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Old 01-01-2012, 09:38 PM   #16
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Porcelain tile kitchen floor - Getting started


When he used it isn't as important as when it was manufactured. Generally Portland products have a shelf-life of around 12 months if un opened and stored off the floor in a conditioned space. How many bags does he have? What brand/type is it?

You need 2 bags for the tiles and less than one bag for the backer.

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Old 01-01-2012, 09:58 PM   #17
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I'll check the dates...it's Ultraflex I (Mapei).
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:09 PM   #18
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OK, Ultraflex 1. It's adequate but not exactly premium stuff. So, he has 3 bags or more?

Wish you hadn't started a new thread about your subfloor. I makes it confusing and people are more likely to not answer since we'd have to read both to know what's going on.

One thread per project keeps all info in one place. I recommend you copy and paste the new question here.

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Old 01-01-2012, 10:32 PM   #19
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Thanks Jaz. Yes, he has three 50lb. bags.

Other questions...Why is Hardiboard not ok for a kitchen? Should 1/4" ply come up...or can I lay .5" ply on top of it? I'm not worried about height...I want the tile floor to last.

Also, when I lay new plywood...do I need T&G or is normal non T&G ok with a 1/8" gap?

I'll keep it in one thread next time.
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:46 PM   #20
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Hardie is perfectly fine for a kitchen. The guy at your other thread gave you bad advice. He doesn't even like tiles in a kitchen.

He did give you a clue though when he claims to be "Marginally Qualified", His words. Maybe he's a mason?

!/4" underlayment should be taken to the curb. A single 3/4" subfloor is good. The thicker the better though. You can add 1/2" underlayment grade ply if you like. No cheap CDX, C/C or better, B/C is easy to find. Fasten into subfloor only, 1/8" between sheets, 1/4" or more at perimeter.

Quote:
Looks like I am just short of the recommended 1.25" subfloor for porcelain tile.
There is no such requirement.

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Old 01-01-2012, 11:15 PM   #21
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Does the 3/4" ply need to be T&G? Am I using 1.25" deck screws for laying plywood? I purchased 1.25" hardiboard screws, are they ok with 3/4 ply and 3/4 OSB?

Again - this sight is great...I appreciate your time and patience. I do a lot of DIY to save money, but I love learning as well.
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:26 PM   #22
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I guess you're going with 3/4" underlayment now instead of 1/2". No t&g. Only subfloor grade comes in t&g.

So, you're gonna sister the joists?

You need 1 1/2"-1 5/8" or 1 3/4" flooring screws for 3/4" over 3/4".

The Hardie screws are perfect for your Hardie.

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Old 01-01-2012, 11:33 PM   #23
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Yeah, I think I'm leaning toward 3/4" plywood. I wanna do this right. And this kitchen is a little below the adjoining room with hardwood. I know the plywood doesn't affect the deflection, but I think it will just feel more solid.

Do you think sistering joists is a good idea? It can't do any harm. Not too expensive compare to the entire project.
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:48 PM   #24
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Actually...................

There are two deflection ratings to think about. The most common spoken about is the deflection along the joists. The 'standard' code and the basic requirement for ceramic tiles is L360 or less deflection. But it's kinda arbitrary and not easy to measure in real life. Plus the 'industry' will in the future not refer to that standard for tile work.

But, the deflection between the joists is much more critical and is the cause of more failures than too much joist deflection. So, although you are overdoing it with another 3/4", it is not a waste.

Go ahead sister and add the ply, you sound like you don't mind the extra work and a few hundred bucks will be well spent.

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Old 01-02-2012, 12:02 AM   #25
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Good to hear. I think I got it from watching (and reading) Mike Holmes. I'd rather take the extra time and money the first time around - and hope it's the only time around instead of rushing to get it done.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:36 PM   #26
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1. Do they make screws just for "flooring"? I have seen deck screws (galvanized), drywall screws, hardiboard screws, etc. But not "flooring" screws. What should I be looking for? This is to install the 3/4" BC plywood over 3/4" OSB.

2. Do you lay the full 4'x8' plywood or do you buy smaller boards? I'm assuming they're laid staggered so seams don't line up.
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:29 PM   #27
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1. Use the deck screws.

2. Yes full sheets, then cut as needed of course. Offset the seams both ways.

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Old 01-03-2012, 09:17 AM   #28
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What is the best way to keep a hopscotch pattern straight? We'll be using 12x12 and 6x6. Striking perpendicular lines across floor doesn't really help.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:55 AM   #29
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Quote:
What is the best way to keep a hopscotch pattern straight? We'll be using 12x12 and 6x6. Striking perpendicular lines across floor doesn't really help.
Of course it does.
Just like I tried to illustrate in the other thread you have pulled up from two years ago. Refer to that information.

Starting a "hopscotch" pattern...
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:46 PM   #30
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You suggested verifying over and over as you lay. I'm not sure I understand what I am verifying. There are not really any "rows" to measure to the struck line. Each new tile laid will be on it's own new vertical line.

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