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-   -   patching a section of hardwood under replaced cabinets (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/patching-section-hardwood-under-replaced-cabinets-172466/)

walkman 02-20-2013 08:17 AM

patching a section of hardwood under replaced cabinets
 
I have removed original built in place kitchen base cabinets. Hardwoods were previously installed up to the cabinets. Some of the flooring will be viewable as the toe kicks are not in the same footprint.

I don't want to try to weave the hardwood so I'm going to cut a straightedge and run a perpendicular edge against the existing hardwood and then fill in.

Is it okay to nail all of this with a regular 15 gauge angle finish nailer? What size nail should I use, and is it necessary to glue the flooring? Do I need to use tar paper?

joecaption 02-20-2013 08:32 AM

Got a picture.
How much is exposed?

kaschmid3 02-20-2013 10:22 PM

Shoe molding???

oh'mike 02-21-2013 05:13 AM

If you choose to add that board--the 15 guage nailer will be fine---also for good measure ,glue it to the subfloor---not tar paper under that board---so you can glue it to the floor---

Good luck with the cut----I have done that with a router and a straight edge----using double faced foam tape to hold the straight edge----a multi-tool is handy for the corners---

A Skill Saw could also be used---

walkman 02-21-2013 08:31 AM

Unfortunately, I"m not sure exactly how much of the floor will be exposed with the new cabinets so I'm going to extend the hardwood enough to be safe.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/twalkman/floor.jpg

walkman 03-06-2013 11:22 AM

I ended up squaring the edges of existing flooring using a track saw. I replaced the subfloor plywood using glue and screws. I took the easy way out and laid new hardwood perpendicular to existing hardwood to avoid all the weaving -- this just commits me to placing cabinets in the same place as before so the patch job will be hidden. I also patched the area at the top right of the photo in the regular direction of the flooring.

I glued the first row of hardwood on each edge and used tar paper on the rest of the subfloor to slow any moisture transmission. The 15 guage nailgun was easy to use and got the boards tight. I ripped the last board to fit in the middle of the patch.

I bought a box of natural red oak at HD that matched the color in their display -- but I was shocked at how discolored many of the boards were. I would have thrown out 1/3rd of the box if I was trying to use it in a visible part of the flooring.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...man/floor2.jpg


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