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Old 05-26-2013, 03:54 PM   #31
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Old Wood Floor Sinking--URGENT NEED!--


Yeah Mike, I am just kinda concerned here, is not a lot of money in the budget, typical more time then money.
And adding urgent to the header did get me to read it, often I do not bother even looking at a post because of the amount of reply already made. What more could I add?

In the average kitchen remodel we are looking at 6 weeks, add extras and it is longer.
Client is living out of a microwave and take out, doing dishes in a bath tub ... just a fact of life.
I only see the urgent part of this thread as, lets slow down, take a deep breath and look this project over.

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Old 05-26-2013, 09:07 PM   #32
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We got a late start today. As you can imagine, this can get very depressing, and anxiety is at a high.

The kitchen floor is newer then the rest of the house. The rest of the flooring is properly installed (I can see the sleepers through the gap in the threshold). The raise in the flooring can be matched better without the cement board, but the threshold should cover it well, though we may not install it, after what you've said, depending on HD's return policy on cement board. I didn't know it was only for tile. I guess I'm an ******* for believing the HD guy. #neveragain

We decided to concentrate on cleaning it all up, but we keep running into problems. We need to remove the cabinets, without destroying them. It seems that the guy who installed it used some remarkably hard screws, with a small sized Phillips head, smaller then any Phillips we have, and didn't use anything to prevent seizing. After some fussing with different screwdrivers, a stripped screw remover kit, and a burnt out drill bit, I managed to break the head off with my multitool, a crescent wrench, and some parallel pliers. My girlfriend is heading out to get a hole saw, so we can drill around the problem.

Also, a fitting under the sink wore off. We got a proper tarp for the lumber (it's raining on and off 'til Tuesday). We have to move the washer and dryer, to break up the tile installed on the plywood, to rip out the flooring in the laundry room (It's one of those utility closet setups, with the furnace in the corner). Luckily a lot of the caulk around the edges of the cabinets has dried out, and broken up. I also can't wait to start using this .22 Cal, 'cus I could really use a gun right now.
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:09 PM   #33
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Amusing thought; I'm 6'8", and this tyvek suit is XL. If I put the hood up, I can't look down without getting a wedgie, and the zipper is three inches too high for me to pee properly.
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:50 PM   #34
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Does Illinois, Will County, or Crete code require underlayment for wood flooring? I mentioned that the rest of the flooring, the living room at least, has sleepers, but I didn't check for underlayment until just now. I even chipped the concrete in case it was cement board. Doesn't appear to be rotting, though.

The insurance guys inspected the house before the purchase. Doesn't that mean it's their responsibility?
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:06 PM   #35
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The inspectors are a joke, do not waste time thinking about them because no good will come from it.

Main concern is to get it all cleaned up and lets see what is the best approach from there.
Is just odd that someone went through the expense to do what they did, is for a reason, I call it forensic remodel.
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:11 AM   #36
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We just need money to pay for all this. That's why I was asking about the inspector. If I can't get a loan from Veteran's Affairs, or something, we may have to find the one who did this and take him to small claims court.

We're having trouble with the last two screws. We've got all the cabinets loose, but these ones.


These screws are burning drill bits, and ****ing up sawzall blades.



They're set pretty deep, so I can't grab them with pliers. and using the hole saw would destroy the cabinet.


We can't move the cabinets together, 'cus that'd be catastrophic. They're fastened through the frame, on the face side only, and they'll split the frame apart. Even if we do find a way to move them, we're running out of space to put them, 'cus it's still raining.

Just as I typed this I realized we may be able to put another screw in the back of the frame and secure them together, so we can move them as one. I just need to find the space. I'll try that now, but if you guys know how to destroy the same screws Tony Stark uses in his Iron Man suit, that'd be a big help.
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:19 AM   #37
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Also, how does I turn pipe? I tried lithium grease, with no luck. It needs, at least, an inch and a half more clearance to let the cabinet past.


If we don't get an answer soon, I may end up busting the bottom out of the cabinet.
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:56 AM   #38
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sawzall might be the right tool here ... is equal to your hot wrench and will do just about anything.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:16 AM   #39
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Success!!!

Thanks to my new ESEE.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:19 AM   #40
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funfool, my girlfriend didn't want to open bust up the base more, but I did talk her into letting me cut a little bit. We aren't removing the pipe. We just need the cabinet moved to rip the flooring out, underneath.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:28 AM   #41
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There is not code for installing a floor covering----

Once that cabinet is out--get us a picture of the slab.
And the doorways to the surrounding rooms.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:17 AM   #42
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We got help yesterday. This guy helped clean up the kitchen, so the worst part's over.

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Old 06-11-2013, 05:13 PM   #43
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We've got a bunch of stuff in. Having geometry problems now.

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Old 06-13-2013, 01:14 AM   #44
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Old Wood Floor Sinking--URGENT NEED!--


Do me a grand favour for moi? do you have a 4 or 6 foot level ??

If you do first of all take that level and see where is the highest point and lowest point and keep the level at bubble centre you will see how much gap you have on floor then check the header underneath the door to see how much it shifted then do the upway like on either side of door to see how much it did move.

I have a feeling there is more than 20 mm differnce on 4 foot level.

Merci,
Marc

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