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Old 03-14-2012, 08:31 PM   #16
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refinishing reclaimed maple flooring


And use a drum sander to easily take off the finishing, and you have pretty much brand new flooring!

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Old 03-15-2012, 12:18 PM   #17
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refinishing reclaimed maple flooring


So, I pulled the nails from the 8x2 foot section that I brought home. Ugh, that was NOT fun, and it took about two hours to do... so pulling all the nails is now absolutely out! lol

Funny story, I called the school to see if I could find out the age of the floor, and the woman I spoke to also took large sections of the floor home. Her son got some and put it down as the floor in his barn! The building was built in the 70's, though I'm confused on that since the brand on it - Yawkey Bissell - is a company that was sold in the early sixty's. ( http://www.maplefloor.org/halloffame/gamble.html ) She said that a lot of people in the area have pieces of that floor!!
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:23 AM   #18
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Ok, flooring has been relocated to our house. What an adventure that was!

Got a trailer hitch put on our Highlander and rented a U-Haul trailer. Ended up with an open one because the weather was beautiful. That was a HUGE help because if we had ended up with a closed one it would have been a nightmare to load.

We got there and one of the people helping showed up in flip-flops My food got caught between two full sheets of flooring, and I was in real danger of breaking my leg, escaped from that one though.

We ended up with 31 sheets, not the original 23 that we thought. But 12 of them had been cut from the sub-boards, and then attached with two boards and six screws.... which meant that the tongue and groove was the only thing holding the boards on. They kept falling apart in a spectacular fashion! CRASH!!!

So, we get to my house and get stuck in the middle of my yard. Oh... crap... So we used the sheets to make a path The exploded boards ended up in the shed, the full sheets in the basement.

Now, on to the cleanup. I've done some experimenting, and it looks like denatured alcohol or liquid stripper are going to be the easiest way to clean things up. Dunk the boards, let them soak, scrape off the crud. The longer they soak, the easier they are to scrape, and it appears we can reuse it for a while.

Now the questions: if we leave the crud in the liquid between batches will it lower the effectiveness over time? Should we strain after every batch, after every few batches, or just not bother until there is a lot of it in there?

If they sit overnight in it will the boards warp or become damaged in any way?

I did figure out a very very easy way to process all the boards, but that would entail getting one of these: http://www.woodmastertools.com/3_side_molding_system and that's just a "little" out of my budget... is it possible to rent one anywhere that anyone knows of?

We're going to need a good amount of stripper - what's the best source for 5 gallon pails? Any recommendations on brand? We want strong, and we want liquid, not paste or semi-paste.

Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:49 AM   #19
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Some pictures
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:20 AM   #20
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Now, on to the cleanup. I've done some experimenting, and it looks like denatured alcohol or liquid stripper are going to be the easiest way to clean things up. Dunk the boards, let them soak, scrape off the crud. The longer they soak, the easier they are to scrape, and it appears we can reuse it for a while.

Now the questions: if we leave the crud in the liquid between batches will it lower the effectiveness over time? Should we strain after every batch, after every few batches, or just not bother until there is a lot of it in there?

If they sit overnight in it will the boards warp or become damaged in any way?
I'd almost guarantee it. If it were me, I'd use a jelly type like Strypeeze, and reuse it as many times as it allows. Use 6" putty knife to scrape and flip sections over to the next area to strip, then off to the garbage. Or get a large sander and a few different grits. Or a planer with a LOT of fresh blades, because the finish will dull them super fast.
You have quite the project there!

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Old 05-16-2012, 02:35 AM   #21
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It is a lot of work pulling the nails sorting and then very aggressive sanding.But if you are up for it, it can be made to look very nice again.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:54 PM   #22
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I am running into the same ordeal with about 1500sqft of reclaimed maple flooring as well. mine was not nailed at all but insteand clipped. I too am looking for a way to refinish the wood. I do not want the paing on it. not sure if it would be better to plane each board down or just install them and then sand them down
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:49 PM   #23
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Install first--then sand--there will be some uneven boards--so sanding in place is the best way
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:41 PM   #24
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Damn I would like to buy your old wide plank boards.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:54 PM   #25
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Damn I would like to buy your old wide plank boards.
And I'd sell them to you in a heart beat. It kills me to cover them, but there is no saving them. They didn't look like that when we moved in - they weren't perfect, but they weren't trashed either. All of that damage is from our dogs, and all three of them are under 55 pounds, it's not like we have Great Danes!

I would be just as happy to pull them out and put down plywood subfloor, so if anyone really wants them get in touch with me. Yes, I'm serious. There's about 600 square feet give or take, though if you include the kitchen it's probably closer to 900.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:57 PM   #26
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Install first--then sand--there will be some uneven boards--so sanding in place is the best way
Well, it's clean, then install, then sand. The cleaning step has to be done because the boards won't go back together with all the crud on them.

Oh, and it turns out that the alcohol doesn't warp the boards. I did a few tests on some long pieces. Three days in the alcohol and then scraped and dried, no warping. So that's good anyway.
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:04 PM   #27
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How did your floor come out?
I purchased 520 sq ft and not sure if I should do this myself or hire it out.
I think I've already made a mistake by dry fitting it as a floating floor over roofing tar paper over plywood subfloor over crawlspace. It is fit very tightly. I used a mallet to force the pieces in as tightly as I could. Now, most have said the floor MUST have an expansion joint on the ends or it will buckle. Is that true?
My house isn't square and the floors aren't level but i'd LIKE to continue to float it but afraid they would get squeaky if not nailed. One of the contractors that is bidding said he wouldn't take up the 5' x 12' section I've layed but would put the expansion joints on the rest of the job. Any thoughts anyone?
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:25 AM   #28
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The large sections the floor was removed in could be used to save you loads of labor installing 11/2" boards.

I would cut the nails flush on the bottom with a metal cutting blade attached to a side grinder.

For removing the substances on the sides, you could use tongue & groove router bits like these on Amazon...http://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-036-Adjustable-Tongue-Groove/dp/B00006XMTT to clean and dress up the tongues & grooves. Just make sure the nails are removed.

For installing, you could rent a power assisted hardwood nailer or attach with finish nails, making sure the nails are set below the surface with a nail set.

For refinishing the wood surface, you could use the Diamabrush hardwood prep tool like these...http://www.signature-concrete-stain....od-floors.html to prepare(remove the varnish down to clean wood)mounted on a low speed floor buffer.

See the YouTube video of this process here...http://www.signature-concrete-stain....od-floors.html

The hardwood prep tool will not remove the coating all the way to the wall. You will need to install a 1/2" base along with a 3/4 " shoe mold. If the prep tool exposes any nail heads, just countersink the nail head below the surface and fill with the appropriate filler and sand.

Once the wood surface is ready you can apply a stain of your choice, or just apply a clear polyurethane top coat.

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