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roger wilco 01-15-2013 02:29 PM

Remove existing hardwood planks to replace with tread
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi,

I have an upstairs balcony whose floor has already been laid. The hardwood is parallel to and against the edge of the supporting wall. Previously there were wood balusters attached to shoe rail tacked onto the floor, and the edge of the floor over the wall was hidden by baseboard. (Hopefully the photos below help make sense of all this.)

I'm putting in iron balusters and what I'd like to have in the end is a stained landing tread underneath them, flush with the floor. This would mean cutting out existing flooring — three plank's width — to lay the tread in.

Is this possible?

Thanks for any advice.

chitownken 01-15-2013 09:56 PM

Looks like you can pry it up. Just be really careful with the third row so that you don't crack the row that is going to stay when you pry it out The tongue goes into the groove in the fourth row and you can easily crack it.

Awoodfloorguy 01-16-2013 03:28 PM

I am assuming you want to add a stair nosing around the perimeter? If so, I would tack something to the floor to use as a guide and cut out the flooring with a circular saw. Then take a router and route a groove into the flooring, then take a piece of spline add it to the groove. This will lock the new nosing into the floors. Then glue and nail in the new nosing. Looks like you will probably need a molding under the nosing as well to hide the drywall. So I would account for this when figuring out where the nosing will sit to be sure you leave enough overhang. Hope this makes sense.

roger wilco 01-16-2013 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Awoodfloorguy (Post 1095077)
If so, I would tack something to the floor to use as a guide and cut out the flooring with a circular saw. Then take a router and route a groove into the flooring, then take a piece of spline add it to the groove. This will lock the new nosing into the floors. Then glue and nail in the new nosing.

This was my original plan which I was first talked out of…thinking it'd be too tricky to cut a good enough line across and it'd leave too little of a plank left over to butt against the new tread.

Now I'm thinking I could pry up the first three planks (1.5") and use a 5.5" landing tread. I'd have to rip the tread to get a 4.5" floor width which would leave an inch overhang.

I don't think this would be too difficult but my lumber guy is trying to talk me out of it. :)

Awoodfloorguy 01-16-2013 11:04 PM

On the ones that run parallel if this does in fact fall in like that, you could just remove the boards. On the other ends, you would need probably need to cut it. But at least these are the shorter cuts.

chitownken 01-17-2013 07:19 PM

You can get 8 foot aluminum straight edges and use double stick tape to hold it down to the floor to use as a saw guide if you have to cut the floor. Biggest concern will be hitting the fasteners when you cut.

roger wilco 01-20-2013 11:33 PM

Did the cut a few days ago, fitting the tread now.

The parallel cut was super-easy — just pried up the first three planks. The tread I'm using isn't grooved so I was planning on chiseling the tongue off of the boards (i.e., I wasn't too careful to maintain the tongue), but it turns out keeping the tongue intact was simple with a little patience.

The perpendicular cut on the short end was a pain. The circular saw didn't have room to cut the entire length so I tacked a straight-edge to do as much as I could, ripped as much as possible parallel, and used a chisel for the rest. (I'm sure there's a better tool for the job but I don't own it.) Came out pretty nice, although I need to square the cut a tad to get the tread super-flush. Not sure how I'm going to do this yet. (sand?)

Thanks for the tips.


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