a subfloor heating system (wires) and then slate tile.

The floor has had previous repairs due to a water issue that has been fixed. The previous layer of self-leveler wasn't installed very well. I am going to follow the followqing steps. Let me know if I'm missing anything:

1. I ground the floor smooth- this is to remove old leveler that was very uneven
2. Use Sheet membrane to span a couple hairline cracks in the floor. Apply with versabond.
3. Lay out heating grid & wire
4. Pour self leveler to cover grid.
5. TIle

Ok my questions:
-When to I put the latex self leveling compound on?
1. Prior to applying crack membrane- i.e. just put it on concrete
2. After the crack membrane? Do I use it on the membrane?
3. After the wire? i.e. put it on the cables and all?

-Do I need to leave a space at the perimeter of the room for the self-leveling compound to expand? i.e. Can I pour right up to the wall or should I put something down to allow expansion?
-If I need to put something around the room perimeter can you suggest products and how much? ex: I saw something about using foam strips which get chiseled below the leveler level after it sets up.

Thanks


Last edited by Polapea; 03-26-2012 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:53 AM   #2
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We prime the surface, install the cable, pour the leveler, install the membrane (ditra usually) and install the tile. Yes you need an expansion gap. We usually use Sill Seal, which is just a thin foam band used to seal the walls to the sill plate of a house. Should be available at any building supply store.

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Old 03-27-2012, 07:38 AM   #3
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Thanks Poppa. Sill Seal it is.

The installer I talked wasn't a big fan of Ditra in our application. She said installing the membrane over the cracks prior to self leveler would be the way to go.
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:58 AM   #4
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We've always gone by what Schluter says. The method I gave you is outlined in their Ditra installation manual. Noble Company has told us the same thing in the past.
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:11 PM   #5
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Self Leveling Q


The floor has more cracks than first noticed. None are bad but I want to really prevent any future problems.

Can I use redguard & crack isolation membrane? I was thinking of using the redguard after the SLC then membrane the "bad areas".
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:01 AM   #6
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You already have two systems in place, especially if you are using a heat mat. The mat acts very much like a plastic lath when embedded in SLC, which give you some crack suppression. Then you are putting your actual uncoupling membrane over top of that. You are getting overkill to add anything else to it. What membrane are you using?
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Old 03-31-2012, 12:05 PM   #7
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I'm using nobelseal just where the cracks are.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:20 AM   #8
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You'd be much better off to just apply the membrane to the entire floor. Doing it in patches will not provide the protection you are looking for. It'll also cause issues getting the tile level. You'll have to build up the slightest bit with thinset to level the tiles out. I know it does seem like it should effect it much considering the thickness of Nobleseal but you'd be surprised.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:35 AM   #9
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I planned to membrane the entire floor but when I discussed this with the tile place, the owner told me just to do the cracked areas. I guess they don't like the idea of a complete uncoupling layer.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:47 AM   #10
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I'd recommend you call the Noble Company directly and get their recommendation. They are great to work with. I can't see them recommending any system other than a complete membrane though.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:21 AM   #11
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Did call Noble and they told me using the membrane only at crack locations is fine. They suggested covering the crack by at least a tiles width worth of membrane i.e hariline crack w/ 18" tiles means a 3' wide pc. The rep also said use a soft joint along these areas.

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