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Old 11-12-2010, 08:07 AM   #16
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Thanks! One more thing: What's the best result application? Brush? 10" Lambskin applicator?

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Old 11-12-2010, 11:16 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandra lee
Thanks! One more thing: What's the best result application? Brush? 10" Lambskin applicator?
The guys cut un the edges with a big brush alike a fence brush five inch ,and another used what you called lambskin applicator i think thats whats its called.. They dipped out of a five gallon bucket and left the applicator in the bucket until the next application. No need to clean it and no hard laquer in the applicator. They bought the finish in 1 qt containers and turned it in the truck so sediment would not settle. They used two differnent finnishes. 2nd was bonakime. Not sure of the first. Not the water based crap either

Good luck and take your time i sure you guys will do fine
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:25 PM   #18
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okay. We've already bought the poly in gallon form. If we leave the applicator in the bucket won't it dry in the bucket since I'm not putting on the second coat for about 8 hours?
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Old 11-13-2010, 05:40 AM   #19
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okay. We've already bought the poly in gallon form. If we leave the applicator in the bucket won't it dry in the bucket since I'm not putting on the second coat for about 8 hours?
They used a five gallon bucket with a lid get dep depot bucket with a lid. The applicator was submereged in laquer. What i am getting at if you clean it make sure you get all the crap off so it doesn't flake off during finish.

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Old 11-13-2010, 08:15 AM   #20
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I'm going to use the bucket - good idea. Two questions: How many coats of poly is on the floor in the pictures? Here's the MO - I want to put three coats on all within an 8-hour dry time so as to avoid sanding between coats.
Since this weekend is going to be warm during the day I can open the windows for the first coat, wait 8 hours, close the windows (since it's going to be cooler in the evening) and then put on the second coat. But if I leave the windows open overnight is it okay to put an enclosed space heater nearby to keep the condensation off the floor?
I know it sounds like I'm making this too complicated but I really don't know the best way to do this.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:09 AM   #21
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Not to sound like a jackass, but you've made almost EVERY DIY mistake that I've seen in the 14 years that I'm doing this. Why don't you just hire a pro to do it? With the money your wasting on renting equipment, and buying belts, poly, and other sundries, wouldn't that be the right descision?

You've gotten some good advise in this thread from others, but IMO mine is the best.

People fail to realize that sanding, and refinishing a floor is NOT a DIY project. It takes years of experience to learn how to do this correctly. You can not go online, and read HOW TO BOOKS, and watch Videos. It takes real world first hand experience under the guidance of an experienced tradesman.

HOME DEPOT'S NEW TAGLINE SHOULD BE
"You can do it, we can help.... Except with floor refinishing" lol

Last edited by lawndart; 11-13-2010 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:19 AM   #22
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I'm going to use the bucket - good idea. Two questions: How many coats of poly is on the floor in the pictures? Here's the MO - I want to put three coats on all within an 8-hour dry time so as to avoid sanding between coats.
Since this weekend is going to be warm during the day I can open the windows for the first coat, wait 8 hours, close the windows (since it's going to be cooler in the evening) and then put on the second coat. But if I leave the windows open overnight is it okay to put an enclosed space heater nearby to keep the condensation off the floor?
I know it sounds like I'm making this too complicated but I really don't know the best way to do this.


Everything your writing above is wrong. You need to screen in between coats with a buffer, if you want a smooth finish. Each coat needs to be fully dried, before you can apply the next coat. Weather conditions will effect the dry times of each coat. A good oil based polyurethane will typically take between 12-24 hours to dry.

Please do not open your windows, as this will allow debris from outside to get into the finish. Close your windows and set the temperature inside the home to around 70 degrees.

You should still hire a pro to do this IMO. Good Luck
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:32 AM   #23
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I was just following directions on the back of the can about not having to sand if you put the second coat on within 10 hours, and the directions about telling you to make sure there is plenty of ventilation.
I'll rethink the part about the dry time and sanding inbetween the coats.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:38 AM   #24
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I was just following directions on the back of the can about not having to sand if you put the second coat on within 10 hours, and the directions about telling you to make sure there is plenty of ventilation.
I'll rethink the part about the dry time and sanding inbetween the coats.

Are you using an oil, or waterbased finish? What brand?
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:50 AM   #25
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"Minwax, Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors. 50% faster recoat time, no sanding between coats." It's oil-based.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:18 AM   #26
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"Minwax, Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors. 50% faster recoat time, no sanding between coats." It's oil-based.
This may be the case for this product, however any good oil based product will require you to sand in between coats, and will take 12-24 hours to dry. That being said, if your minwax product doesn't require all of the above, what do you think they took away to make it so? Do you think this Minwax product will be just as durable, as a professional grade product?

My guess, is even with 3 coats of this minwax product, you will be resanding in less than 3 years. On the other hand, if you were to use a professional grade finish it would last you 10 years minimum, before you started to see wear through.

It's not your fault Sandra. Home depot markets to people, telling them how easy it is to do ("You can do it, we can help")("More saving, More doing"). They also stock inferior products from otherwise reputable manufacturers, because these manufacturers, are forced to cut quality, and prices, in order to sell volume in the Home Depot market at extremely low margins.

In most cases you are getting bad advice, and inferior products, when you deal with the big box stores. Good luck Sandra

Last edited by lawndart; 11-13-2010 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:12 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I'm going to use the bucket - good idea. Two questions: How many coats of poly is on the floor in the pictures? Here's the MO - I want to put three coats on all within an 8-hour dry time so as to avoid sanding between coats.
Since this weekend is going to be warm during the day I can open the windows for the first coat, wait 8 hours, close the windows (since it's going to be cooler in the evening) and then put on the second coat. But if I leave the windows open overnight is it okay to put an enclosed space heater nearby to keep the condensation off the floor?
I know it sounds like I'm making this too complicated but I really don't know the best way to do this.
Two coats but its bona for the second coat. Not sur what the first coat was. It commercial grade the stuff the pros use.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:06 PM   #28
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Two coats but its bona for the second coat. Not sur what the first coat was. It commercial grade the stuff the pros use.
Lawnwart is right . Thats why i hired a pro for my floors. Same with the plaster. These guys were good and you see the results. If you think you can do it by all means good luck. And don't leave the windows open vent using a bathroom. Dust on the finish not cool.
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:13 PM   #29
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Lawnwart is right . Thats why i hired a pro for my floors. Same with the plaster. These guys were good and you see the results. If you think you can do it by all means good luck. And don't leave the windows open vent using a bathroom. Dust on the finish not cool.
How did you guys make out?
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:18 AM   #30
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Lawn dart told you the way it is . The only difference in the way I do it is , I do not sand between coats , I buff it with a 120 screen , Lawndart probably means screen . And I don't screen untill the second coat of finish over stain because I have buffed through . I have previuosly given you proffesional advice which you seem to disreguard , Lawn Dart and I are proffesionals . look at the web links ... My site, his site , the woman that said she had professionals do the floor , Well That doesn't appear to be a stain on white oak , It looks like Poly only . You will be ok with the home depot minwax poly , I have used it . also has been said water base is "CRAP ". I use professional water base 2 part pallx 98 . or Berger seidle , both prices far exceed home depot min wax , you get what you pay for . To Endorse what lawn dart said , you can forget 3 coats in one day and don't open the window , Turn the pilots off . Why play with fire and a flammable finish ? DUH ? use your head here . Buff with a 120 screen between the 2nd and 3rd coat , Vacum and tack . If you use a block brush or just a big paint brush you will be better off as a home owner , I POUR the finish on the floor and spread it with a Tbar and applicator , As a home owner you can forget that , It takes practice , USE A LARGE paint brush , You also won't be so likely to be able to get it on very thick , Or thick as I do . Or have the experience to not get it tooooo THICK , So just paint it on. If you need a 4th coat paint it on , It will take you longer , But as a begginner you will do better with a brush , the lambs wool applicator will be your nemisis , It takes skill also . Again just paint it on , I come on here to help people . I have little other purpose , I could be bowling , Or sleeping . Most of the advice except lawn darts is wrong period . The woman that had her floor done by people that opened quart cans for 1.75 per square ft , Well I never seen a pro do a floor with quart cans , And there were animal urine stains left in the floor , I would be embarrased to put my name on that floor , Those boards should of been replaced , She also told you too finish it with a drum sander , WRONG !!! The drum will leave end marks with stain .You have to edge them out then vibe . Then buff the whole thing with 120 screen to make it even . you can take our advice or not . but thats the way it is done . tacomahardwoodfloors.com

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