Plank flooring for new construction

DidjaDewit

About to build new in middle Tennessee. Top of hill, good drainage, no excessive moisture, crawl-space w/ Advantek sub-floor. Want to use wide plank wood (6-12"), prepared tongue and groove by a local sawmill, finished on site.

Want low-sheen rustic look. I'll be happy when it wears and ages (within reason). We have a 70-lb black Lab and we're not good about keeping her toenails trimmed!

I've been cautioned against using wood at all due to the dog and warned that the wide boards will "cup". Does anyone have experience living with this type of floor? What's my best bet for wood type and finish? If I have the wood quarter-sawn will that reduce cupping? Our budget is moderate. Thank you.

Teetorbilt

True quarter sawn should not move around very much but this pretty much limits you to 3 planks per log in wide stock, pretty expensive. Flat sawn is the most notorious for cupping.
I'm hoping that your mill has experience in this, you don't want to lay a green floor. The slabs should be cut and ricked until the moisture content is down to about 20%, basically think about one year per inch of thickness. The ends should be sealed with wax to prevent splitting. You can now close mill.
I'm betting that you thought that this was going to happen fast, done right, it's not. Get back when the wood is seasoned, also allow for about 50% loss. Some planks will split and you will have loss on install.

Jim Decker

Quarter sawn wood will expand and contract 50% less than flat sawn a little more expensive as cutting quarter sawn has more waste to it.
NWFA Guidelines state 5" or wider nailing schedule to be within 1" to 3" each end of boards and 6" to 8" in between. Additionally they say for more holding power to put a serpentine 1/2" thick of construction glue, liquid nail or gorilla glue on the side opposite the nailed end. You want to make sure the installer has a moisture meter and confirms that the subfloor does not exceed 12% content and the hardwood must be within 2% of the hardwood OR wait until it is otherwise it is not properly acclimated and could cause abnormal gaps or even cupping or buckling. You might go to www.nwfa.org and there is a list of certified installers and inspectors I am sure you will find one in your area. Talk to them.

joecaption

Just use engineered wide plank flooring.
Not going to cup and will have far more and harder wearing layers of finish then if it was finished on site.