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Old 04-09-2009, 04:21 PM   #16
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particle board question???


Joists, what do I need to look for? 16" OC?
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:14 PM   #17
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Joists, what do I need to look for? 16" OC?
Size, spacing, and span
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:10 PM   #18
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I'm out of town, I'll post more info this weekend, Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2009, 02:15 PM   #19
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OK, I just crawled out from under the house. The hardest part was getting in and out of the little access openings, I'm 6'3" @ 250. The previous owner just put in a moisture barrier, so it is dry and fairly clean down there. Keep in mind this house is approximately 2600’. It has a family room on a slab, about 24’ x 24’, the main house is built up 2-3 feet, and then there is a finished room above the (family room on the slab), and an attic. The main floor, is supported by a 6x6 structure on cinder blocks. The 6x6’s are situated to support the joist’s with about 8’ spacing. The area next to the slab (10' X 24') has about 10 feet span, everywhere else has a 8' span. The joist'S are resting on the 6x6 structure. The joists are 2x8, 16 O/C.

It all looks very sturdy to me, but what do I know, I’m an airplane mechanic…
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Old 04-11-2009, 02:27 PM   #20
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particle board question???


2 X 8 are small, but at least the span is also small. Review this article for more on sub-floor issues.
NielsenWoeste.pdf
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:37 AM   #21
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OK, thanks for the report.

I guess I'll crawl back under the house and look for any damage or sagging joists specificlly. In addition to modifications to any joist's that would compromise structural integrity, affecting load capacity.

If I find nothing, what next?

Is 6 x 6 supporting 2 x 8 joists on a 16 OC spacing strong enough to span 10' with ceramic tile on top? The last thing I want is to overload the joist's and create other problems?

Is this structure OK for 5/8 hardwood floors?

Is this structure OK for ceramic tile?
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Old 04-12-2009, 11:24 PM   #22
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1. How far apart are the supports for the 6x6's?

2. Measure the span of the 2x8's under the tile area.

30 years ago, we installed particle board, not osb.

An undercut saw is for undercutting door jambs. A toe-kick saw is rented at box stores, cuts up to 3/4" deep under the cabinet toe kicks.

2x8 at 16"o.c. doug/fir span 12'8" (50# load per square foot) Measure your spans.

Do not use CDX as underlayment for tile, because of the air pockets in it. It is not rated for floors.

Be safe, GBAR
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:34 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by GBAR in WA View Post

1. How far apart are the supports for the 6x6's?

2. Measure the span of the 2x8's under the tile area.

30 years ago, we installed particle board, not osb.

An undercut saw is for undercutting door jambs. A toe-kick saw is rented at box stores, cuts up to 3/4" deep under the cabinet toe kicks.

2x8 at 16"o.c. doug/fir span 12'8" (50# load per square foot) Measure your spans.

Do not use CDX as underlayment for tile, because of the air pockets in it.

It is not rated for floors.

Be safe, GBAR
1. The cinder blocks are spaced 5' apart, under the 6x6 structure, except one area that is a 24' long cider block wall.

2. The area I want to put the tile on has the solid wall on one side for support and the other side has the cinder blocks spaced 5'. The joists are spanning less than 10 feet in this area, probably closer to 9'.

3. What is CDX underlayment?

4. What "lbs per square feet" rating do I need to install ceramic tile?

5. What "lbs per square feet" rating do I need for 5/8" hardwood floors?

What part of WA you in?

I did four years at Air Sta Port Angeles, 1986-1990, it was a great place!

Thanks!

Last edited by Axhammer; 04-13-2009 at 06:34 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:46 PM   #24
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The support sounds sturdy to me. I understand you want 1-1/8" - 1-1/4" plywood layers to make it stiff enough for tile, plus cbu.
Short of jumping on the floor, or using a deflection gauge, does anyone have helpfull suggestions?
Google "john bridge floor deflection"
Would any tile installers chime in, please?

CDX is a grade for plywood, C grade on one face, D on the other, and X for exterior glue holding it together. On the D grade, air pockets are allowed, from knotholes in the skin when it is peeled off the log blank by the lathe. They are not filled in on the D side or the middle, so "air pockets". When you install the cbu with thinset, you want solid bearing allover. This ply is rated for walls and roofs, not floors. Buy a CCX, or BCX plywood.

I'm SE of where you stationed, below Seattle. Be safe, GBR
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Old 01-01-2010, 10:35 AM   #25
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particle board question???


I finished my flooring project this week, man I'm glad thats over...

I worked on it every weekend for the last couple months or so, my real job is a 40 hour a week deal, I havent had a weekend off since the ET finals @ Rockingham in October...

I put in about 1000' of .75 hardwood oak and about 300' of porcelin tile...

The hardest part was removing the particle board first...

I bought a "flooring book" at Lowe's that helped out a lot and of course the folks here that helped...

Thanks to everyone who replied, and Happy 2010!!!

I'll post some pics later
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:07 AM   #26
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particle board question???


I do flooring for a living. It's called a toe kick saw. The flooring guy should have known this lol.
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:35 PM   #27
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I used a $39 multi tool from Harbor Freight to cut around the cabinets and to trim the door jambs, probably not the best way but it worked out OK...
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:08 PM   #28
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The Kitchen...
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