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Old 03-31-2009, 08:03 AM   #16
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Radiant floor heat


That is basically how we did it, except that we did not need any SLC since the floor was close enough to flat to use modified thinset only on top of the wire. As for attaching the wire, the manual suggested use of hot melt glue, but that did not work too well. We found that staples worked fine, just make sure you staple on the mesh between the wires, not directly over the wires. You don't want to damage those wires, once they are cemented in place they are a real pain to fix.

The staples are only there to hold the mesh in place until the thinset hardens. You could probably do the whole job without any attachment, but the mesh might move around during trowelling of the thinset. Speaking of trowelling, I suggest using a plastic trowel with 1/8 inch grooves, you could nick a wire with a sharp edged steel trowel.

The Ditramat was probably overkill, but I liked the idea of a separation layer between the tile and the mortar. I have seen a lot of tile failures, and Ditramat claims to essentially prevent failure due to differential movement between the tile and the subfloor. It does add about $1.50 per square foot to the project, but long term peace of mind is worth it IMO.

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Old 03-31-2009, 12:04 PM   #17
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Sounds good, thanks to everyone for there advise.

So I'm correct that the Modified goes under the Ditra and Un-Modified on top, under the tile? Just want to be sure I'm straight on that.

Thanks
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:12 AM   #18
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Radiant floor heat


Floor turned out great! Thanks to everyone for advice. Now check out my post on "Granite vanity top".

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