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-   -   Options For Replacing Squeaky Subfloor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/options-replacing-squeaky-subfloor-184407/)

thetalkingmule 07-28-2013 03:41 PM

Options For Replacing Squeaky Subfloor
 
Bought a brand new 14ft wide rowhouse 5.5 years ago and the floor in the master bedroom creaks so bad that a 10lb dog walking across it makes annoying creaks downstairs in the livingroom. This is driving me so nuts that I'm going to pull up the subfloor and redo the whole room. I need new carpet anyway so now's the time.

I've already tried the screw through the carpet method and then even pulled up all the carpet and drove a box of 3" screws through the plywood into most joists. No difference at all. You can feel a dip in the middle of the room so I think the wood they used for the joists in 2006 was just green/wet and installed crown down.

I'd love to take the subfloor up and put in 1" of this gypcrete stuff, but that's a big job($$) and I don't think I have the clearance for something like that.

I also saw some joist sistering on This Old House that might work. Basically screw new joists to the existing ones but offset them so that a new, flat nailing surface is created effectively flattening the old joists that have sagged an dipped.

I'm thinking joist sistering and a new properly installed glued and screwed subfloor is the way to go. Sound like the right plan? Also, can I leave the perimeter subfloor in place and just replace the "field" of full plywood slabs? The perimeter seems solid as a rock.

As a side note, I have little 1x strips that run perpendicular to the joists between the bottom of the joists and the drywall ceiling below. I think that would give me the wiggle room necessary to drop in the new joists from above and leave the ceiling below intact. Can I sister 2x10's to the existing 2x12s to get some wiggle room when dropping them into place?

Any help is much appreciated! Thanks! :thumbsup:

joecaption 07-28-2013 04:22 PM

My guess is someone used subflooring that was not tonged and grooved.
May also be just 1/2" with something else over it. No clue what the logic was because it never worked but I've seen it done that way may times.
2 X 12 should have been more then thick enough unless someone spaced then to far apart.
I'd remove all of what's there and pull some strings tight and check to see how out they are.
Also check them with a long level from the outside toward the center of the room.
Add L brackets if there are no joist hangers. You want the larger ones that get attached with short lag bolts.
Sister the bad ones like you suggested with construction adhesive and 3" ring shanked framing nails not screws.
Then use Advantech 3/4 T & G subflooring with construction adhesive on the joist.
No clue what you mean by gyp create unless your talking about tile board, which would never be used a subfloor. Tile board adds no strength to the floor. It's just there to give the tile something to stick to.

thetalkingmule 07-30-2013 08:27 AM

Thanks Joe. I think I'll pull the middle pieces and do the string/level test to see how it goes.

joecaption 07-30-2013 08:53 AM

If you insist on leaving the outside in place at least add block where the two come together.
If the old subflooring goes under the walls it can be cut with a Toe Kick saw right up tight to the walls. Home Depot rents them.

joecaption 07-30-2013 08:53 AM

If you insist on leaving the outside in place at least add blocking where the two come together.
If the old subflooring goes under the walls it can be cut with a Toe Kick saw right up tight to the walls. Home Depot rents them.

thetalkingmule 07-31-2013 04:09 PM

The outside ones seem to be about 1.5' in depth so i don't think it'll make much difference, but I'm definitely going to take every precaution I can. If it seems like it might make the slightest difference, I'll take them up at the wall.


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