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Old 03-12-2014, 12:14 AM   #1
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Old House Flooring Installation Advice

Hi all,

I'm a long time lurker and now finally joined. I love browsing through here to find advice on my home projects.

I have a 1906 house and I'm getting ready to redo the main floor flooring. I've read so many different things on installing the subfloor / flooring that I really want to find out what is the best thing to do.

My living room and dining room have quite a bit of flex right now when being walked on. The joists are 2x8, 16 OC and 14' spans. Subfloor is 1x6 shiplap with 3/4" doug fir flooring (original flooring from 1906). The shiplap is perpendicular to the joists.

I'm looking to do two things with my new flooring job. Reduce the amount of noise transmitted to the basement and stiffen the floors. I've been going through the basement using 1/2" OSB ripped to 7.25" height and glueing / nailing to both sides of the joists to stiffen.

I plan on ripping out the old 3/4" fir flooring. I will then screw the existing shiplap to the joists to get rid of squeaks. Here is where I get confused:

- Can I install 6mm cork between shiplap and new subfloor?
- I'm thinking of using Advantech instead of plywood in 3/4"? Any reason to use plywood instead?
- I purchased Dansk Chester collection 1/2" engineered oak flooring. This can be floated, glued or stapled. I'm thinking of doing a glue / staple mix since the boards are 6" wide. Is this the best solution for a firm feeling floor?
- If I can't put 6mm cork between shiplap and new subfloor, can I use underneath engineered flooring and nail through? (I thought I read that nailing through cork was not preferred)
- Any other advice?




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Old 03-15-2014, 07:10 AM   #2
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I bought a house built in 1901, with slanting floors due to the house settling. I too had Douglas fir floorboards, but I actually had no subfloor! They were nailed directly to the 2x8 beams, approximately 15" span. I had no flexing. The 2x8's are full 2 inch by 8 inch, unlike modern 2x8's. Anyway I sistered boards ranging from 2x4 to 2x10 depending on where it was in the unevenness. Then I used Advantech for a subfloor. It's great stuff. Very stiff, basically waterproof. I glued and screwed it to my joists. The stiffness of the Advantech is mostly in the long dimension, so you should place them perpendicular to the joists. When the floor was open after I removed the old boards, I put Roxull Safe N Sound rock wool insulation in there. Among its virtues is it's completely fireproof, and moldproof. Soundproofing company dot com is a great resource for sound insulating products and advice. I used 1/2" unfinished engineered white oak 3" boards on it. I then used Fabulon CrystalTech II to finish it, which I am not entirely pleased with regarding durability. Anyway, there is no creaking, no sagging and a very solid floor. In retrospect, I wish I had used 2x12 all along, because then when I redid the ceiling in the floor beneath, I could have just attached the ceiling to the underside of the boards.


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Old 03-15-2014, 07:12 AM   #3
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I meant 15 foot not 15inch span.
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