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Robert Vogt 12-15-2011 10:59 AM

Replacing Carpt stairs with new Hardwood
 
Need some advice

Should I remove the plywood on the exsisting risers. they are 3/4 inch plywood. my measurment show that the show 7 3/4" from the top of one stair trad to the next one the tread width is 9" form the face of a riser to the face of the next riser. I assume that the risers are cut 7 3/4 " high by 9 3/4 deep. My new treads are 1" x 11 1/2 Red oak, and the risers are 3/4 red oak. seems to me that it would be eaiser to just use construction adehesive and 2 1/2 spiral finish nails which would give me a lot of surface to glue to. We have 17 of these stairs going to the second floor they provide the only access to the condo. my main concern is safety. And meeting code. Also there is no skirting just drywall on both sides, cheap and dirty construction with gaps between the dry wall and the stairs filled in with tape and mud.

titanoman 12-15-2011 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robert Vogt
Need some advice

Should I remove the plywood on the exsisting risers. they are 3/4 inch plywood. my measurment show that the show 7 3/4" from the top of one stair trad to the next one the tread width is 9" form the face of a riser to the face of the next riser. I assume that the risers are cut 7 3/4 " high by 9 3/4 deep. My new treads are 1" x 11 1/2 Red oak, and the risers are 3/4 red oak. seems to me that it would be eaiser to just use construction adehesive and 2 1/2 spiral finish nails which would give me a lot of surface to glue to. We have 17 of these stairs going to the second floor they provide the only access to the condo. my main concern is safety. And meeting code. Also there is no skirting just drywall on both sides, cheap and dirty construction with gaps between the dry wall and the stairs filled in with tape and mud.

I think code is already violated with your treads only being 9".
And I wouldn't remove the plywood.
Your new kit consists of "false treads and risers" as they are made to go over the "real" treads and risers.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2

Rover4 12-29-2011 11:37 AM

I thought the tread retro kits ("false treads and risers") were 5/8" thick. He said his new oak treads were 1" thick. Isn't that a full tread? How thick is a "real" stair tread?

titanoman 12-29-2011 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rover4 (Post 806393)
I thought the tread retro kits ("false treads and risers") were 5/8" thick. He said his new oak treads were 1" thick. Isn't that a full tread? How thick is a "real" stair tread?

Uh...Yes. Those must be the whole treads then. To be honest I haven't worked with those before.

titanoman 12-29-2011 11:46 AM

Oops.

BigJim 12-29-2011 01:15 PM

Regular treads are 1" thick, what do you have for treads now? If they are thicker or thinner than what you plan to reinstall you may not be in code. Also if you plan to install 11 1/2" treads on a 9 3/4 inch cut you will need to rip 1/2 inch off the back of your treads, that is too much over hang of the nosing to be in code. Don't rip all of the treads as the top step may be a little different according to how the stairs are framed.

If the 3/4" plywood you have for risers now looks good enough to you, there is no reason to replace it. As for the gaps in your sheet rock why not install skirt boards, here is a link that will show you the easiest way to do that.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/stair...te-easy-42845/

I am not aware that they make spiral trim nails but it has been a while since I was in business, I used 10d or 12d finish nails. Be sure to glue everywhere wood touches wood.

Oh, and nail the riser to the back of the tread after applying glue. Don't gob on the glue as it will ooze out and will mess up your treads, glue spots don't take stain well.

Jackofall1 12-29-2011 02:01 PM

Heres a thought, if you don't remove the plywood and mount the treads on the plywood, the first step will be +1" (tread thickness) and the top step will be -1" to the landing, now that would definately be a code violation.

Mark


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