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Old 03-14-2012, 10:40 PM   #31
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


You need to check why. Something is warped or has sagged. The joists and subfloor need to be fully supported and everything must be flat. A shim might be in order if it doesn't raise the joist.

I don't remember what joists you have. They were 2x8 right? Did we check the deflection ratings for the intended purpose?

Jaz

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Old 03-15-2012, 05:55 AM   #32
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


You can get some pretty thin shims...wood or other materials...at the big box stores...you shouldn't have to move anything to use them...unless you are talking about a very small gap.

The non-wood shims don't shrink...and may be your best bet...however, I like the wooden ones.

Last edited by Ed911; 03-17-2012 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:09 AM   #33
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Duffman, how thick are your boards? I saw u mentioned there very narrow these sizes may play a good part on why you still have movement.
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:38 AM   #34
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Yes you can and must shim the joists.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:35 PM   #35
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


The joists are 1 5/8" x 5 5/8" with 16" span o.c. We're using a snap line to mark where the joists so we know where to screw. When doing this the line was tight and I noticed that the center (basically where there was movement before) was about 1/4" lower than the edges where we had the chalk line.

Do I need to try and raise the joist to counter this, or should I only try to add enough shim to establish contact between the I-beam and the joists?

While in the hardware store I noticed some metal straps maybe 1/16" to 1/8" thick, 1.5" wide. Would these work well to shim under the joists?
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:16 PM   #36
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


I would just get shims regular wood or plastic shims. One in from one side, one in from the other. Tap into place, secure. And also take a look and see if you can see why the joist settled that much. It may need a vertical support under it.
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:56 PM   #37
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Quote:
The joists are 1 5/8" x 5 5/8" with 16" span o.c.
What? We need to discuss this.

Jaz
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:09 PM   #38
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Quote:
For joists that are SYP or Douglas Fir, in good condition, 5.5 inches tall, 1.5 inches wide, 16 inches on center, and 10 feet long between supports, the deflection calculated is 0.510 inches.

This translates to a deflection of L / 235.

Since the maximum deflection for tile is L / 360, and for natural stone is L / 720, your floor is rated for Sheet Vinyl or wood.
How far is your joist span?
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:31 AM   #39
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Jaz, you have me worried!

The span is 6' 10" from foundation to first I-beam, and 6' 3" from first I-beam to the second one. I entered all this info into a deflection calculator (on John Bridge's forum) and it said the deflection was suitable for ceramic (but not stone) tile.

I have already purchased all the materials thinking we could tile and based on this deflection calculator. Please tell me we can still tile?
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:11 AM   #40
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Plywood for subfloor relies on how far apart your joists are and how big they are not how long they are from footing to footing.

I think we might all be confused on the height And with I think you put down the exact is would be like 2x6 2x8 2x 10 or 12's.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:25 AM   #41
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


The measurements he put down are generally the true measurements for a 2x6. Aren't they? That seems small for a floor, but I'm used to the beefy construction of old houses.

And plywood or not, doesn't the underlying structural strength of the joists determine the floors stability? Yes, of course the plywood will add stability, but the joists still ultimately carry the load. I have cracked joists in my attic, it does happen.
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:26 PM   #42
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


According to John Bridge's "Deflect-o-lator" (http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl), they are 2x6s. I used a generous 7' for joist span, and entered all other information exactly. I hope this deflection calculator is accurate, and that we can still tile.
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:32 PM   #43
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Quote:
Originally Posted by mnp13 View Post
Tap into place, secure.
Mnp13, you are referring to shimming between the underlying I-beam and the joist, correct? How would you secure them?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mnp13 View Post
And also take a look and see if you can see why the joist settled that much.
I'm guessing the joist settled because of all the added weight that was not originally there. The floor had the original 3/4" t&g (which we are keeping), 1/4" ply on top of this, a layer of linoleum, 1/2" particle board, and another layer of linoleum on top all of this. Perhaps this is why the steel I-beams were added?

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Originally Posted by mnp13 View Post
It may need a vertical support under it.
What do you mean by this? Wouldn't the shims provide support under the joists?
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:29 PM   #44
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Duffman,

OK, sorry that clears it up.
Quote:
The span is 6' 10" from foundation to first I-beam, and 6' 3" from first I-beam to the second one.
I didn't see where you had ever said the joists were 2x6 spanning only under 7'.

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Old 03-16-2012, 09:03 PM   #45
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Securing plank subfloor to joists?


Yeah I don't know that I had ever specified the span, I should have. Good to know we can still tile!

Regarding the shims, would metal perhaps be ideal?

Prying up the joist just barely enough to get the strips under the joist?

I guess for some reason this sounds better to me than going in from each side with wood shims, but I don't want to argue with the experts (I'm just not sure how to get the wedge shaped wooden shims to stay).

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