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Old 09-18-2009, 11:02 AM   #1
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planning on floating engineered floor tongue and groove


Ok I have a condo with a concrete subfloor. After looking around I have decided on an engineered wood floor with a tongue & groove system(not click lock).

I plan on floating the floor and glueing in the grooves. The planks are 5" wide and 1/2 thick, 2.5mm wear layer. I will either get maple or oak wood, the birch was tempting with its price but I am worried that it is too soft of a species.

Plan of attack:
1. remove baseboard moldings.
2. remove carpet.
3. Moisture Check
4. clean concrete surface, check for level
5. start in walk in hallway as it is the longest wall
6. Lay Floormuffler underlayment. leave 1 inch extra at the walls.
7. snap line(info on how to properly snap straight line would be great)
8. lay first row dry(leaving 1/4 gap from wall), then stair case subsequent pieces for a tight strong fit.
9. Once confirmed straight, pull pieces out and begin gluring in the grooves.
10. Every 2-4 rows, use painters tape to keep the pieces from moving.(heard people say that a clamp should be used but never seen it in any diy videos)
11. Keep going from there.

Is there anything that I missed? Anything that I should pay special attention too??

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance


Last edited by imompero; 09-21-2009 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:15 PM   #2
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planning on floating engineered floor tongue and groove


bump....anyone? i have to of missed something for sure.

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Old 09-20-2009, 08:30 AM   #3
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planning on floating engineered floor tongue and groove


You might want to do a moisture check. I am not sure if it applies to a floating install, but I know moisture can be a big problem with some wood floors.
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:39 PM   #4
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planning on floating engineered floor tongue and groove


After you remove carpet, moldings, and level the floor, you should first install a vapor barrier, 10 mil minimum.
Then lay two layers of 1/2" plywood over the vapor barrier, top layer perpendicular to the bottom layer. Glue and nail/screw the layers together. That will give you a floating subfloor with no moisture problems to worry about. Without a vapor barrier, there is a good possibility of damaging the floor. Then you can staple the flooring to the subfloor.
It's more work, more expense, and a much better floor overall.
Just my opinion, fwiw
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:14 AM   #5
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planning on floating engineered floor tongue and groove


thanks for the responses, I will do a moisture check before I lay anything down. Also I plan to lay the underlayment as a vapor barrier. I will be laying down the floormuffler brand, its a 3 in 1 underlayment. I have read reviews on it and looks like its a good product.
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Old 09-25-2009, 07:13 PM   #6
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planning on floating engineered floor tongue and groove


press board. Are these low quality osb boards? Can I still use them as a subfloor? I am using the suggestions and directions you guys are already talking about. Oh, can I use a manual nailer, how hard will it be?
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Old 09-25-2009, 08:36 PM   #7
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planning on floating engineered floor tongue and groove


Quote:
Originally Posted by imompero View Post
thanks for the responses, I will do a moisture check before I lay anything down. Also I plan to lay the underlayment as a vapor barrier. I will be laying down the floormuffler brand, its a 3 in 1 underlayment. I have read reviews on it and looks like its a good product.
I would lay plastic vapor barrier under this floormuffler stuff. I have yet to see any product sold with the flooring companies that is fool proof. I use 8 mil poly under all engineered floating floors. Then the normal pad. You're floor is no different than a lam floor.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:37 AM   #8
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planning on floating engineered floor tongue and groove


Thanks, I have decided to go with a vapor barrier under the floor muffler, it was only another 75$ total for the amount of room I am doing. I have another question for you guys, what direction do you think would be best to run the planks.

I will be installing the flooring in the hallway when you first enter, dining room, living room, small hallway to guest bath, and bedroom #2. There is natural light coming from the deck


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