New Minnesota homeowner & found rotten bath subfloor...HELP! - Page 3 - DIY Chatroom

Bonus · 02-04-2006, 12:35 AM

OK, so you've freed the tub from the plumbing, yes? And the tub is not screwed to the wall. So the only thing stopping you from pulling it out is the drywall on the wall behind the toilet and the door jamb on the other end. Remove the door jamb and cut enough of the drywall away behind the toilet so that you can roll the tub into the doorway, (it should fit through the door on it's side) then drag it into the corridor and throw it down the stairs. :D
I'm sure you're dealing with an enameled steel tub, you can cut them but it isn't easy or pleasant and if you merely cut it in half you still will have trouble getting it outta there. Way easier to do a little more drywall finishing later, which you're probably going to be doing anyway.

leahjane10 · 02-04-2006, 12:37 PM

I am unable to slide the tub out because the toilet's water shut off valve is in the way. Can I remove that easily somehow?

Bonus · 02-04-2006, 11:53 PM

You can take that out but it would require shutting off the water, cutting the pipe below the floor, capping it temporarily (so that you could have water elsewhere in the house) pulling the tub and then replacing it when the new tub is in. See if you can lift/roll the tub out over the w.c. supply even if it requires removing more drywall.

leahjane10 · 02-06-2006, 10:15 AM

My brother-in-law came over on Saturday and was able to move the tub (thankfully he lifts weights every day!).

After the tub was moved, I ripped out some sheetrock in the tub surround and discovered a window frame. Wooo-hooo! I am excited about this because I had wanted to add a window for light, but figured it would be more than I could tackle myself. I assume that it was covered up when a previous owner put siding on. I'd like to have the window there again. Someone recetly told me that having a window in the bath surround, even it's vinyl, is a terrible idea. What are your thoughts?

Here's a pic of what it looks like:

new-minnesota-homeowner-found-rotten-bath-subfloor-help-001.jpg

new-minnesota-homeowner-found-rotten-bath-subfloor-help-002.jpg

Bonus · 02-07-2006, 12:30 AM

If you were to get a professional tiler in there I would go for it, trying to seal such an item from constant driving rain (when the shower is running) is not a task for the faint of heart, and the potential for failure is great. I wouldn't do it with a vinyl enclosure at all. Just my opinion, you understand.
What's the exterior siding?
Did the rot extend beneath the tub? How does everything look under there?

R&D Tile · 02-07-2006, 07:29 AM

It not advisable but can be done, vinyl would be the best bet here, steam and humidity will ruin a wood sill window over time.

You should first get rid of the that insulation and install unfaced or paper backed batts and cut slits in it to breath, then there are 2 methods that can be used here, the first would be to install a vapor barrier over the studs, then 1/2" cementboard over the studs and tight up to the new window, then tape and thinset all the seams with a good modified thinset, next day paint on a waterproofing membrane such as Redgard [sold at HD] with backerboard tape around the window seams and out 8".

You can also waterproof the entire walls with a membrane such as Redgard or a sheet membrane such as Kerdi, there are others as well, if this is done, do not install the vapor barrier behind the walls, the window sill should also have a slight pitch into the shower.

Hope this helps.

Zero Punch · 02-08-2006, 11:19 AM

Well, you got the tub out now the chore of replacing it with new. I hope your going with fiberglass.
You could look at glass block windows if light is all your concerned with and not ventalation, they work best in wet areas and are easiest to waterproof.
R&D is right on his recomendations for tile backer board and membrane.

John

leahjane10 · 02-08-2006, 04:01 PM

The floor underneath the tub looks like it was wet in the past because it's darker in color than the subfloor in other parts of the bathroom (does that make sense?). However, it appears to be stable and is not "springy" at all. Also, it didn't smell of mold like other parts of the floor did when they were removed. Do you think I should replace it?

I have always liked glass block, and will definitely consider it. Is it hard to install?

Leah

P.S. CONTINUED thanks for all your responses!

leahjane10 · 02-08-2006, 04:02 PM

Oh, and fiberglass will be the material of my next bathtub for sure!

Zero Punch · 02-08-2006, 04:34 PM

The glass block units are no harder to install than any other type of window.

R&D Tile · 02-08-2006, 04:45 PM

You can order glass block windows already pre-made.

leahjane10 · 02-08-2006, 05:19 PM

Pre-made glass block windows? Sounds nifty to me! I'll look around on the net to see what styles are available (I'm girly like that). Window shop, if you will.

Back to "stupid-question from Leah" time. Regarding the subfloor: Do I need to use the same type of wood product to replace the damaged parts that I removed? I have to replace the subfloor section and also layer above that. BTW...both layers are 1/2". I thought subfloors were usually thicker(?).

Also, do I need to leave a small gap between edges to allow for expansion or does that only apply when laying the finished product (like pergo, etc.)?

Leah

Zero Punch · 02-08-2006, 06:54 PM

Leah, you could replace the subflooring with like or equivalent 3/4 and 1/4. I would stay with what you have 1/2 and 1/2. You'll find that most homes are built to FHA minimum standards which is I think 3/4in subfloor, plywood or OSB T&G. Don't hold me to that it's just observation. I haven't seen less than 3/4 in. ever, though those are nominal dimensions. I would glue and screw the first layer to the joists the second layer you should avoid the seams falling atop the bottom layer seams. Since you have removed the tub and the vanity you may have to remove 6 ins. preferably 8 ins. of the top layer where it went under them so you can avoid placing seams directly over one another. It's best to get it as tight as possible your plywood manufactures would only call for 1/32 spacing. On top of this I would use 1/4 hardie board or duraroc if you plan on ceramic. If you plan on a warm floor installation, (eletric heat coils) I would follow the manufactures specs reguarding installation requirements.
I hope you arn't planning on pergo or another laminate flooring for your bath.

Have fun window shopping!

John

R&D Tile · 02-08-2006, 07:05 PM

Exactly what do you have for a subfloor now and what do you plan on installing over it.:confused:

Bonus · 02-08-2006, 10:00 PM

If you're putting tile down you are going to need more plywood than 1". I'd go with minimum 1-1/4". This will lead to a transition detail at the door, but can be dealt with. Remember you'll have the extra 1/4" plus the thickness of tile and thinset and perhaps cement board if used. If you're going with vinyl flooring then 1" is ample.