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Old 02-26-2012, 01:53 PM   #1
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Question on Bathtub surround and floor Tile Install


Hi I have a "Whirpool" type tub that I want to retile. I began removing tiles from the base and ended up damaging the drywall it had behind it so I was planning on simply relacing it with Hardee Board. My questions are, can I install the Cement board directly on the bathtub frame (basically using it as drywall). Second, I am also removing the tile floor and noticed there is no vapor barrier under the floor or behind the bathtub base.BTW the bathtub base is only on the front part of the bathtub and not on an actual wall. Do I need to add one? I was planning on just putting new cement board onto the subfloor. Thanks guys

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Old 02-26-2012, 01:57 PM   #2
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Question on Bathtub surround and floor Tile Install


A picture sure would be helpful.

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Old 02-26-2012, 02:05 PM   #3
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Question on Bathtub surround and floor Tile Install


We need pictures-----No vapor barrier is used under the floor tile--backerboard set into thinset and then screwed or nailed--

I waterproof the face of the wall and tub surround--Redguard or Hydroban--so no vapor barrier needed there--
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:57 PM   #4
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:58 PM   #5
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Question on Bathtub surround and floor Tile Install


Peal that and let's see what the frame looks like---

The floor needs 1/4" Durrock set in thinset and nailed or screwed00the tub deck top
needs 1/4" also---face needs 1/2"--I don't like open framed decks--plywood is preferred--
But you can make open framing work of there are enough studs---

I strongly suggest waterproofing the deck and up the walls 6"--Redguard or Hydroban would be my choice.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:04 PM   #6
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I looked back there with a light and there looks like 4-5 studs....I was planning on putting 3/8 Hardee on the Bath face and doing exactly what you said for the floor....Heres another question....do I have to scrape up ALL the old thinset on the floor down to the bare wood??? Seems like a big PITA to do it that way
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:07 PM   #7
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Question on Bathtub surround and floor Tile Install


Your going to have to redo the hole front of the tub, that's Sheetrock there now and that's a no no. So backer board it and backerboard or ditra the floor.

I do wonder if it was all Sheetrock that was used around the tub.

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Old 02-26-2012, 06:12 PM   #8
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Use 1/2" on the walls not 3/8. Less change of flexing.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike
Peal that and let's see what the frame looks like---

The floor needs 1/4" Durrock set in thinset and nailed or screwed.
I think the 1/4" durock will give to much flex
I would use backer board hardibacker w/ screws.

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Old 02-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #10
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Question on Bathtub surround and floor Tile Install


Floor--scrape off as much old thinset as possible---then back trowel fresh thinset to foll any voids
1/4"x 3/8" trowel --add a nice combed layer of thinset--set your Durrock (or Harde backer)--nail or screw--

check for flatness---use a self leveling compound if the floor has a roll to it--then tile--
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:22 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by JetSwet View Post
I think the 1/4" durock will give to much flex
I would use backer board hardibacker.

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1/4" is plenty--and flex in the board is good--here's why---

The one and only purpose for the backer board is to provide an ideal bonding surface for the tile and thinset--

It adds no strength to the floor system what so ever--

The flexible,floppy nature of the 1/4" Durrock or Wonder Board allows the backer to follow the contours of the woods floor beneath--with any voids filled by the bed of thinset.

One draw back to the Hardi board is its stiff,springy nature--
It is possible, indeed likely, that it will bridge a low spot--
Leaving a hollow spot underneath that can cause tile breakage when stepped on--

I've see this first hand when diagnosing floor failures--I use Durrock and Wonder Board for floors myself--never Hardi--and that is why---Mike--
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:33 PM   #12
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Question on Bathtub surround and floor Tile Install


Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike

1/4" is plenty--and flex in the board is good--here's why---

The one and only purpose for the backer board is to provide an ideal bonding surface for the tile and thinset--

It adds no strength to the floor system what so ever--

The flexible,floppy nature of the 1/4" Durrock or Wonder Board allows the backer to follow the contours of the woods floor beneath--with any voids filled by the bed of thinset.

One draw back to the Hardi board is its stiff,springy nature--
It is possible, indeed likely, that it will bridge a low spot--
Leaving a hollow spot underneath that can cause tile breakage when stepped on--

I've see this first hand when diagnosing floor failures--I use Durrock and Wonder Board for floors myself--never Hardi--and that is why---Mike--
I here what your saying to me it just seems that since durock is so flexible compared to hardy back board even though both has nothing to do with support sorry just my OCD lol

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Old 02-26-2012, 07:20 PM   #13
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Sounds good....So should I add Cement Board to the wall as well??
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:26 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by veesmack323
Sounds good....So should I add Cement Board to the wall as well??
Yes 1/2 for walls 1/4" for floor.

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Old 02-27-2012, 02:54 PM   #15
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I meant the tile thats actually installed on the wall.....Could I just put it on the drywall?

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