New Minnesota homeowner & found rotten bath subfloor...HELP! - Page 5 - DIY Chatroom

leahjane10 · 02-28-2006, 09:35 PM

Bonus -

I just went and measured the distance...it's exactly 5". Here are a few pictures, though it seems to be tough to capture what I mean on film!

Leah

new-minnesota-homeowner-found-rotten-bath-subfloor-help-1.jpg

new-minnesota-homeowner-found-rotten-bath-subfloor-help-2.jpg

new-minnesota-homeowner-found-rotten-bath-subfloor-help-3.jpg

Bonus · 03-01-2006, 01:00 AM

Yeah, it is tough to get pics of these spots. The challenge here is to wind up with something to support your new subfloor with. This can be done several ways. you can screw and glue a piece of 2x4 or 6 to the joist that is under the wall, trying to support as much of it as possible with anything else under there that is structural (not plumbing!) so that you get enough surface sticking out from the wall to put your new ply on. ( You may have to cut the rough edge of the subfloor back a little further) Or you can clean out the stud cavity above (where the water supply and all that itchulation is) and then screw a support piece of plywood under the existing subfloor that in turn could support a new subfloor. (This stuff sure is hard to explain) It looks like you could even get a screw or two into the edge of the existing subfloor along the wall where you cut it out to help hold it up. Or some combination of the two.

Anybody else want to help? More ideas?

Tell me if that was totally unintelligble and I'll try my hand at a drawing, but no promises it'll be any clearer.

jml257psu · 03-02-2006, 08:50 PM

Ok, enough travelling for work, I guess my boss doesn't understand that I have a bathroom to remodel!

Ok, I finally had the chance to rip up the 2 layers of vinyl flooring and get a good look at the damage to the subfloor. It was as expected, rotten through to the joists near the corner (I could see a pipe!) and not rotten along the rest of the edge of the tub. I got down with my scraper to see how far the damage protrudes under the tub and it only seems like it's 2" or so. Hopefully that means I won't have to rip out the tub and shower at the gym for awhile! I am attempting to post the pics of the damage.

Thanks again for all of your help! I will also post some pics of my remodelled half bath (although I went with the less expensive Home Depot ceramic rather than something fancier).

Thanks again!
Jamie

justdon · 03-03-2006, 03:41 PM

Leah,
Glad your still at this project!!!
Wish my daughters your age were half as ambitious as you are!!!
In general I would NEVER put any low window in your shower stall, no matter how well it was sealed in. It just doesnt mix with water.
How about one or two portal opening windows "above" the tile line??? Was thinking of one but then thought how much light and in -out venting it would be with both (in NICE weather).
Brings up other subject. Whats your exhaust vent in this bath?? Looks like the window when new would pass code(here) (window or power vent). Did they close in the window and NOT vent the bath?? And does the vent go ALL the way outside. I put, in remodeled baths now a timer on the vent fan. Otherwise the fan is always on which leads to always burnt out etc. Where energy is high anyway, no use wasting, blowing heat out all day. And fan lasts 10 times longer. Just click it on for 2-3 minutes or while showering for steam and it "remembers" alot better than humans to click back off. just a slick trick. AND if your bath doesnt have a vent fan all the way outside and you are getting permits for this you will end up with one anyway!!!Before and after inspection. if not permitted, you enjoy the right way of doing it. But with opening hex portal windows may not be required. Just a thought.
Congrads on what you have done, your a great trooper in MY book!!!
HTH--d--

Wi mom · 03-12-2006, 11:02 PM

I've finally completed the 1/2" subfloor patch. Now I am on to the 5/8" layer. My bath is 5X8. Do I need to run the plywood in the opposite direction of the patch I have already put in (it was 5X3)?

I am putting in a Swanstone shower base and want to tile the shower walls and the floor. Do I out cement board over the entire 5X8 section or just the portion of the floor that is not under the shower base?

Thanks again guys!!

justdon · 03-18-2006, 01:12 PM

Wi Mom,
This is geting so confusing with three projects on an active thread. You may want to start your own thread.
I didnt quite understand what you were asking in your last one. I dont think the 5/8 plywood has to be a different dirrection, JUST staggered seams so one doesnt fall right over other below. Offset them 16 or 32" either way and lengthwise too.
Then you are putting down cement board on top of all that? And then what, I lost track, ceramic tile??? Putting it under shower, hmmm I am not sure of that one. I defer to other opinions on that, but I wouldnt see a problem with doing it either way, whichever comes out better for you and makes shower setting on the most even level base. I could be wrong on that part. Mostly have to envision what it will look like with cement board and then tile 'up to' it vs board under neath, tile on top. And if it alters any connections.
My 2 cents(pretax), --d--

sharisavage · 04-02-2006, 06:50 PM

Leah, you rock. I'm a novice remodeler (on my 2nd bathroom and the guys in this forum got me through the first one). Doesn't it feel great to do this yourself? Besides, guys at the hardware store dig it. You go girl!

redline · 04-02-2006, 08:13 PM

Leah, sounds like you are a good worker. Keep it up and in the end you will be satisified.

I would not recommend a window in a shower. You may want to put in a solar tube. It is a smaller version of a sky light.

Regarding the tile. You may also want to try a new style tile that is like the laminate wood floor that they make now that snap/click together. I do not believe that you have to have a 1.25" thick floor for this click together ceramic 'look' tile (ask the clerk at the store) because it is not real ceramic tile. When you visit your home improvement store next time just look for it near the laminate wood flooring. If you were going to install the real ceramic tile then the floor has to be rigid and not flex to keep the tiles from cracking and the grout joints from cracking/failing.

You may have been able to have the prior owner pay for the repair of this job. If the problem existed before you purchased the house and the prior owner just covered up the problem then they could be liable for the repairs. Was the floor in the bathroom new? If the floor in the bathroom was new and installed by the prior owner then the owner should have known about the problem and should have made the new buyer aware of the damage to the floor.

redline · 04-11-2006, 04:27 PM

Any update?

redline · 04-27-2006, 08:04 PM

Has the floor been put in yet?

KenTheHandyMan · 05-01-2006, 02:05 PM

I don't know what your status is now, but I'm proud of you so far.

msjay2u · 08-21-2006, 07:40 PM

Hi Leah,
I have to admire any female that can tackle this job. I would be kind of scared to cut the floor out because of the beams but my hats off to you..inspiration for me. Now my question is did you fix the floor and what does the finished product look like. I am interested in knowing.
Thanks and have a wonderul handy day!
Jay

redline · 11-15-2006, 08:45 PM

work in progress