Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Flooring

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-25-2010, 02:10 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bay Village, Ohio
Posts: 21
Share |
Default

To resand or not resand...


My husband and I just spent A LOT of time sanding our bedroom floor and we've already put on a coat of penetrating oil-based stain. It's a bungalow so the whole upstairs is our bedroom/bathroom. There's the main floor and the a long hallway to go downstairs. The main part came out just fine but the hallway isn't. To make a long story short - I didn't think my husband sanded the hallway good enough so I went over it with the smaller rented sander/edger which put all kinds of unsightly waves it in. It's not like the wood is gouged but you can see on the surface where the rotary sander went amuck! I should have just left it as is but that's a moot point now. We're so disgusted with it. I suggested just renting a belt sander and doing the hallway only over. My husband said we'd have to do the whole floor otherwise you'll be able to tell the difference. I'm thinking if we sand it down and be precise on which board we stop at then I'll be able to line up the stain. He said no matter how much we sand, there's already a coat of stain on that we won't be able to get off because it's penetrating and one side will look darker. I disagree. I'm almost just tempted to throw a runner over it and forget it! Any advice?

sandra lee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 02:40 PM   #2
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bay Village, Ohio
Posts: 21
Default

To resand or not resand...


Also, will layers of polyurethane make the wavy marks left by the sander disappear?

sandra lee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 06:52 PM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bay Village, Ohio
Posts: 21
Default

To resand or not resand...


Here's the floor!
Attached Thumbnails
To resand or not resand...-026.jpg  
sandra lee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 07:16 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South of Boston, MA
Posts: 17,248
Default

To resand or not resand...


Poly will not make that go away
It will cover it
But you will still see the swirls
You need to sand it smooth
Scuba_Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 08:07 PM   #5
nap
You talking to me?
 
nap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: sw mi
Posts: 5,407
Default

To resand or not resand...


I am not all that well versed in flooring but I believe the swirls will not be hidden.

also, it is very difficult to match existing floor finishes, let alone if the wood it stained. The best method I have found if you really don't want to redo everything is to find a break line. As you go down a hall, as you pass a doorway, that is a natural break and you can often get away with less than a perfect match at points such as that. The problem I see in your pic is is goes from hall and continues on into the room with no place to really break.

I would think you either end up redoing everything, allow a runner to cover where the new finish ends and the old one starts, or learn about active ignorance (usually not a good choice. It eats away at you no matter how hard you try to ignore it)

and I prefer a belt sander although some people I know have had decent success with a large pad (about 18 inches or so) rotary sander. If belt sanding, sand only with the grain. Be sure to use successively finer grades of sandpaper. Honestly cannot tell you how fine it should be for the final sand though. It's been too long and I don't remember what worked for me.
nap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 08:17 PM   #6
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bay Village, Ohio
Posts: 21
Default

To resand or not resand...


Hindsight is 20/20! My husband did use the belt sander and it actually was fine - no swirls. It's just that I was working with the edge sander and when I was done it seemed as though my edges were lighter than his center so I decided to, just for the heck of it, run the edger which was a rotary sander over what he had done to match it up. BIG MISTAKE! I guess we'll go and re-rent the belt sander, and I agree, I DON'T want to do the whole thing. I think I'll just run it all the way down the hallway and be very careful when I restain it to not overlap.
thanks for your advice!
sandra lee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 09:34 PM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 24
Default

To resand or not resand...


i did the same thing once, and just left it alone, I think you should try to sand it with a fine grit sander. Belt sander from home depot will work.
philsoldat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 09:55 PM   #8
Newbie
 
Mabc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Richmond, Indiana
Posts: 18
Default

To resand or not resand...


Wow....

I think the best thing to do would be to sand the whole floor with a light sanding pad, to even it all out, but just remember, sand with the grain!
Mabc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 11:04 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 146
Default

To resand or not resand...


I have never made that mistake , So to explain , What I would try is .Take a vibe sander and redo the edges with 120 grit ,with a 500 watt halogen on the floor so you can see the floor at an angle with the light , and hence the sander marks , Get them out , get a buffer and ten 120 grit buffer screens and buff the heck out of it till most or all the stain is gone in both areas Then test the stain in a small area on end grain , If the vibe sander made it lighter then go down a grit . What the problem is mainly .... You didn't final buff the whole thing to even it out , And yes the penetrating stain will buff out it will just take a while , And If you did not edge with 120 then you need to do that first , basically you need to final sand and buff properly , I know it doesn't seem to make sense to buff with a buffer that turns , Biut a fine enough grit will not show , Test an area , 120 usually does it , Don't bicker with your husband , I remodel all the time use some diplomacy . It's always a test to do jobs together . But I would rebuff . Or you will have to live with it , Finish will not make it better .But finish will hide a little , But not much . Check it with a halogen at an angle
tacomahardwoodfloors.com
tacomahardwood. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2010, 06:38 AM   #10
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bay Village, Ohio
Posts: 21
Default

To resand or not resand...


I know - it's a mess. There's no way I'm leaving it like it is so it's back to the grindstone! I'll pass all this info on to my husband and whatever advice he keeps he keeps. At this point ANYTHING is better than what I've got now!
Thanks!
sandra lee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 08:04 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 188
Default

To resand or not resand...


Quote:
Originally Posted by sandra lee
I know - it's a mess. There's no way I'm leaving it like it is so it's back to the grindstone! I'll pass all this info on to my husband and whatever advice he keeps he keeps. At this point ANYTHING is better than what I've got now!
Thanks!
Keep the edger on the edges. The drum sander is what you should have gone with in this area. With the grain. Then try screening it. Before and after white oaks.
Attached Images
    
ianc435 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 08:17 PM   #12
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bay Village, Ohio
Posts: 21
Default

To resand or not resand...


Oh, your floor is beautiful! I can't wait! We re-sanded and restained and this weekend we're putting on the 3 coats of oil-based poly, high gloss! It says if we put on the second and third coats within ten hours we don't have to sand between coats so that's what we're planning on doing. Yes, I've got the respirator and it's going to be great weather outside so we'll have all the windows open!
sandra lee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 08:22 PM   #13
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Bay Village, Ohio
Posts: 21
Default

To resand or not resand...


Does anyone know anything about leaving our pilot light on in the furnace while putting down a coat of oil-based polyurethane? Our floor work is going on on the second floor. Of course the furnace is in the basement. How dangerous is that?
sandra lee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 08:28 PM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 188
Default

To resand or not resand...


Quote:
Originally Posted by sandra lee
Oh, your floor is beautiful! I can't wait! We re-sanded and restained and this weekend we're putting on the 3 coats of oil-based poly, high gloss! It says if we put on the second and third coats within ten hours we don't have to sand between coats so that's what we're planning on doing. Yes, I've got the respirator and it's going to be great weather outside so we'll have all the windows open!
Dont vent with room windows. Use a bathroom window. You will have dirt and dust settling on the floor. First coat won't smell bad. It soaks in. Second coat will smell. When your done wear socks or slips. Feet are moist and wil leave print in floor finish. Take two days to cure for light traffic three weeks for full cure. Tread light lighly with furniture. Felt pads. I hired pros for this. I can do lots of stuff but these were in bad shape. The guys spent two days and a total of five hours. Do not use shelaq. It is outlawed in mass and other states surely. My floor are a week old. Thet are white oak, the guys told me it was harder, which it is, and white oak could be sanded between ten an fifteen times. Cost 1.75 per. Sqft @ 500 sqft
Plus a small repair. This was well worth it and i am going to save up for my down stairs.
They used a bar brush? Not a roller.

Look closely in third pic. That was a piss stain from a animal. Its not that bad any more. Lucky it is in the middle= throw rug

Last edited by ianc435; 11-11-2010 at 08:35 PM.
ianc435 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2010, 06:43 AM   #15
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 188
Default

To resand or not resand...


Quote:
Originally Posted by sandra lee
Does anyone know anything about leaving our pilot light on in the furnace while putting down a coat of oil-based polyurethane? Our floor work is going on on the second floor. Of course the furnace is in the basement. How dangerous is that?
You should be fine. You will need the heat to dry it any way. It is laquer that was the problem, that is highly combustable. Laquer in mass is against the law unless you have a permit, and that means a detail from yhe fire department at your house during install. Vent the fist if you are worried. But remember to keep air movement to a minumum.

One more thing that these guys did. They kept the brushes in the finish and make sure you get the poly shaken at the paint store. Sediments can settle on the bottom of the can.

ianc435 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.