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Old 01-11-2012, 06:49 PM   #46
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Porcelain tile kitchen floor - Getting started


Is that trowel ok for 12x12 porcelain on hardibacker w/ 1/4" spacers? Should I get a smaller notched trowel for under the Hardiboard? Or just use this one with a smaller angle?

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Old 01-11-2012, 09:50 PM   #47
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The 1/4x3/8x1/4 is my standard trowel for basic tiles of that size range. You need a different trowel for the Hardie as mentioned.

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Old 01-12-2012, 09:53 AM   #48
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When applying thinset under the Hardibacker...is it important to fill all of the gaps between the plywood sheets?
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:31 PM   #49
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You'll find that info on the bag of thin set you've chosen. I believe most want you to fill the seams. Some tillers think the seams should be kept open, so they apply tape or caulk the gaps. I don't recall any manufacturer of mortars saying that though.

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Old 01-13-2012, 10:59 AM   #50
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Porcelain tile kitchen floor - Getting started


OK, I'm close to the point of no return. I keep reading threads that say Ultraflex 1 is "entry level" or "ok". I'm in my "forever house" and not too worried about a few bucks. Should I be using something better? (Porcelain on hardibacker, deflection good)
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:02 PM   #51
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That was probably me referring it as entry-level. It meets minimum specs and may even exceed minimum specs, not sure. But it's a cheap modified mortar, I would use something better to set the tiles. They make Ultraflex 2 and 3.

Be sure to work efficiently once you spread the mortar on the Hardie as it is very thirsty. You should moisten the board just before you trowel mortar.

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Old 01-15-2012, 10:38 AM   #52
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Cool. So I'll swap the "2" for the "1". On that note...do you guys prefer Laticrete over Mapei Keraset? Blue Big Box is really my only source.
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Old 01-15-2012, 12:00 PM   #53
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Quote:
do you guys prefer Laticrete over Mapei Keraset
Which Laticrete? Mapei's Keraset is a cheapo UN-modified, it is not the right one to use unless you mix it with the additive.

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Old 01-15-2012, 01:39 PM   #54
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OK, so now I'm confusing myself. In my last post, I meant to ask about grout, not thinset. I'm going to do the Ultraflex 2 for thinset. For grout Big Blue Box store only has Keracolor (Mapei)...I have read some bad threads about this one...bad lots, inconsistant color, etc. I thought my Blue Big Box had Laticrete grout, but just called them and they do not. Might have to take a drive to an actual tile store (imagine that).
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:46 PM   #55
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It sounds like Mapei Ultracolor is good stuff...but the "fast-setting" scares the hell out of me. (And I don't know where to get it.)
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:45 PM   #56
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Laying tile in stove and dishwasher "coves". I have wires coming up through the floor. I tried to cut a hole with a diamond hole saw...keep breaking 12x 12 tiles! The holes are about two inches from the wall. Can I just leave this last bit untiled? I also have a safety cleat for the stove that needs to be put back - I couldn't imagine screwing this back into the tile. Any tricks here? I'm open to creativity. Thanks. Everything else has gone well so far (other than everything tking about three times as long as I thought).
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:54 AM   #57
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Finished grouting last night...this has taken a lot longer than I planned, but everything has gone well so far.

A couple more questions:

1. I keep reading conflicting opinions on this one...do I rest the baseboard on the tile or leave a gap? (I don't plan on using quarter round and floor is very level). I read that if it is resting on the tile it will wick water from mopping/spills, etc.)

2. I noticed a spot where I didn't fill the grout line all the way to the top of the tile (or I wiped it out)...can I come back a day later and add a "bit" of grout?

3. I have a couple of spots where thinset from hardiboard and thinset from tile has oozed into my wall gap. Should I "dremel" this out - or not worry about it? I think I'm going to caulk the perimeter of the room.

4. My plan forward is to allow foot traffic tonight (24 hours after grouting), dishwasher, island cart, table and stove in tomorrow (48 hours), fridge on Tuesday (72 hours), seal grout in two weeks. Does this sound reasonable?

Thanks guys for all your help. I hope to upload some pics soon.
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:30 PM   #58
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Quote:
1. I keep reading conflicting opinions on this one...do I rest the baseboard on the tile or leave a gap? (I don't plan on using quarter round and floor is very level). I read that if it is resting on the tile it will wick water from mopping/spills, etc.)
Rest it on the floor then caulk the bottom. Personally I like shoe molding with everything except carpeting. But you can skip it if you like.

Quote:
2. I noticed a spot where I didn't fill the grout line all the way to the top of the tile (or I wiped it out)...can I come back a day later and add a "bit" of grout?
Yes of course touch it up as needed. You may need to let it set longer between wipes since it's likely that you won't need to wipe as much as when you grouted the floor which means the color will turn out different since you're not wiping as much pigment out.

Quote:
3. I have a couple of spots where thinset from hardiboard and thinset from tile has oozed into my wall gap. Should I "dremel" this out - or not worry about it? I think I'm going to caulk the perimeter of the room.
Don't worry about a few spots.

Quote:
4. My plan forward is to allow foot traffic tonight (24 hours after grouting), dishwasher, island cart, table and stove in tomorrow (48 hours), fridge on Tuesday (72 hours), seal grout in two weeks. Does this sound reasonable?
The plan sounds fine if it fits into your schedule. I'm not so sure about waiting 2 weeks to seal the grout though. What sealer do you have? What does it say on the label?

We like pics.

Jaz
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:42 PM   #59
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I bought some "TileLab" sealer a few weeks ago, before doing my research...might be the cheap stuff. Ingredients say: water, copolymer and a bunch of numbers.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:02 PM   #60
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Is it the one in yellow container? Yellow is the cheap one but should still work if you apply a few coats.

Quote:
............Ingredients say: water, copolymer and a bunch of numbers.
Do any of those numbers refer to 48 - 72 hours, by chance? I think that is what your container says.

Jaz

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