Replacing underlayment in entire house...what material to use?

Bud Cline · 12-22-2011, 09:44 AM

Whatever !

AGWhitehouse · 12-22-2011, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud Cline

Whatever !

Hahaha...

Dave321 · 12-22-2011, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGWhitehouse

Bud & OP, I'd say go with 3/4" T&G screwed down nice. That will appease all here and will give you a solid floor do anything you wish upon...

Thanks for your opinions. I don't think I can go wrong with 3/4" T&G. Now I just have to decide on ply vs. OSB.

cleveman · 12-22-2011, 10:51 PM

Thanks for the drawing. Looks like you are spanning less than 15.5' with your 2x10's, so you should be structurally ok with that.

I would go over the whole thing with 1/2" tilebacker rated to go over 1/2" subfloor for the "to be tiled" areas and for the other areas where you want wood, I would install 3/4" t&g wood on top of 30# felt paper and call it a day.

Dave321 · 12-22-2011, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleveman

Thanks for the drawing. Looks like you are spanning less than 15.5' with your 2x10's, so you should be structurally ok with that.

I would go over the whole thing with 1/2" tilebacker rated to go over 1/2" subfloor for the "to be tiled" areas and for the other areas where you want wood, I would install 3/4" t&g wood on top of 30# felt paper and call it a day.

I like the ideal of 3/4" T&G over the 1/2" ply. I was planning on the felt paper since it is over a crawl space.

I have already laid 3/4" ply + 1/4" hardiebacker over the 1/2" bottom sub-floor in the master bathroom to ensure there are no issues with deflection and was planning on this for the other tiled areas. The way I understand it, the hardie adds no structual benefit to a sub-floor.

Do you think the layering for my master bath is overkill or are you suggesting this so that the transitions between tile and carpet remain fairly level with each other without having to make height adjustments?

Thanks again for your suggestions.

AGWhitehouse · 12-23-2011, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave321

Do you think the layering for my master bath is overkill?

I don't, that is what I did for my bathroom and I've had no issues...

cleveman · 12-23-2011, 01:15 PM

I sheathe the floor with 3/4" t&g osb, then 1/2" tilebacker for tiled areas. For wood floors, I go directly over the sheathing with kraft paper, then t & g wood. this gives me minimal height variations.

In your case, I would be in contact with a tilebacker company and see what backer they would recommend to go over your 1/2 sheathing.

If such an animal exists, I would go with it. If such an animal does not exist, then I would go with whatever subfloor on top of the sheathing is necessary, then the tilebacker.

I like 1/2" tilebacker, although it is considered to be overkill by some. I like to order a pallet of 4x8 at a time, and I don't want to work with 1/4 material because I doubt I can get it delivered to the jobsite and installed on the floor without a lot of problems.

As a clarification, I was saying to put your finished floor (3/4" t&g wood) directly on top of your 1/2 floor sheathing, with kraft paper or 30# felt as a vapor barrier. Obviously, you will run it perp to your joists.

Bud Cline · 12-23-2011, 01:50 PM

Dave321 · 12-23-2011, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleveman

I sheathe the floor with 3/4" t&g osb, then 1/2" tilebacker for tiled areas. For wood floors, I go directly over the sheathing with kraft paper, then t & g wood. this gives me minimal height variations.

In your case, I would be in contact with a tilebacker company and see what backer they would recommend to go over your 1/2 sheathing.

If such an animal exists, I would go with it. If such an animal does not exist, then I would go with whatever subfloor on top of the sheathing is necessary, then the tilebacker.

I like 1/2" tilebacker, although it is considered to be overkill by some. I like to order a pallet of 4x8 at a time, and I don't want to work with 1/4 material because I doubt I can get it delivered to the jobsite and installed on the floor without a lot of problems.

As a clarification, I was saying to put your finished floor (3/4" t&g wood) directly on top of your 1/2 floor sheathing, with kraft paper or 30# felt as a vapor barrier. Obviously, you will run it perp to your joists.

Thanks for the clarification. I pretty much followed what you describe except I didn't use 1/2" backer mainly because I was trying to keep the layer height to a minimum.