Screws for floor reinforcement joists?

Didymus21

I know screws are frowned upon with joists, however, if I'm simply reinforcing a floor to reduce deflection for tile can I get away with it? If not, any recommendations on how to sink nails in a crowded crawl space? Every one wants to bend on me and then it takes a Nordic God to pry them out. Getting frustrated

joecaption

Framing nailer works best.
You could also use a Palm nailer. (Google it) Going to need a compressor to run them.

Didymus21

Thanks, I was just about to ask if this would likely solve the problem (palm nailer). I think it's worth the price to avoid the frustration. Thanks for the input.

housegsx

I was also going to recommend a palm nailer. It's an extremely handy tool, I use mine all the time.

Didymus21

I started installing floor joists to reinforce my floor and then I ran into a problem I'm not sure how to deal with. The concrete foundation has a step in it that I now have to figure out how to deal with. I've attached pictures to show how it looks.

Do I notch out the boards before using the joist hangers to fill the gap? (The dark grey/brown thing on the joist in the pic is a hanger)



or do I just butt the boards up to the foundation and use joist hangers?




Also, I'm nervous about nailing into my foundation....is there any other alternative?

joecaption

Looking at that picture it sure looks like your trying to use subflooring in direct contact with concrete, a big no no.
Where's the rim joist and bottom plate?

Didymus21

I'll crawl down and get a picture that shows exactly what's going on. My model was an estimation of what the issue is. I'd assume that what's visible behind the concrete is the sill plate. The home is Post and Beam construction. Nothing else runs between the beams and the exterior wall of the house (exterior wall is pictured here). Nowhere does the subfloor meet concrete.





Boy I love being under the house...

oh'mike

I didn't see the link to your pictures----If you are adding blocking--screws should be fine--use gold screws--the black drywall screws are hardened and are brittle.

If you are sistering in new joists--I'd find a way to nail it--a palm nailer is a good choice in a tight spot---framing nailers can get dangerous in a crawl space----without seeing your picture it is hard to comment on the notching---but some is acceptable----

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Didymus21

Try it now, Mike. I think the pictures were still uploading when you took a look. Notching would take off about 80% of the board on that side.

How do I secure the joist hangers into the concrete on the exterior wall side?

oh'mike

You were right---the old internet connection get real sloooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow when it rains.

You will need some hangers---how long are the new floor joists going to be? A ledger could be attached to the concrete and hangers nailed into the ledger----- or each hanger could be attached to the concrete with tapcon screws--ledger would be preferred---

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Didymus21

Should the ledger cover some of that gap in the concrete? If I put it level with the concrete I won't have anything to nail the upper part of the hanger to. New joists will be 2x6 d/t existing plumbing and will be about 48" long. Will also put blocking between those.